Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

The starting point for the latest Rodarte collection was birds. Migrating birds. Birds migrating from city to country. But is looked like it was all about disco. There were multicolor sequin stripes; one-shoulder dresses; a crystal mesh material that read as a kind of magic lamé; and that Bob Mackie-style, heavy-duty figurative bead embroidery that’s done a long-term penance in the thrift shop bins.

The connection between birds and disco was color: Avian plumage prompted a relook at that rainbow-hued, peacocking disco moment. And it’s also true that the bird reference wasn’t so far-flung, given the preponderance of feathers on the Rodarte runway.
 

Ready to Fish by Ilja Visser Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

Un-related to any specific theme or inspiration, Ready to Fish by Ilja Visser started with a blank canvas to present a collection that reads like a sketchbook, and a compendium of the Ready to Fish style. It was important for them to capture the sketch-like quality of the unfinished – leaving room for both our own as the customers imagination and interpretation.
As a metaphor for this collation of ideas, used classic marble prints, adorning sketchbooks and archive folders that will prove instantly recognizable to everyone. The collection also emphasizes the idea that many archetypes that inspired the designer belong to the public domaine, and that the use of codes, references verses our own interpretations and developments are at constant play throughout the design process.

Tommy Hilfiger Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

Tommy Hilfiger started his company in 1985. And in three decades he has established a serious company with all the Americana people love. In the past 30 years, Hilfiger has ridden the wave of designer stardom, always with a certain admirable confidence. Maybe that’s because he has been unfailing in his love of Americana in its many, many guises. To kick off his 30th anniversary celebration, he created a Fall collection inspired equally by American football and Love Story.
He staged the show at the Park Avenue Armory, which was transformed into a football stadium, with a Jumbotron capturing the fashion plays as models walked the runway in Ali MacGraw-inspired ’70s-prep silhouettes. They were wearing faux-fur stadium jackets with red-stitched toggles, wool cashmere ponchos, and several looks in bouclé plaid. The jacket of a shorts suit, for instance, was decorated with a knitted striped collar. Those athletic stripes added a sporty detail to just about every item, many of which were decorated with little pins and stars reminiscent of 1940s football paraphernalia.

For Hilfiger, this was just the beginning of a year of celebration.

Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

Donna Karan’s whole career has been inspired by New York City. For Fall she used the nighttime skyline as a backdrop for the runway, and made the blacks and grays of the buildings and the glinting golds of their lights her show’s central colors. Perched on platform sandals or boots, the collection’s long, lean silhouette owed something to the city’s new class of super-scrapers. New York is tall and getting taller. It’s a melting pot, too. Obi-like belts and origami folds on the one hand and opulent, burnished brocades on the other conveyed something of its multicultural glamour.

Depending on the season, Karan shifts between tailoring and dresses. This collection was mostly built on the former. All manner of jackets, from blazers to a leather bomber, were belted at the midriff above tapering trousers or narrow skirts. Her evening dresses had a modern spirit.

Victoria Beckham Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

While working on her fall collection Victoria Beckham had been listening closely to her London store customers. Not minimalism and modernism alone were key terms of her collection; Victoria brought sexy back into her designs. The extremely popular, sexy dresses she presented at the beginning of her career in fashion, that is. Designs perhaps closer to Victoria’s, very much adored, personal style. Figure hugging, but – created out of the loveliest, most luxury fabrics– extra classy. Midi was another key word as culottes, dresses, skirts and coats all ended mid calf, forming a perfect match with the stompy high-heeled calf boots. Black, white, grey will be fall’s strongest color options, presented in the mix with a chic pop of olive green, yellow and orange. Cashmere tops and woolen bottoms ; clothes were stiff and structured, but kept their elegance, gracefully moving along with the models every move. Worn in a careless, effortless, yet sophisticated kind of way, that is inherent to Victoria’s personal way of dressing. As well as to that of her family. The Beckham family, which was complete and represented front row. Stylish, cool and well behaved (no tantrum involved). Victoria knows a thing or two about class..

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

Alexandser Wang presented a totally black collection, well almost.  Technically the lineup was not totally black — there were two ivory fisherman sweaters worn with stonewashed jeans, two red plaids and a few metallic mesh getups. The rest was pitch black and hardcore, framed within the street section of heavy metal.
It was a brave collection. References to metal abounded in the very sophisticated construction of the clothes. Severe, mannish tailoring of cropped pants and harsh jackets had pocket chains made of little silver balls that also trimmed coat collars and dresses with panels. The same pattern recurred on handbags. Quilted pieces looked made from luxe packing blankets  while silk pajamas and bathrobes reflected the lush side of Goth.

