Hermes Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

January 23, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Paris

Maybe the looks Véronique Nichanian sent down the runway weren’t the best showpieces. The show felt a bit tame a perhaps mist some spectacle or some extravagant jaw-dropping designs.

Then again, when it comes to real life wearability this Hermès collection will get the highest scores. There was about anything any man could possibly need for his winter wardrobe. Slick suits, check. Long jackets, check. Woolen sweaters, check. Tight turtle necks, check. And of course it wouldn’t be a Hermès winter collection without some solid leather pieces like a jacket, trenchcoat, pair of trousers and even a croc leather shirt.

This all presented in a color palette changing from green tot burgundy and from blue to black made up for a pretty solid fall/winter 2012/2013 clothing range.

Paul Smith Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

January 22, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris

Bearded shippers, rock stars, college boys and sportsmen all appeared from Paul Smith’s backdrops of waves. Though the designer opted for a nautical theme, the title was Portobello-on-Sea, much more could be found in this collection.

The sportive elements were in the grey sweaters with the neon details, the shiny jackets/sweaters with the busy prints on them and the body warmers. A touch of rock ‘n roll was added with high black boots, long hair, long coats and classic sunglasses. The college kid could look great in those woolen blue suit jackets and fully buttoned blouses.

A bright deep see print, which appeared on a few pants seemed inappropriate for any of those man types. Yet it did add up to the sea spirited feeling Smith tried to convey.

 

Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

January 22, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris

After days of strict, streamlined and conservative menswear the boyish uniform of Raf Simons felt a bit refershing, although it’s kind of conservative too. To the press he said he’d felt like he wanted to change something with the idea of men’s clothes. He’d wanted to bring more energy, more excitement. Odd were the colored locks of hair hanging down the back of shirts, jackets and coats. Once again, Simons played with men’s dressing conventions with suit pants at the knee and styling shirts as outerwear over other shirts. The main statement was oversized tailoring: suit jackets and chunky overcoats.  Simons dared to use bold colors too. Chunky waffle-knit sweaters came in mustard yellow, lime green and cobalt blue. There was definitely a street feel in this collection.

Walter van Beirendonck Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

January 22, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris

That was sa quite disturbing mask the models were wearing at the Walter van Beirendonck-show, especially when you realize the models underneath the white skintone mask were black…. But those confronting themes are familiar when it comes to the Belgian designer. He’s not afraid of some discussion. His show  started out with well-crafted, sartorial looks in bold colors and plaids, which gave way to baggy streetwear, including mohair sweaters.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

January 21, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Paris

Junya Watanabe is fascinated by all American work wear, and it’s not different with his new fw2012 collection. This time he focused  farmers, with the loose fitting jeans, the plaid shirts and leather suspenders. There were also (denim) suits with leather elbow patches and patches of leather and pleads.

Not really the most exciting collection of this week, but surely attractive to some men

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

January 21, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Paris

Riccardo Tisci’s fall winter 2012 collection focused again at his signature clothes: sweatshirts, T-shirts, leggings and kilts. And again prominent prints and graphic elements, like stars and stripes.

The tailoring was black and red and chic. The designer also played with trompe-l’oeil layers, putting pea coat-like vests over leather jackets or wool topcoats. And the show ended with sparkles. The tops of white shirts twinkled with crystals, while black enamel stars came out over the shoulders of black sweaters.

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

January 21, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Paris

Galliano’s models seemed to have walked straight out of the glamour days of the past. They looked elegant and sophisticated with looks in their eyes as if they were death serious. Even though they wore patent leather jackets, fur coats and shiny gold tops; they kept their poker faces on throughout their walks.

Here too, it seemed pants are getting looser, whilst jackets are getting more and more tailored. After today we will definitely put those waist belts on our Menswear Musthave List. Yet we’re still in doubt if that fur T-shirt should end up there as well…

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

January 20, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris

No darkness and monk-like dressing at Rick Owens for fall 2012. His collection looked quite sharp, also chic and masculine. The signature look was a slim, dropcrotch pant in black with a white shirt or turtleneck. Of course there was some leather too, like his signature black jacket, but that even had a sartorial cut.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

January 20, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris

At least there is one designer who tries to mix humor and menswear to an elegant collection. Dries van Noten felt like doing something that would make people smile, and so he did. He mixed psychedelic prints with his signature menswear that had a military edge. The military coats, stovepipe trousers and sweaters came along well with the naive prints. The skinny jeans and shoes looked cool.

Also compliments to Dutch artists Gijs Frieling and Job Wouters who realized a mural as a backdrop during the show, featuring the same architectural and typographic motifs.

 

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

January 20, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Paris

Young, old, dark, white, red haired, grey, bold, long haired, shaves bearded; the models at Yohji Yamamoto were as diverse as can be. The clothes however were scaled down a bit from what we’ve seen before.

The models looked neat in their duo colored looks. Details like a poncho wrapped around their shoulders, colorful ties popping out from under a suit jacket and diverse hats giving them an extra elegant touch.

Coats played a central role in Yohji’s fall collection appearing in many forms, from militaristic, to tuxedo-ish, and from an asymmetric black version to a woolen red example with fur on the elbows(!?). Eater you love it or hat it, but at least Yohji provided more than enough options.

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