Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

‘Nostalgia for the present’ was the theme of the Nina Ricci collection. It was about young girls playing dress-up in their mother’s and grandmother’s clothes, as Peter Copping told the press. This translated through tops with too long sleeves, extra large skirts and some of the dresses which were one size too big.

It made the models look like dolls. Dolls dressed in chic, but scruffy designs. Like slipdresses patched together with tweed and lace. Or somewhat destroyed jackets with fringes all over.

Though most of the looks were very ladylike, we also got a bit of a sporty vibe. Especially one of the last outfits, a sheer houndtooth skirt and jacket had sporty chic written all over it.

In this collection too it was all about mixing different materials, patchwork really. Wool and fur, lace and tweed, leather and satin, for the ultimate luxury looks with a bit of an edge.

 

 

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

The models at Ann Demeulemeester’s show wore a wild crown of hair, blades and black feathers. They had long leather gloves on their arms and black leather pants that melted into long boots. There was lots of black leather and velvet, but more inbteresting was the inky, midnight blue color. The collection had powerful outerwear and dark elegant dresses — worked in variations and fabrics rich with dimension. Tailored jackets and trenches came cut up into asymmetrical folds with sculpted collars. Long, lean dresses were simple aside from a single drape at the neckline or back. This was surely a tough, graceful women.

Mugler Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

At Mugler, the creative director Nicola Formichetti and designer Sébastien Peigné,  linked directly to Thierry Mugler. Their point of reference was the designer’s 1997 “insects” couture collection, with supermodels in patent leather and bug-eyed masks. It resulted in a subtle translation  like in the pattern of a black and white dress with super-sized shoulders and glossy black croc appliqués on a sheer form-fitting dress.

Gareth Pugh Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

The black confetti surely gave the show of Gareth Pugh a moody edge. Not that he needed this, since his collections always reflect a dark, mysterious mood. Somehow Pugh let go of his fetish looks and toned things down. There was lots of leather, fur and a contrast of volume. Appealing were the  fuzzy black fur coat that opened the show plus the sharp-shouldered dresses with a leather bodice and a full fur skirt. Luckily Gareth Pugh didn’t forget to put some drama ans exaggeration in his presentation, that’s what a show also is about.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Dries van Noten delivered another piece of print-art yesterday with his fall 2012 collection. It was innovative, colorful, ultra-chic and real. The Belgian designer was inspired by historical Chinese, Korean and Japanese costumes he saw at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. He photographed the garments for large scale prints which he cut into various pieces to create graphic blocks. So the side of a beautiful patterned oriental coat became the decorative motif for a skirt etc. The collection was ultra elegant with that typical Van Noten menswear touch which made it wearable and cosmopolitan.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

The fall-collection of Roberto Cavalli is, well, a classic Cavalli: glamorous and strong, with lots of leather and fur. It started with maxi fur ballgown skirts with sequin luxe T-shirts and feathered baseball caps all in one look. Then came elbow-length gloves and little puffy skirts on little halter dresses strewn with sequins and beads and more baseball caps to go with it all. It had a more grunge feeling then last season. The biggest surprise however, was Naomi Campbell who closed the show.

 

Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

Giorgio Armani called his fall-collection ‘Easy Chic’. The refined tailoring stood for chic, the flat shoes for ease. The clothes pointed to menswear, but were designed with a light hand. Every outfit was topped off by a fedora, and vibrant orange and fuchsia ran throughout. Armani opened with sleek gray combinations and suits with tops in solid colors or graphic prints. He then moved to light pieces over  man-tailored shorts. Skirts were cut for ease of movement. The mix of all kinds of  textures and weights kept it interesting.

Dsquared Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

It’s the dream of any teenage girl; going to her prom in a designer dress. A prom dress designed by Dean and Dan from Dsquared might not be her first option, but the duo sure proved they know how to stage a prom show, including disco balls and a live band.

Their high school prom designs were pretty much everyday clothes. Like cropped trousers combined with leather jackets. Or croc leather pencil skirts worn with mohair sweaters. And those camel colored pants mixed with a denim jacket. Or that toggle coat with leopard collar worn with a check shirt and tight jeans.

Like always at Dsquared the styling was playful and casual. Bright shades of green, pink, purple and yellow alternated each other in goofy streetwise looks topped off by eye-catching accessories.

Models had big sixties hair, pointed glasses, chunky necklaces, funky (odd-fitting) hats and big brooches. Some of them even smoked on the runway, as if to emphasize the rebellion/youthful aspect of the show and the collection.

The show was closed by a couple of ballgowns, but even those weren’t all too serious. But never mind if their outfits matched with the dresscode or not; never a dull moment with these Dsquared high school girls

 

 

 

Aquilano & Rimondi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

The Aquilan & Rimondi show had a royal vibe. Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi’s inspiration was a mix  of Marie Antoinette and the holy women  in Italian Baroque paintings. That led to dresses buttoned up to the chin revealing a bare back view, Maltese cross patterns, a minimalist and strict silhouette, lots of dark red, purple, midnight blue and black. The designers were at their most convincing when they gave that Gothic vein free rein.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

It seemed a never ending collection that Dolce & Gabbana sent out this afternoon. A collection that captured Italy’s love for drama and opera. Pavarotti was on the soundtrack singing O sole mio and out came the models dressed in baroque black velvet and gold brocade, covered with dramatic capes, dresses embroidered with images of painted old theater-ceilings. Even the earrings looked like little cherubs and shoes reminded of theater furniture and decorations.

The press release said the starting-point was the tradition of Sicilian Baroque, which evolved in volumes and processes, experimenting in new cuts and decorations: golden embroideries that recall Baroque mirrors and frames or embroideries made of small points inspired by dining room tapestries; prints of cherubs and angels that appear to have come out of a painting.

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