All of the details, the design equivalent of puns, were part of Wang’s playful spirit, yet the attitude of the show was seriously aggressive. The models stomped out in extreme platform lug-sole combat boots with wet stringy hair covering their zombie faces. Two fitted velvet crop tops, worn with skirts that swished with silver fringe, were womanly in a witchy way, but there was not a soft side to this collection. Wang was unflinching in his point of view and there’s a lot to be said for such conviction.

Lacoste Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

Viktor&Rolf Haute Couture Catwalk Show SS2015 Paris

Viktor&Rolf’s Spring/Summer 2015 Haute Couture collection is inspired by the raw energy of Vincent van Gogh’s exuberant depiction of the rural countryside. Flowerprint A-line babydoll dresses paired with straw hats and flipflops form the basis for a collection of increasingly colourful and sculptural looks.

Spring/Summer 2015 Haute Couture is a surreal exploration of print: Flower petals sprout outwards and escape the garments, transforming 2D prints to 3D, and essentially bringing the flat surface to life.

The essence of the countryside is translated into unexpected, sculptural looks that combine abstract graphic volumes with organic elements. Straw hats, put together with a spontaneous touch, form a surreal nod to countryside living. They enhance the bucolic mood of the looks, ultimately merging with the shapes of the garments, creating a new organic unity where hat and dress become one. Sandals made in matching printed fabric complete the summer look.

All fabric is manufactured through an authentic batik inspired “wax-dyeing & block printing” technique by VLISCO in the Netherlands. This ensures an unique high quality print with craquelé indigo lines and intense vibrant colours on both sides of the cloth.

The mood of the collection is set with a musical injection of femininity from the theme of ‘Rosemary’s Baby’, which starts as a lullaby and grows into an eerie and mysterious vibe during the course of the show.

Art collector Han Nefkens, a longstanding collaborator of Viktor&Rolf acquired three pieces of the collection after the show debuted on January 28th on the catwalks of Paris Fashion Week. These three works will be donated to the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen. Their longstanding collaboration has led to the purchase or commissioning of pieces that are donated or given as a long term loan to the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen as part of the Han Nefkens Fashion on the Edge project.

Jan Taminiau Couture Presentation SS2015 Paris

During an imtimate presentation at the Residence of the Dutch Ambassador in Paris Jan Taminiau told his SS2015 couture story. A collection for which the talented designer shook things up a bit. His three models wore wigs (in red, black and blonde) and therefore looked outspoken. Like characters out a Marvel Comic Strip, Jan Taminiau’s source of inspiration for this collection named Marvelous. More than ever before Jan put the focus of his designs on the hips, waist, breasts, buttocks and shoulders, honouring those parts of the female body women are sometimes afraid to reveal. The dresses seemed to give the models an even better, very powerful posture and a touch of super heroin toughness. A split cape added to that effect. Yet no matter how rigid and tough some of the creations appeared, hours and hours of handwork were put into them. Like the case with some embroidered star and feather shaped applications, glass beads and shiny sequins. Feathers made out of unravelled fabric popped up as well, making a strapless evening gown feel classic and an orange cocktail number look unique. Two pairs of pants and a full on glitter bodysuit made their appearance. Other than that Jan only presented his audience with dresses (both cocktail and evening) as “the shape of a dress is one in which his ideas can be released to the fullest”. A warm color palette of shades like orange, copper, nude, red, yellow and mint green worked lovely with the gold colored setting of the Parisian residence. We’re curious to see which power women will end up wearing these designs. Fact is any woman wearing Jan Taminiau will always look like a superwoman. And who wouldn’t want ‘ Jan’ in a star shape embroidery written on her chest?

Ilja Visser Couture Catwalk Show SS2015 Paris

Telling the story of nature’s rotating dynamic TOURNAVOLTA is the name of Ilja Visser’s new couture collection. Inspired by the perfect balance between nature en life it contained the loveliest of green shades, from olive and moss to mint. Made from complex pattern designs had the most graphic materials and voluminous shapes. A mix between heavy and airy fabrics, a match of both casual and elegance styles. Still the show’s vibe was relaxed, the silhouette easy going (hands in the pockets). Yes, these were couture designs, yet those pieces were wearable enough for many occasions, making them accessible to a broader audience. A beautifully made collection a label like Ilja might just need to break through internationally. And for those who wonder, there were still some Gaga worthy pieces (we suggest a mint green dress with orange ribbon) in it.

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