For her SS16 collection Liselore Frowijn has been playing with the word power and the meaning of it. A powerful woman is the one who dares to stand at the frontline, to be bold and brave. Frowijn was touched by the boldness and pureness of the monumental colorband-works by artist Sol Lewitt. It were these paintings she used as an inspiration to develop screen-printed, knitted and embroidered graphics in the collection.
She worked with fresh primary colors together with whites and tones of brown, to create a laminated and edgy look, playing with voluminous and tight silhouettes. She wishes to create an optimistic and energetic image. A dynamic universe is created by using organic and geometric shapes; the collection is like a cubistic kaleidoscope.
While the fashion-circus moved from Milan to Paris last monday, Jan Taminiau decided to present his new haute couturecollection in Amsterdam in an intimate setting. Artist Trudy Derksen opened her atelier to guests and clients and it proved to be a great setting for Taminiau’s dresses and pantsuits. It was all elegant and feminine and made for those women of the world, who divide their time between work and social events. Especially the evening-dresses were impressive, esspecially the ones with embroideries and handpainted flowers.
Dutch designer Mattijs van Bergen presented his first collection after a difficult time with financial problems. He seems ready for a new chapter and has decided only to design collections on demand. And one of the projects is this new collection ZWART in collaboration with the Dutch Photomuseum in Rotterdam. The designer got inspired by the black and white photos he found in the archives of the museum of Ed van der Elsken, Aart Klein and Cas Oorthuys. He designed a collection of 16 pieces in black and white and used photo-prints of the artists in an abstract and sometimes recognizable way. The result is a strong, elegant and light collection.
It is the first time the Dutch Photomuseum has an exhibition about photography mixed with fashion. And it turned out very well.
Photo to Fashion
Until january 10th 2016
Nederlands Fotomuseum
Gebouw Las Palmas, Wilhelminakade 332 Rotterdam
This year year is Riccardo Tisci’s tenth at the Givenchy-house, and there was a sense of celebration and coming of age amongst the clothes. It was a collection which spelled out and repeated almost calligraphic black and white variations of the same sentences: Ivory slip dresses and rouleau-strapped camisoles with lace edges, worn over excellently tailored black pants cut to taper gently over pointed shoes. Supple crepe tuxedo jackets with tails, soft kimono coats, and transparent organdy trenches glimmering with jet embroidery. Many, many body-skimming sparkly silver shifts.
Aficionados of Tisci maybe recognized the most spectacular of his couture dresses, one with a degrade feather effect, and another with leather patches applied on tulle in the shape of alligator skin. And then there was the face decoration, taken to another level of beautiful elaboration, in studded golden jewelry, tulle frills, and lace.
It was a show filled with Dutchies at Atelier Versace. Familiar faces like supermodels Lara Stone, Doutzen Kroes and newcomer Maartje Verhoef. But fresh faces too, like Marjan Jonkman, Susanne Knipper, Julia van Os, Lauren de Graaf en Milan van Eeten. Garlands in their hair patent platform shoes on their feet. Contrast to keep things interesting. Dresses were dreamy as well as powerful, another contradiction. Corset tops, harnesses, sheer chiffon, lace and cutouts left nothing to the imagination. Looks that had sex written all over them, even though Donatella portrayed her softest Versace side. From a distance the pastel colored dresses might have appeared princess-y, up and close the vibe was more party. Frayed edges, asymmetric off shoulder dresses and lots of body parts on display. Shiny sequins and velvet appliqués added to the rich feeling of the collection. Yet while so many designs appeared unfinished we couldn’t help but think Donatella may have been in a rush. Couture as if created in a hurry. That didn’t stop Doutzen from wearing her floor sweeping gown to the Amfar dinner that same evening. Fresh off the runway, how convenient!
Fashion followers know that Hedi Slimane has been photographing the California beach scene for years — long before he replaced Paris for Los Angeles. So now wonder his ss16 menswear collection has its roots in the “Surf Sounds” .
The pitch-black show venue was covered in kitschy palm-trees-at-sunset wallpaper. And similar motifs turned up on satin jackets and mohair granny cardigans, which the young models wore with the same nonchalance as black leather jackets.
There was plenty of Kurt Cobain in the men’s looks: the shaggy hairstyles; the white plastic sunglasses, the plaid shirts; the denim with blown-out knees. And there were plenty of literal thrift-shop styles.
Kim Jones, menswear designer of Louis Vuitton, likes to travel. Looking for rare animals, hidden crafts and remote landscapes. In Myanmar last year, Jones came across a tribe whose handmade costumes — loosely cut and bearing dynamic stripes — brought to mind modern streetwear and a whiff of the Eighties hip-hop scene. More recently in Japan, he discovered Kobe leather, named after the pampered cows that produce that prized beef.
Jones dappled exotic prints and embroideries, mainly plucked from Southeast Asia, across traditional Ivy League silhouettes. He hit on souvenir jackets, also sending out sweatshirt versions and similar pajama sets decorated with birds of paradise, cranes and monkeys lodged in bamboo.
Accessories were mostly totes in supple versions of monogram canvas that are, like the souvenir jackets and those coats in the thinnest leather, reversible.
‘Bad boys and bad girls’ was how Riccardo Tisci summed up his Givenchy menswear-show: prison stripes and rugged workwear for him, gauzy lace couture gowns for her. It was another powerful outing from Tisci — impressive in the restraint he used in exploring the lockup theme, and in the couture finesse he applied to sharp, hyper-masculine tailoring and streetwise sportswear alike.
Tisci’s is obsessed with American workwear and that explains the mechanic colors, bandanas, overalls and denim. There were indigo coats with leather trim, lean color-blocked jeans and the pale blue or coal black denim boiler suits with ghostly images of Jesus on the cross-embedded in the fabric.
The religious imagery, stripes and checks were the main print stories and there were new shapes: boxy T-shirts and scrubs, strict dress Bermudas and strong-shouldered suits and topcoats. Tisci’s tailoring was all precise lines and compact fabrics .
Our own fashiondictionary Real Highlander There are only a few. Famous ones are Sonia Rykiel, Karl Lagerfeld, Giorgio Armani and Vivienne Westwood. They're around for at least 75 years and have designed over 750 different collections. The rumour goes they survive by sucking blood of male virgins to revitalize in between seasons.