Sportmax catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

While Max Mara was nice, but not necessarily mind blowing, it’s little sister Sportmax was impressive with a collection full of XL check prints and culottes. The designs felt young as crop tops, hands in the pockets, hair pulled back and bare faces made it look modern. Models sported strapless dresses, belted kimono tops, checked pencil skirts with matching jackets and furry/fringed sweaters. All in a sophisticated color palette of blacks and whites, olive green and a bright touch of orange. Work attires, relax outfits and quite a few party numbers; for upcoming summer Sportmax is bound to appeal to a wide range of female customers.

Jesus del Pozo Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2015

Creative Director Josep Font of the Spanish house Delpozo played with volume, proportion and illusion. He began with exaggerated sportswear silhouettes: the widest of red culottes paired with a white wrapped bandeau, and the fullest of skirts, beautifully done in a white, navy and green midi strapless dress with a white shirt underneath. He then shifted gears into more sculptural pieces inspired by the land art of Nils-Udo, including a yellow top with an exaggerated peplum and a sculpted flower on the bodice, and a miniskirt with origamilike panels.
He also paid homage to the 19th-century glass creations of Leopold and Rudolf Blaschka with a green tulle shirtdress embellished with seashells.

Michael Kors Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2015

Michael Kors’s collection can be described as American optimism, feminine but also rugged and sporty.

Seethrough such skirts played a role in Kors’ prevailing silhouette — waist-centric with a full skirt that indeed hints at the Fifties without ever making the trip to retro. The polite transparency recurred as well, wearability achieved when paired with crisp, elongated skirts.
Flowers abounded — pristine daisy appliqués on all-white looks; a camellia print on a pajama; big geraniums embroidered on indigo mikado. Kors delivered on the sporty side of his equation with cropped chinos, one pair worn with a shirt and gray cashmere pullover with matching corsage; strong outerwear, and his grounded footwear. This included a rugged sandal set on a prim, low heel. The style’s name, at least on Sunday morning: the Jesus Kitten.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2015

Energy — the driving force of the planet, whether it unites, divides, uplifts or negates. In a matter of three seasons, Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley have infused Marc by Marc Jacobs with the kind of charge that people seek out. Young, fierce and intense, the powerful attitude established for fall gained momentum for spring.

‘Be who you are’ would be the mantra of the spring Marc by Marc girl. Wearing a cropped T-shirt layered under a plastic, pastel-blue polka-dot bandeau and matching skirt, herhair twisted into a mohawk of mini-buns, she would be the confident nonconformist at the party — intimidating but probably a lot of fun.

 

Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2015

The Rodarte-sisters starting point for their spring collection were tide pools and all of the glistening, mysterious materials and textures therein. Whether they were referencing the life aquatic of their California youth or of their verdant imaginations, no matter. They mined the waters and came out with dresses mesmerizing in their messiness: elaborate pastiches of hand-painted laces, tulles, netting and embroideries.

But life isn’t lived underwater, or after dark only. The Mulleavys showed an affinity for daywear their way: lovely ruffle-collared blouses that looked plenty sexy atop skintight jeans. They developed outerwear as well, which they envisioned on a girl standing on the pier watching the water. These came in sturdy olive canvas with wide netting on the sleeves, as if some chic flotsam had washed ashore on a wave of inventive practicality.

 

Victoria Beckham Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York SS2015

It looks like Victoria Beckham is re-addressing her aesthetic signature now that she has a store of her own in London. The designer approached spring a lot like a retailer, with staple items — a shirt, a sweater, a coat — that may have hinted at a few directions but were united by Beckham with polish and commercial appeal. These included the uniform-inspired khaki looks, such as the elongated coat with subtle military details like soft epaulets and workwear pockets. The knits and graphic stripes made a bolder statement, though she kept the lineup’s surprise for the finale of bright florals that were screen-printed on voluminous woven raffia skirts and shown with white cotton shirts.

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York SS2015

‘New York Nation’ was the theme of DKNY’s bold spring collection, which aimed to celebrate the city’s color, culture and creativity. Donna Karan translated the idea via bright hues, several graphically rendered like a kaleidoscope on oversize silhouettes. Those included the striking red-and-blue V-neck tunic over a full skirt with a soft flounce. The subtler colors achieved more effect, such as the crisp mint-green parka shown with a striped T-shirt and a miniskirt. It still captured the energy of Gotham, but with just the right control.

By Brown SS2014 Amsterdam Fashion Week

Models with soaking wet hair and a touch of turquoise underneath their eyes paraded the By Brown (Brown clothes before) catwalk on Saturday evening. They seemed to have just walked out of the sea, onto the beach on a hot summer day. A day perfect for pairing airy dresses and summer knits. A day for asymmetrical slouchy pants and pleated. Touches of leather and fiercely accentuated shoulders for later on. Whites, sandy tones and hints of aqua and yellow added to the summery feeling of the show. Some of the pieces of the RESTLESS SYMMETRY collection might never end up in a ‘real woman’s wardrobe’, but there were plenty of elegant wearable pieces (a designing skill designer Melanie Brown developed while working at Stills) that would. It was Browns first big fashion week show in Amsterdam and she certainly left her mark.

Fashion Week Amsterdam SS2015, this was Day 2

The second day of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam was a busy day with a variety of fashion-shows. From the stylish Ready to Fish ILJA show to the cheerful show of Lichting 2014. Winner of this years edition is Bastian Visch from The Academy of Arts in The Hague. And of course lots of visitors enjoyed themselves outside in the sun.

 

 

 

Fashion Week Amsterdam SS2015, this was Day 1

Day 1 of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam is a fact. With a great openingshow of Claes Iversen, a surprising debut of Olaf Hussein and an inspiring performance of ZERO by Nanine Linning.

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