Fashionclash 2012 Impression #3

FASHIONCLASH 2012 DAY 3 from Team Peter Stigter on Vimeo.

Miu Miu Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

It’s been a while since Miucca Prada wove a common thread between her two lines, Miu Miu and Prada. But pantsuits are the only thing exciting to her after so many years of skirts and dresses, she explained to the press. And her pantsuits are still not ordinary. The Miu Miu clothes looked mannish and leisurely in a retro way. Jackets and matching ankle-length pants had roomy cuts, and were worn with buttoned-up blouses, scarves and ruffled, wide ties, all done in clashing patterns and color combinations.

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

All aboard for the 10 o’clock LV train!

If you thought a Louis Vuitton show couldn’t get better after last seasons merry go round, you’re mistaken. This morning Marc Jacobs topped that performance off by sending out an enormous train on his Paris catwalk. By doing so he made sure – combined with yesterday’s Chanel crystals– Paris Fashion Week (and actually a whole fashion season) ended quite spectacular.

Jacobs even stepped away from his no celebs policy and invited stars like Catherine Deneuve and Sarah Jessica Parker to watch his show, held in a train station.

As the smoke of the train dissapeared elegant women accompanied by porters who carried their many bags stepped out of the Louis Vuitton train, which seemed to come straight from another era. They wore woolen a-line coats over skirts, over pants. The new type or layering already presented to us at Chanel yesterday. They looked extremely tall (thanks to a little help from Stephen Jones). The new silhouette made them look extra feminine. And shiny embroideries combined with kaleidoscopic applications turned otherwise simple outfits into jaw dropping pieces.

It was not the most modern collection, but it had the right kind of classic touch for todays Louis Vuitton women. And just in case after this show you haven’t had enough yet of the French fashion brand you can visit the exhibition Louis Vuitton – Marc Jacobs (opening tonight) and dig a little further into the Louis Vuitton history.

Alexander McQueen Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Futurism with softness, looking forward in a positive way. That was what designer Sarah Burton had in mind by creating her fall collection for Alexander McQueen. Burton presented it in a collection that was about lightness wit a core of power: futuristic princesses in “exploded” silhouettes in pristine white or enormous froths of pink feathers, their faces behind sleek visors. This was a story like only the McQueen house can tell and present, it left the commercial collection in the showroom. But that collection will for sure have connections with the show-pieces – same colors, same perfection and elegance.

 

Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Folk seemed to be the theme of the Valentino-collection, but we couldn’t tell that from the clothes. Or is must have been the dresses with native motifs that reminded of Greece, Russia or the Orient. But the black leather that opened the show, told a different story.  All in all it was a smooth, feminine collection with the familiar dresses and jumpsuits, softened with macramé seams and passementerie details.

The focus was at day-wear  with smart-looking frog-closure coats and Aran sweaters dotted here and there with crystals. For evening there were long, loose-fitting shorts in black leather with a tunic and an embroidered velvet vest—black tie, but with a modern touch.

Chanel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Besides the impressive front row (which today featured stars like Katy Perry, Kanye West, Alicia Keys, Elisa Sednaoui and Poppy Delevingne) the second best thing about a Chanel fashion show is it’s backdrop. This morning enormous translucent amethyst crystals filled the Grand Palais show area. They formed the inspiration for modern 3D pieces, like coats and dresses with multifaceted bodices in multiple shades. And actually the crystals were visible in every little part of the show. From the models crystal heels, to their shiny velvet pants, up to their shimmering jackets, enormous brooches, luxurious necklaces and their crystallized brows. Besides his classical, usual suspects (tweed coats and twinsets) Karl Lagerfeld added some modern items, like cigarette pants, leggings and multicolored graphic knitted sweaters (we even spotted a knit hoodie!). They made the collection feel younger and fresher than before. The extremely talented designer even proved you can never be too young for Chanel by sending a little boy out on the runway sporting a quilted Chanel bag (yet another Chanel highlight).

 

 

 

 

 

Chanel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Yves St. Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

It was the second time this season we had to say goodbye to a talented designer. More than a week after Raf Simons left in tears, it was now Stefano Pilati’s turn to present his last collection for Yves St. Laurent. After seven years he definitely left the fashion stage. A place some people think he should have left much earlier since his collections were not always well received. despite all the critic, it was thanks to Pilati that the house of YSL made profit after years in the red.

Pilati’s last collection was one of dark sensuality, something he presented before. The models looked perfectly glamorous and they were dressed in a style of aggressive femininity, thin black silhouettes, cinched waists and lots of leather. Jackets had strong shoulders, pants and skirts were lean and sleek. More intimidating were the dresses in colored mesh, like the harness of a knight.

 

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

The Givenchy-collection was built on strength and confidence, with elements of equestrian motifs from the Seventies. Riccardo Tisci’s signature tailoring came first with variations on riding jackets done in combinations of pony hair, fur and leather that were placed on precise panels. More elaborate outerwear showed Tisci’s leather and fur workmanship, with graphic, diagonal patches of red, black and brown fur spliced on a jacket.
In the end the designer brought some lingerie-like dresses, soft and feminine with their lace-appliquéd, camisole-like tops and pleated skirts.

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Inspired by drawings of Aubrey Beardsley (an influential illustrator and writer in the late 19th century) Bill Gaytten came up with luxurious ensembles for English women. His models were all dressed up in asymmetrical capes and dresses with enormous collars, large gloves and feather fascinators as their accessories. Especially the delicate designs in pleated satin and embroidered sheer fabrics appeared graceful. Done in shades of olive green, cinnamon, light mint and ruby red they seemed perfect for winter. And even though you could see every bit of the models’ bodies through them it still made the girls look classy.

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