Blugirl Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Milan FW2013

Alexa Chung was the muse for Anna Molinari’s Blugirl collection, the younger line of Blumarine. The British ‘It’ girl sees fashion in a cool and youthful way, and the first few schoolgirl looks made that point. Leopard-patterned furry coats added a rebel touch.

 

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Milan FW2013

Roomy, bathrobelike toppers in thick fabrics were the key-items of Max Mara’s collection, along with loose pants that fell over brown-and-mustard sneakers. The Max Mara design team took a little inspiration from Bauhaus and stuck to a basic palette of camel, gray, black and dark blue, keeping the focus on shapes, and outerwear. Rounded shoulders were sometimes accentuated with leather patches.

 

No 21 Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Milan FW2013

Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s fall collection for No. 21 was inspired by Nineties grunge. The designer fused British influences with a dose of Italian glamor, making for a study in contrasts. There was also Dell’Acqua’s signature masculine-feminine aesthetic including rockabilly drainpipe pants — cropped to show off Michael Jackson-style crystal-studded socks — and cocoon coats.

 

Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Milan FW2013

For her fall 2013 collection Alberta Ferretti stayed close to her DNA, meaning: soft romance and femininity. Out came lovely clothes, subtle and sometimes playful with some impressive workmanship in re-embroidered lace and floral adornments. Two silhouettes dominated: straight to the floor and a shorter version. Colors varied from black and white, blue, purple, red and green. Especially her velvet dresses were pretty.

 

 

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Milan FW2013

The Gucci-collection for fall 2013 is about smart, wearable, precisely cut style. Designer Frida Giannini went for structured, sculptural lines with pronounced shoulders, either rounded or slightly raised. There were roomy coats and jackets over slim skirts, suits and dresses with body-conscious allure often with V-necklines. This is a powerwoman, especially when she is wearing black (snake) leather. Colors were traditinal autumn-like: moss-green, maroon, russet.

First View New York Womenswear FW2013: Fabulous Coats

It’s been a big week for coats. Remarkable that an item that independent of the weather gradually lost its position in the stores, is now THE canvas for fashion statements.

A myriad of coat styles crossed the runways – from traditional camel capes, pea coats and prep Prince of Wales jackets to decadent furs, plastic trenches and an impressive series of stern and rigid, broad shouldered power coats with nipped and belted waists. From prim tailored trenches, reinterpreted smokings to rugged utilitarian parkas.

Most obvious where the numerous terrific coats that where stripped down and traditional, inspired by menswear suiting and tailoring.

Alexander Wang cut his coats oversize and dropped the waist inspired by boxing. Phillip Lim referenced bikers; showing  motorcycle jackets, ragged shearling but also super trenches. Michael Kors themed urban warriors; fast-paced, sporty and chic in bold, boxy, sculptural shapes and Calvin Klein buckles up and goes large; with mannish shoulders in dense cloth.

Though the coat’s references are mannish the looks are generally sensual.

Great tools of empowerment.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

For the set of his show Marc Jacobs got inspired by the ‘Weather Project’ of artist Olafur Eliasson’s, a huge hot sun that shone intensely on the models. Jacobs started his show under the sun’s low frequency light that removed all color, everything seemed black, gray and sepia. Then the light changed and it revealed a beautiful palette of neutrals and soft colors, poink, blue, deep burgundy and green. It was a simple collection without any techno-fabrics. Jacobs choose traditional materials like cashmere and alpaca, silk and fur. For day there were chic skirt looks and coats in blue alpaca and pink cashmere.The shine came via an embroidered fishnet motif on sensual pajama looks, and fox-collared tulle jackets covered in big, loose paillettes, some over-sequined gowns.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

There was some Soviet influence in the fall-collection Calvin Klein presented. It was visible in the distinct military details, especially with the first few suits and dresses. Mostly in black and navy, they came in a faint plaid with vinyl inserts. Designer Costa made a powerful statement with lots of leather, accentuated shoulders on tailored pieces and several oversize silhouettes in stiffer fabrics. He countered this almost workmanlike sensibility with sexy bandeau tops that were wrapped in the back.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Designer Ralph Lauren looked at Russia for his fall 2013 collection, but also took some inspiration from Paris.

Lauren’s day looks drew from naval motifs, particularly an array of outerwear, from pea-coats to officer’s caots. These came in various proportions, sometimes cut away. Though most were black or navy, Lauren lightened the lineup with a roomy ivory topper. He also showed knits and poetic shirts with billowing sleeves.

As for the pants, Lauren went for a classic sailor motif in skinny stovepipes. His other favorites were Cossack pants shown in burgundy and navy, sometimes pleated for extra volume.

Lauren broke up the mannish influence with lovely fluid dresses in deep-toned velvets and a beautiful series of evening-gowns.

Oscar de la Renta Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Was this fall-collection of Oscar de La Renta a collaboration with John Galliano or not? Not one will know for sure. The American designer took the bow at the end and Galliano stayed backstage. Certain looks seemed to bear the Englishman’s hand, especially the opening jackets and  also the marcelled locks and deeply shaded, greasy eyes were familiar from his Paris days. Other pieces seemed more like vintage de la Renta, and that was good.

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