Tommy Hilfiger Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Tommy Hilfiger and his team brushed up two classic themes – safari and nautical – and made it into an upbeat and interesting collection. It was big and lively, with new  interpretations of sailcloth, stripes, and fisherman knits, among other staples of the seafaring look. The oversized red, white, and blue suit jackets, slouchy patchwork denim, and swinging tent dresses boasting sexy open backs looked refreshing and good. And many of the pieces benefited from unexpected finishes, such as the boxy navy-striped sailor’s tee, with a slick, stiff coating of wax. Yet for all the emphasis on the American palette, there were a great deal of washed-out sandy tones, too. They looked crisp and clean, though not obviously safari-esque, on cable knits and summery leathers.

Lacoste Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

It was tennis that inspired Felipe Oliveira Baptista for his ss2013 collection for Lacoste. He repeated an abstract version of rackets, balls, an umpire’s chair, and a pattern of folded polos as a print on shirts, pants, and parkas. The color palette matched perfectly: cobalt blue and  orange intensified the shades of summer. Baptista also tweaked the house’s more classic looks, cutting polo shirtdresses looser and working them in bold color blocks and mesh. The clear plastic jackets over cropped tops and miniskirts were especially fun, as was the sexy black leather minidress embossed with alligators.

Jason Wu Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The models that wore Jason Wu’s new ss2013 collection could have walked out of a Helmut Newton-picture. And the photographer was indeed one of Wu’s inspirations for this collection. So that means lots of leather and lace and sexy clothes, nude and black with leather harnesses, black net veils and deep red lipstick.

A point d’esprit bra ­— Wu collaborated with La Perla on the innerwear pieces — topped a short flounced leather skirt with laser-cut embroidery; a sleeveless white blouse with black lace inserts went with leather shorts. Wu softened the look a bit with lace blouses and cigarette trousers, and sheer and severe dresses.

Zac Posen Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

That was quite an impressive lineup of models at Zac Posen, Naomi Campbell, Angela Lindvall, Karolina Kurkova and even Erin o’Connor were present. And the supermodels weren’t the only thing that looked vintage, the music and the clothes both had a retro vibe. Skirtsuits breathed a forties vibe, wide leg satin pants  and a jumpsuit reminded us of Studio 54 era.  Most of the designer’s attention was focused on gowns, timeless is good for red carpet occasions. And so does color, like ivory, scarlet-red and mint-green.

Victoria Beckham Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

It seems Victoria Beckham has decided she wanted to to advance her collection. She accomplished this smartly for spring, most notably by adding chic, tailored separates. From a minimalist baseline, she worked interesting details into coats and jackets, slim pants and crisp shirts, the perfect ease of their combinations showing the hand of Beckham’s new stylist, Joe McKenna.
Yet Beckham still loves a great dress. She also incorporated feminine touches via lingerie details — bra tops and straps peeking out from under dresses — and various types of lace.

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The glow in the dark-effect on the ivory clothes of Alexander Wang was a cool ending to his ss2013 presentation. The impression left after a very fast show was one of sharp, minimalist sport. There were boxy “hockey jerseys” worn over tailored shorts — skinny and Bermuda styles — and some of the models wore lacquered porcelain helmets. Wang rarely strayed from black and white, and when he did, it was a few notes of beige leather and gray. The silhouette was  spare and crisp, in stark cotton and exotics, such as snakeskin.

Backstage at Tony Cohen AFW SS2013

It was a smooth sailing operation backstage at Tony Cohen.

Backstage at Allan Vos & Nata Ryzh AFW SS2013

There is always a lot to see  backstage, hairdressers and their sprays and brushes, make-up artists with their lipstick and pencils. And the models, waiting patiently as always.

Tony Cohen Amsterdam Catwalk Fashion Show SS2013

Tony Cohen’s show was a 24/7 adventure. As the sun came up his first model came up wearing an orange shaded ensemble, including a pleated cotton maxi skirt and a leather biker jacket. After a few more looks in earthy tones, the color palette changed into nude, grey and later on black and white. Then Tony introduced a series of the brightest neon dresses, which gracefully moved at the pace of the models’ walk. After a short pause it was time for the evening wear to shine. As a full moon shined on the runway models appeared sporting glittery, asymmetrical pieces for a night out in style. Flared pants were combined with 70’s wedge shoes. Duo colored draped dresses, like we saw last season at Tony Cohen, made the models look elegant and party proof. Long evening dresses were vamped up by airy trains following the models in the air, throughout the night.

Backstage Bas Kosters AFW SS2013

 

Take a look backstage at the preparations for the Bas Kosters catwalkshow, which was all about LOVE.

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