Zac Posen Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

Y-3 Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

At the end of the Y-3 show a net dropped from the ceiling and Yohji Yamamoto—accompanied by Zinedine Zidane, one of the world’s most famous soccer players—came out to take a shot at a goal.  Does that mean Yamamoto is a football fanatic? Not exactly. What inspired Yamamoto’s World Cup-themed collection was something more poetic: the movement of the net after a goal. Netting was integrated into the collection with lots of airy (and body-exposing) pieces. These worked best when worn under tailored separates, like pants and jackets. The combination of structure and flow, as in a blazer over a long dress, or the draped jersey tunics and stiffer cotton pants, was effective.

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

When Donna Karan launched DKNY in 1989, its streetwise, fast-fashion ideas were a welcome innovation. Now, 20 years later, it’s the grand mother of secondary collections. Yet DKNY’s is still a New York state of mind. Named City in Bloom, Karan’s collection played neutrals off a host of florals, including charming little peonies and splashy floral and -graffiti prints.  There were endless propositions of the suit: boyfriend jackets paired with little cuffed shorts or slouchy pants—even a silk bomber with matching sweatpants. Biker shorts were worn under every dress and short.

Diane von Furstenberg Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

Diane von Furstenberg sent out a spring-collection of real-world clothes, which referred to nomads, Egypt, deserts and had a hint of Pre-Raphaelites.  Tiger-print safari suits and leopard-spot shirtdresses mingled with floral-appliqué chiffon and a daisy-chain maxi dress. Brightly colored macramé hippie dresses were mixed with more urbane jersey numbers.
It lookes all very eccentric, but there were also a few tailored looks: printed-silk and belted jackets and cropped, high-waisted carrot pants. For evening, von Furstenberg heated things up with a draped gold mesh dress and a gold coin-beaded leather gladiator shift.

Derek Lam Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

Forties-style meeting disco seemed the overall theme of Derek Lam’s spring summer collection. Lots of color, lots of feel good, easygoing clothes. He showed a sweet little floral-blouse-high-waisted-shorts combo, a great-looking dark denim zip-front jacket, and retro swimwear in which you only lounge. Stars were everywhere. Small like polka dots on a belted  dress. A bigger multicolor print was used for a sleeveless blouse tucked into corseted trousers. And then there was a sundress, patchworked together from black and white poplin with a big star front and center.  It was enough to make you nostalgic for a summer by the beach.

Lacoste Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

The models at Lacoste walked at a catwalk that looked like a boardwalk, the ones you’d find at a resorts in France, elevated above an ‘ocean’ of carpet. Simply, sporty chic was the allover theme of Christophe Lemaire’s collection. There were tennis references, but also a beachy aura of langor and leisure that went back to the pictures of Jacques-Henri Lartigue at the beginning of the 20-th century. There was nothing retro about the collection. Its smart focus on upgraded basics, rather than trends gave it panache.

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

Lacoste Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

Jason Wu Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

Jason Wu is the young designer who got famous because of Michelle Obama’s inaugural gown and her sleeveless shift dresses in juicy citrus tones. For summer 2010 he  sent silk tweed pants and silk tweed hoodies down his runway in the  gilded banquet room of the St. Regis Hotel New York. He added a little dose of downtown grittiness with trendy jumpsuits he called ‘mechanic’ suits. He tried to avoid being too edgy by using marabou feathers and presenting glossy cocktail dresses. And let’s not forget his special client: the staple stitch embroidery on fitted tweed dresses and the sculpted faille dresses had plenty of East Wing potential. Wu even accessorized most of the dresses with heavy leather belts, a nod to his favorite First Lady.

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