Proenza Schouler Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

The designers of Proenza Schouler wanted a collection full with energy, creativity and life. And so they did. Of course not without their focus on fabric. Graphic combinations of black paired with orange, purple, turquoise, crimson and pink converged in patterns reminiscent of vinyl records and the Flintstones. These came mashed up on sporty separates and single garments, such as precise patchworks of leather and crepe on dresses. There were also technical lace and flock prints embroidered with bugle beads.
The fabric finish was flat, matte, almost scubalike and accentuated by architectural curves: a nipped waist and sleeves that were big at the shoulder tapered toward the wrist.

Hugo Boss Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

Last year the Hugo Boss group hired Jason Wu as their designer for Boss Women. Given the brand’s roots, tailoring was the focus of Wu’s first collection. Spare and minimal in cut and finish, the tailoring did have subtle femininity and movement. Wu worked in cashmere and silk in a classi palette of black, camel and gray. One of the strongest silhouettes was a long coat, slightly rounded at the shoulder, belted with an A-line skirt. It came in stricter variations with stiff collars and pretty plaid and leather panels for decorative interest.

Derek Lam Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

A striking sense of color fueled Derek Lam’s fall runway. From the opening look, a lavender bouclé jacket, forest green turtleneck and rich caramel calf hair skirt, he used unusual pairings of a modernist palette to invigorate his minimally driven sportswear.
The chalky pink and green necklines were powerful accents on neutral color-blocked crepe dresses, and the bright cuffs and collar of a black cashmere turtleneck gave a graphic verve to a simple sweater-and-skirt pairing. The lineup was stocked with individual pieces such as the easy dresses, cut from panels of crepe satin that were connected by gold beads, and the leathers — a mosaic patchwork skirt, for example — that underscored the collection’s attitude of sporty luxury.

Michael Kors Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

Michael Kors designs clothes for real women with real lives and real wardrobe preferences. These women take care of their bodies and prefer a little sexy with their fashion.Kors is happy to go public with his love for women with real bodies (albeit well-toned), women in their 30s, 40s and beyond. He knows that most of those women would rather look mainstream glamorous than stop-traffic-fashiony.
The collection Kors showed played to those women with panache and charm.
The silhouettes were almost invariably relaxed and rooted in sportswear — a great coat over a sweater and chiffon skirt; a chunky hand-knit over a fringed suede skirt. Plays of texture were key — thick sweater knits, mannish tweeds, flannels, python, sequins, chiffon, fil coupé — worn in the most inviting of combinations.

Anna Sui Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

It was clear that Anna Sui got inspired by Asia. To be more specific: the British musical comedy Chu Chin Chow. Anna Sui stuck to one theme — chinoiserie meets Twenties Art Deco — with clothes that would look at home in both speakeasy and opium den, or on fans of Sui’s irreverent point of view.

There were several flapper and cheongsam dresses and embroidered silk pajamas that, when teamed with fringed scarves and Mongolian lamb fur coats, had a boho attitude. The tweed jackets were charming, executed softly like a knit cardigan. Colorful Art Deco-inspired boots and tasseled necklaces added to the fun.

The few men’s looks, such as an embroidered tuxedo jacket over ruffle shirt and pajama pants, complemented the show’s exotic vibe.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley are the new designers of the Marc by Marc Jacobs-collection from now on. They presented their first collection yesterday. The designers wasted no time establishing a strong point of view: The new Marc by Marc girl is badass, if charmingly so. A culmination of street culture, grunge and sporty irreverence — the elements Marc Jacobs used to define the label in its infancy — the new look was filed under BMX ninjas. Bartley and Hillier had in mind an active person with energy, a bit feisty and sulky.
Spare tailoring was established first with a plain black shirt over a white turtleneck bodysuit and navy trousers, amped up with extreme accessories: a shiny black obi and giant high-tops. There were sharp blazers, long wrap skirts and neat coats, one with oversize fit, all of it cut with an edge. From there, Hillier and Bartley unleashed a surge of fearless, subversive spirit that mixed BMX style with Japanese manga and warrior motifs.

Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s fall collection was about nostalgia for their childhood. Their fall lineup was softer, prettier and generally more palatable. Yet it was not a return to the ethereal romance and couture-like creations of their early days.

A series of fluttery chiffon styles — dresses and a jumpsuit — with smocked bodices studded with crystals could have shimmied across the party deck of the Love Boat. They came in orange, brown, mustard and chalky pastels, setting the Seventies tone in terms of color scheme and style. Deep red paper-bag pants were worn with a gray turtleneck and a crocheted sweater.
Turtlenecks were everywhere — solids and clingy mélange knits that were layered under off-the-shoulder sweaters, dresses, long lace gowns and tailored glitter jackets with shearling collars.

The finale featured five asymmetric draped silk charmeuse gowns printed with imagery from the designers’ favorite movie trilogy: Luke Skywalker, C-3PO, R2-D2 and Yoda.

Tommy Hilfiger Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

After spring’s surf-and-sand theme, Tommy Hilfiger created another impressive set by transforming the Park Avenue Armory into a rugged wintry scene with mountains capped in fake snow, ski lodges and a wooden path as runway. This was an all-American scene, down to the first riffs of the soundtrack: Neil Young’s ‘Cinnamon Girl’.

Then came the parade of models in a variety of outfits that were fun and feisty in attitude: a striped plaid shirt with a matching ruffled skirt, a youthful shirtdress in a Technicolor check.

The outerwear was equally strong, delivering a cool spin to mountaineering staples. Even Hilfiger himself took his bow dressed in a vest, woodsy plaid shirt, jeans and hiking boots. His models, meanwhile, worked an utterly charming take on the motif — all plaids, puffers and teddy fur and pom-pom beanies.

Prabal Gurung Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

Prabal Gurung payed a trip to his home in Nepal and visited a tiny place called Mustang in the Himalayas. He was caught by the traditional culture and serenity and translated that into his fall-collection.
The designer infused his lineup with a sense of ease beginning with beautiful melange knits — capes and trapeze shapes — elegantly bundled with scarves and crafty Mongolian lamb coats worn over draped chiffon skirts. Nepal provided more than inspiration — some of the cashmeres were produced there.

There was balance to everything, whether the fluidity and structure of tailored jackets and pants laced with draped satin panels, or the drama and softness of cocktail dresses and gowns embellished with mosaic crystals and ostrich feathers.

Done in warm colors, such as crimson and orange, the finale was romantic and racy.

Theory Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

Olivier Theyskens wants the label Theory to be neat, disciplined and precise. And he serves that mandate well, regarding the presentation yesterday. He escalated the collection’s core of minimal basics by tweaking proportions and developing fabrics. The classic white shirt came elongated as a crisp, straight tea-length dress and a roomier version that cut away on the left side. The asymmetrical hem was a repeat effect bringing controlled drama to dresses, some with transparent skirts, and hourglass jackets that were folded into structured ruffles on one side.

The more lyrical side was revealed in shiny jackets — silk bonded to wool — embroidered with green and silver florals.

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