Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2018

Raf Simons marked his first year at Calvin Klein by filling the American Stock Exchange building with a silo’s worth of popcorn, not for people to eat but to wade through and sit in, for his fall show. This collection was about America.

The collection felt loaded with dark symbolism. With Wile E. Coyote and Road Runner sweaters, sinister but cozy homespun knitted ski hoods, Warhol silver foiled aprons, and prairie dresses done in subversive sheers or with cutouts at the breast. There was an abundance of oversized tailoring, ski sweaters, a leopard coat and wispy silk dresses printed to mimic classic American quilting patterns.

SiesMarjan Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2018

Sander Lak drew his audience during his show into a dream world of light and color that morphed from one tone to another.The room was bathed in blue, pink, purple and red lights that intensified the collection’s unusual palette — teal, sage green, brown and ombréd peach and ice blue, red and dusky blue. It looked beautiful, upbeat and very feminine.
Lak made everything look and feel soft — the (degradee) colors, the fabrics, the shapes. The hues melted into each other. Silhouettes came in fluid satin drapes and swirls, and furs — real and faux — added plush texture. The clothes don’t fall in line with any trend. Here, the looks had something in common with draped modern dance dresses cut with lots of movement. A spare jumpsuit topped with a fur stole would have qualified as minimal if not for its bell sleeves and bell-bottom legs. Shift dresses wrapped in tulle around the shoulders were pretty, interesting but not too out there, and there were lots of great coats — teddy bear furs and a holographic trench.

Victoria Beckham Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2018

Victoria Beckham’s collection have an adult, modernist sensibility and the designer has a lot to offer in the world of modest, minimalist-based clothes that aren’t prudish or boring.

He fall-show proved that again. The rustic, sort of English flavor of slate and mossy tailored coats with big belts that opened the show befitted Beckham’s British background. Stirrup pants and strangely appealing square-toe flats bisected by a long strap that jutted out over the arch of the foot formed the foundation of a strong coat story that continued throughout the 25-look lineup.

There was a leopard print chenille jacquard trench as well as a padded navy trench that was sporty but elegant. Actually, it’s a good way to summarize collection’s strengths. Colors were rich — deep green, brown, sapphire blue. Nothing was casual, but there was a cool relaxation to the attitude.

Claes Iversen Couture Fashion Show SS2018

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Individuals by Amfi 2018 Catwalk Fashion Show, GEN24

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Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear FW2018

Olivier Rousteing – Balmain’s designer – reinforced everything the brand is known for, revisiting house classics like the short jacket, the tight pants, the military jacket and the marinière in a torrent of metallic, glittery embellishments. The direction was echoed in the women’s looks, which were hooked on signature sexy, thigh-skimming dresses.
Sticking to his skinny, square-shoulder silhouette, military — one of the season’s key trends — was a major theme, but more for the embellishments than a utilitarian mood, with plays on pockets, zips and lacing on a run of khaki green bombers and bikers.

Vetements Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear FW2018

Demna Gvasalia, the designer of Vetements, went back to his designer roots and to the [Martin] Margiela approach.He wanted to shows his gratitude towards the label where he learned a lot of his designer skills and ways of breaking the rules.
He did it his own way with his signature mash-up of signs and prints, thrift-store sportswear collages and Eastern European peasant styling, with silhouettes built from piled-up oversized shirts in a jumble of prints and headscarves.
But the collection also had a softer, chicer side to it. His idea of turning oversized jackets around to expose the tags was very Margiela-esque, as were the tribal tattoo T-shirts and crumpled suits that looked as though they’d been picked off the bedroom floor.
Remixing his favorite things from his own youth, the designer added Marilyn Manson T-shirts, cut up his favorite T-shirts to create quirky assemblages of graphic messages and included a hookup with Nineties club-kid sneaker brand Swear. The customized denim with hand doodles and kids’ stickers added a playful, more joyful mood to the collection.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear FW2018

Rick Owens translated his anger in his fall win ter 2018 collection. He experienced some frustrations lately, he told WWD. He had run up against technical limitations related to his exhibition in Milan, and to some special effects planned for his fall 2018 men’s show, leaving him two options: either push hard to get things done right or tame one’s ideas in the land of red tape. It’s a conundrum that extends to the wider socio-ecological-political climate, he argued.
He unleashed his wrath working within his own framework, mixing grand sartorial gestures with a military-athletic vibe. A lot of the clothes looked as if they had been mutilated, with aggressive cutouts on elongated tunics that allowed for peek-a-boo moments on the body, and asymmetric skirts that looked like they’d been crafted from slashed up shorts.

Conversely, a run of capes had their armholes sewn shut, the arms liberated only through slits at the front. They added some chic drama.
The collection had a great sculptural quality to it, applied to everything he touched including the boots and sneakers with platform molded soles, which added to the brutality of the ensemble. Owens also He reworked shapes from past seasons.

Dior Homme Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear FW2018

Designer Kris Van Assche decided to take Dior Homme back to its roots in sharp tailoring. In fact, he stretched back to the founder’s defining New Look of 1947 for women — hinged on that wasp-waisted jacket known as the Bar — for his fall collection. He wasn’t shy about the nipped midsection, demarcating the horizontal seam cut into the sides of some jackets with white piping.
They looked handsome rather than feminine, vaguely recalling the neatness of military uniforms, though the designer said backstage he was careful to avoid that reference. As the show progressed Van Assche loosened things up, blending in Nineties sportswear hinged on tribal tattoo prints, wide-legged jeans and layers of striped knits. Untied laces, on dress shoes and canvas sneakers alike, also telegraphed that point.

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear FW2018

British designer Kim Jones staged his final men’s show for the French luxury brand Louis Vuitton after seven years at the helm. He marked the event by inviting two friends, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss, to take turns on the catwalk. The designer delivered his trademark mix of luxurious tailoring and upscale streetwear in a collection titled “Overview” — a reference to the aerial images of Kenya that formed the basis for most of the prints.

This was no safari, though. Jones homed in on otherworldly landscapes of lava, craters and stalagmites, which he used as the basis of his ashy palette of mineral tones and a variety of glazed and metallic effects, down to the titanium trunk strapped to one model’s back.

His band of explorers wore outfits including a glossy burgundy aviator jacket paired with glazed monogram denim pants, or a silver herringbone coat over a metallic silk flight suit.

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