Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Viktor&Rolf’s Monsieur is a modern gentleman. As ever, he’s a hybrid of classic intellectual and ravishing style icon.  Viktor&Rolf’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection was inspired by this gentleman at home – taking cues from luxurious interior design treatments and translating them to apparel. The enhanced shoulder structure of silhouettes gives subtle reference to Viktor&Rolf’s female Atomic Bomb Collection – in a masculine rendition.

Outerwear and suiting continue to be iconic staples in the Monsieur wardrobe. Suiting evolves for this gentleman with refined silk tuxedo jackets paired with nappa leather trousers – an unexpected edge to classical eveningwear.  Outerwear is rich offering a range set to olives, burgundy, burnt mauve and deep emerald greens. Pieces are composed of unconstructed overcoats in suri and alpaca wool, cotton nylon parkas sleek in fit, cashmere wool military trenches in olive and black framed with shaved beaver and jacket variations with unique shaved and printed shearling treatments. Knitwear is versatile and functional as lighter outerwear – a coral reversible zipper-front sweater in shearling and crepe wool is a highlight.

 

DSquared Catwalk Fashion School Milan FW2012

High School was the setting at the DSquared show and the model acted like little schoolboys, smoking on the runway and throwing paper planes at teacher. A retro classroom was set at the end of the runway. The models tried to behave like rebels, but the collection was far from that. Just DSquared-clothes: distressed, low-rise denim, fitted biker jackets and college-style shirts. But a great theme to play with. And there were actually some great outfits and garments, like the mohair & angora Fair Isle sweaters, a nice tweed car coat and some fitted suits.

Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

In Milan traditional men’s wear fabrics such as tweed, herringbone and plaids were dominating the fall-collections, and Giorgio Armani is no exception. The designer presented a masculine but soft-edged collection,  with knitted wool, stretchy fabrics, velvet,  corduroy and leather. Knitwear was also used as outerwear in double-breasted coats with patch pockets and short jackets with high, zippered necks.

Softness and comfort wove its way throughout the collection: fitted tweed or corduroy suit jackets had deconstructed shoulders, while anoraks were made from black velvet. Armani choose  a looser, pleated silhouette of trouserd that narrowed at the ankle. Plus he presented his version of the power suit, which exuded the arrogant confidence of the Roaring Eighties.

 

Etro Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Etro designer Kean Etro couldn’t get enough of feathers for his FW2012-collection. Feather-prints, real fathers, at shoes, vests, blazers and tailcoats. It gave all the formal and evening looks a fancy edge, but it didn’t lead to a strong collection. Of course there was the usual velvet, the fitted suit and the usual dark colors plus red and orange, which made the collection fit in the trend of romance & decadence.

Gucci Catwalk fashion Show Milan FW2012

Well it was very obvious that the Gucci-collection fw2012 is about romance and decadence. 19th century bohemian men played a major role in this mix of flower prints, velvets, jacquards and tapestry. The designer played with proportions putting big overcoats over chunky crew necks and cardigans over skinny trousers and riding boots. Army and navy-inspirations were also weaved into this collection.

Emporio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Giorgio Armani is expecting a cold winter next year. Wrapped up in the thickest, stiffest belted leather, hidden under fedoras and swaddled in scarves his male models were sent down the runway.

The looks seemed influenced by different part of the world; forming a mix between something American and European influences with some sort of Nomad touch.

Armani’s tailoring skills again were impeccable and his eye for detailing was visible in each one of his dark (not a color in sight) looks.

The small leather accents, the right kind of ties, the slick glasses and the perfect hats gave the collection it’s coolness. And those small pointed necklace pockets (which reminded us a bit of the ones in the latest Givenchy s/s2012 womenswear collection) might just be the hit of next season.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Again, powerdressing was the theme of a collection. And what a collection. Miuccia Prada said goodbye to all the cheerful bold colors and prints of last season and embraced the powerful men. To the press she described the collection as a riff on powerful men, and how fashion can telegraph authority, might or supremacy. Clothing is a tool of power and a way to express male vanity, she said. Yes, we knew that already.

Dressed in severe coats reminding of Eastern Bloc military dress, the models and actors Willem Dafoe, Tim Roth, Adrien Brody and Gary Oldman walked a massive, carpeted space. The first outfit set a military tone: a smart dark coat over a white turtleneck, slim pants and gleaming dress shoes. Belted coats in lightweight wool played a major part and they were often decorated with badges over the heart. Colors were of course a bit off beat, mustard, purple, grey and black – and the fabrics looked vintage.

Check out the video of the show below.

Salvatore Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

You don’t have to tell designer Massimiliano Giornetti anything about power dressing, he knows what he is doing at Ferragamo. The fall-collection was powerful in all it’s classic, elegant tailoring:  suits and coats were strong and sharp, the ingredients soft and often velvet-like. Tweeds, bold herringbone  and speckled wools for outerwear, with colored velvet and moiré silks for evening jackets. Footwear stood out, especially the two toned dress shoes.
The colors were a mix of rusts and berry tones often mixing together different shades on looks through to the accessories.

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Tomas Maier of Bottega Veneta likes experiencing with materials, colors and effects. Well, the lean pristine suits he sent out this morning with optical effects in geometric color blocking were sure new and daring. But the effect was not always working out well. Later on the collection took a more cool and rock ‘n roll turn with knits and outerwear, like biker jackets and coats with graphic black rubber details.

In a season of mixed materials, Tomas Maier lightly applied tonal accents and contrasts, like glistening patches that looked like plastic tape. Fabrics were rich and warm, yet ultra light. Flocked velvet dripped from the V-neck of a black cashmere sweater; black cashmere-velvet pads capped the shoulders of short jackets and rubber details gave wool coats an urban touch.

Burberry Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

For his fall 2012 Burberry menswear-collection Christopher Baily tried to mix the British City with the British Country-style. That led into a dapper gentleman in a tailored suit, an umbrella with a hand painted handle and a warm, sometimes bulky outdoor coat.  The overall result was polite and charming, traditional and familiar. But sometimes also a bit dull and predictable.

Form-fitting tailored suits played the major role in this collection, some of which came in plum, olive or teal velvet — and others made from herringbone or tweed wool. For a more formal feel, Bailey put velvet collars onto tweed trenches and topcoats. The outdoor-feeling was given by all those typical outdoorsy sports-gear like fishing vests, quilted or not, shooting jackets in leather or suede, chunky sweaters and cardigans.Luckily the polka dot ties and shirts, appliqué fox heads on knits and leather gloves with punkish gold studs gave that typical Burberry edge to the clothes. It’s all in the details eventually.

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