Etro Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Today Etro started with a same Eastern inspired vibe Miuccia Prada had ended her show with yesterday. At Etro too we spotted kimono like designs, antisymmetric dresses, wide sleeves, attention grabbing belts and Japanese floral prints. No Geisha shoes (and socks!) here, but everything else with a Eastern feeling was part of the Etro spring/summer 2013 story.

The show maybe started off light; pretty soon designs turned colorful and exotic covered in cheerful Eastern flowers. And Etro’s signature paisley print maybe disappeared a bit to the background, we were presented with these gorgeous floral prints in return.

There were not so many every day wear looks and it might take a while before we hit the office judoka style. Yet every single one of the models at Etro looked glamorous and stunning. Combined with a slick hairstyle, eye-catching earrings and large clutches the designs made up for some gorgeous geisha’s everyone will want to be in 2013, at least for one night.

Moschino Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Regarding the round helmets, short A-line shifts and military buttons, Moschino went for Sixties Pop.  It started with graphic black-and-white worked in bold contrast on piped dresses and suits, cropped jackets, mini skirts and a little tank jumper.
There were jail-stripes and then, once color moved in with orange and blue, cabana stripes. The house’s signature hearts and flowers were also present.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Toughness and the poetic part. That was where Prada’s collection for ss2013 was all about. To WWD she explained that she wanted to mix these two together, ‘because this is mainly what wiomen have to deal with in reality. The clothes are the expression of this impossible dream’.

The clothes were neither overtly romantic nor wistful, the shapes almost severe.  The first look was a short black dress emblazoned with an off-center panel decorated with two white long  flowers.  Then followed a parade of similarly crafted suits, dresses, jackets over knee shorts, their printed and appliquéd flowers providing a sweet touch to the severe shapes. You could see references to traditional Japanese kimonos, hakamas and footwear, as well as hints of lingerie. There was also some color: dark green, navy, splashes of red, and pastels.

 

Emporio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show SS2013 Milan

For anything light, classy and feminine Giorgio Armani is your go to guy next year. The designer’s spring/summer looks breathed one hundred percent sophistication and softness to the max. Dressed in shades ranging from nude and natural and pastel models looked innocent and ladylike at the same time. Besides a touch of metallic gave the collection a welcome edge. Materials layered on top of each other gave the looks a nice and rich feeling, while the loose fit of the designs added a bit of effortlessness. Some tops and skirts maybe resembled pieces of origami; folded asymmetrical creations never looked this cool. A basket-like braided pastel shaded jacket worn with a graphical printed pair of silky shorts made up for the ultimate show stopping look of this spring collection. It beautifully illustrated mixing unexpected materials and light shades can look surprisingly fresh and natural. We like!

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show SS2013 Milan

It was a flamboyant, glamorous collection Frida Giannini sent out for Gucci. She was inspired by Richard Avedon and style-icons like Marella Agnelli, Talitha Getty and Gloria Vanderbilt. The colors were vibrant, the silhouette lean and tailored with bold, large scale ruffles. Giannini introduced a new ‘pajama’: a tunic over matching fluid pants. She showed it sometimes with abundant, tiered ruffles running down the sleeves, sometimes with cutout backs. The unfussy femininity made for a  bridge between sportswear and a suit. Giannini diversified a bit with a python jacquard and a giant sea anemone print.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Francisco Costa closed New York fashion week with a collection that had a strong sexual vibe. He opened with a black satin conical bustier dress, the model’s belle poitrine outlined in silver. All signs pointed to the bust as this collection’s erogenous zone. But Costa didn’t ignore the waist or the legs, either. Peplums played a starring role, and narrow belts accented most of the looks.
Costa also played with fabric, adding a white lining to the black mesh he used for a skirtsuit which produced a vibrating moiré effect.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Ralp Lauren was inspired by far away exotic places, this time Spain or Latin America. Matador suits, serapes, ruffles, fringe—they all got the Lauren treatment.

Playing with black, white, red, and turquoise he started with soft tailoring in suede, some of which was accented with tooled leather details. Shawls and ponchos turned up in various forms, and dresses and skirts were hand-crocheted. Scarves knotted at the neck, glass bead necklaces, and studded leather mailbags completed the vivid picture.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Marc Jacobs took fashion into another direction. Again. But he still finds a covered girl sexy, so that opinion didn’t change. The result for his ss2013 collection: suits with below-the-knee skirts worn low on the hips, bare midriffs and long skirts and dresses. Many of the outfits came in wide vertical stripes — black, maroon, taupe — with matching purses and  little shoes with low heels.  The models’ hair was ratted at the crown and pulled into a low ponytail.

The show was literally eyepopping and a play with optical illusions, also 1960 Swinging London revisited. The message for summer 2013 was hard, young and graphic. The geometric elements were everywhere: zigzag op-art patterns or harlequin effects; shoes with checkered heels.

Herve Leger Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The collection Max Azria designed for Herve Leger was inspired by the quilts of Gee’s Bend, a rural community in Alabama whose women have developed a distinct style of traditional patchworking over the past two centuries. The influence gave the collection an extra dimension seen in geometric patterns and passementerie appliqué details. Versions came flared at the hemline or jazzed up with interlocking chains, a fishnetlike overlay and leather harnesses.

Philip Lim Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Phillip Lim’s explained in his shownotes that he had been exploring “cut-up,” a Dada literary technique later popularized by William Burroughs and then appropriated by musicians such as David Bowie and Radiohead.  Cut-up is another word for nonlinearity. In fashion Cut-up could also mean mix ‘n’ match. Like Philip Lim did.
Take his interpretation of sheers. One ofe the main trends for ss2013 is see-through clothes which is not an easy concept to sell. But Lim, using obscuring plaid or woodland scene appliqués, made the look modest enough to be convincing. The silk sheers were among the standout pieces as were the patchwork denim, shredded khakis and his printed, corded silk biker jackets.

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