Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014

Multiple shades of blue-  from morning sky pale to Yves Klein intense – dominated the spring collection of Calvin Klein. It was graphic, athletic and slyly streetwise. There were color-blocked bombers and bonded wool trousers, or workers in stiff shirt jackets with silver snap fasteners looked futuristic. Interesting were the series of photo-printed T-shirts and sweatshirts depicting salt flats and seascapes at mid-day, sunset and under the stars.

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Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014

Sport inspiration is everywhere in Milan this season, even at a classic house like Salvatore Ferragamo.
Creative director Massimiliano Giornetti used mustard, burnt orange, light blue, tomato and olive for his ummer suits worn with white shorts, or trousers and jackets in a texture cotton. He took the numbers 1, 2 and 4, inflated them, and placed them on stiff cotton sleeveless shirts and tunic tops, tanks, and knits.
There was a quilting motif too, for white leather jackets, and as a pattern on short plastic coats or cotton shirts. For outerwear, Giornetti played with volume.

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Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014

Donatella Versace presented a playful collection full of shine and neon shades — models even wore thick strips of colored sports tape here and there on their bodies .  There were leather jackets glistened with gold studs and zips,  big rippling Medusa head on the back of shirts, and sheer black lace dress shirts. Then there were clean-cut tailored suits with a roomy silhouette, shiny buttons and strong shoulders, jackets paired with shorts and trousers that gather, tracksuit style, around the ankle. And for all those party-animals there were  neon paint-splattered jeans, sweatshirts, and boiler suits that reveal a man at play. Wow.

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Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014

Jimmy Sommerville and Marianne Faithful were on the soundtrack of Jil Sanders menswear ss14 collection. Centre of this collection were crisp jackets and trim coats in cream, neon, black and white, the tailoring was boxy and lean. The neon popped up on cuffs and hems of loose white blousons and also edgings the inside-out seams of black blazers and trousers.

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A futuristic edge gave the sculpted and glossy leathers and paper-like coats. A sporty vibe came from the oversized T-shirts and Bermuda-shorts.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014

The Dolce & Gabbana Men’s Summer 2014 drew inspiration from Sicilian mythology, whose Greek origins are still retraceable in places such as the Valle dei Templi of Agrigento, at the majestic amphitheatres, like the one at Taormina, and at the Tempio di Apollo of Syracuse.

Visible on the catwalk were prints that represented the classic mythology through the faces of Zeus, Apollo and of antique temples. Besides the stretchy and tight-fitted suits (mostly in white) were blousons mixed with linen pants, shorts.

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Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

That was grunge-de-luxe what Marc Jacobs designed for Louis Vuitton. A bit ironic and provocative, but in a beautiful and sensual way. And melancholic. The set was a circular “hotel” constructed within the vast tent pitched in a Louvre courtyard. The wallpapered corridor housed 50 closed doors which the models opened and exited. The audience became voyeurs, as each “room” featured projections of hotel guests lounging and getting dressed, unaware of the scores of peering eyes.

Jacobs focused on the intimate sartorial gesture: slips, pajamas, robes de chambre. These were paired with some of the season’s best coats and jackets, worn in odd combinations — proportions deliberately awkward, colors sometimes off.

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The pieces were gorgeous:  a herringbone pattern made entirely of embroidered sequins; voluptuous robes lined in marabou. Some coats came in cashmere with deep borders of dégradé sequins; others, in thick silk printed to resemble English tweeds.
Of course, there were Vuitton bags – but without a logo in sight. Jacobs interpreted the house’s classic shapes in tony materials — croc, python, mink and hand-curled goose feathers — often finished with carved ebony or wooden handles.

Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim took inspiration from Asian temples — Indian, Nepalese and Chinese — for their fall collection for Kenzo.  The theme included opulent fabrics flush with metallic, such as gold jacquard and flocked lamé that looked like crocodile. They decorated outfits with a cool but cheesy eye motif, shown head-to-toe on a tailored jacket, skinny pants and open-toe booties.
Tjhere was a lot of decoration, but the clothes were kept quiet. They were cut with vaguely Asian references —  robe coats; short, precision-wrap skirts, and shirts with crisp, wide short sleeves — worked in understandable silhouettes that are very contemporary.

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Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

No firework at Viktor & Rolf, but a strong collection full with clothes that were accessible for a lot of women. With beautiful legs, that is. Since the biggest part of the fall collection was leaning on short skirts and dresses. It looked young and fresh, almost as if a young girl tried to modify her clothes herself by cutting and ripping it and putting it together again with lace inserts and embroideries. It was a mix of bouncy sportswear, serious power-dressing and modern sculptured silhouettes. The designers sticked to a black-and-white palette and occasionally injected a subtle Sixties London vibe.  Fanciful touches came via overstated bows, from a giant one on the neckline of a white shirt to another on the shoulder of a gown.

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Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

It’s always such a pleasure to see a show of Haider Ackermann. It’s almost like meditation: the slow pace of the models, the sensibility of the clothes, the pureness. Again, Ackermanns guide to his fall-collection was the thin line between strength and fragility.  Tailoring played a major role as did quiet tones of gray, black and white, green. Some of the tailoring was oversized, with full-legged pants and droopy sleeves almost to the knees. The model looked as if they were dressed in their lovers’ clothes. There we also sharper pieces with strong shoulders and defined waists, like the houndstooth military jacket with the collar torn off and the seams left raw, or another jacket in  brown with purple velvet lining its ruffled peplum.

Fur was new at Ackermann, but he used it well. His shearling flight jackets and his collarless beaver-fur coats looked beautifiul.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

In his second ready to wear-collection for the house of Christian Dior Raf Simons brought art and Dior closer together. You could see it on the clothes with Andy Warhol’s early, sensitive drawings as a recurring graphic. Warhol also echoed in the silvered spheres suspended in the room and the Laurie Anderson soundtrack reflected the right mood. But also Dior and Simons got closer: the Bar jacket was paired with baggy pants in a navy or black denim wool.
The message seemed to be about control. Just look at the way the classic “lady” silhouettes—bustier, full-skirted—were translated into black leather, or the Dior houndstooth was transmogrified into a sexy little bustier with a wrapped silk dress. They’ll likely be the ambassadors for the new Dior.

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