Well Done Iris van Herpen

Dutch designer Iris van Herpen took her ss 2010 collection to London and created a serious buzz. The ten creations of ‘Radiation Invasion’ were all made by hand and luxury departments store Harrods announced an exhibition of her work. Vogue, Dazed & Confused and Vanity Fair were all speechless. Some even said it was the most beautiful show of all London Fashion Week. We can only say: we regret we were not there and we are very very proud of Iris.  You go girl!

All pictures by Michael Zoeter

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

The Great Recession we’re all living through got Ralph Lauren thinking about the American power to deal with problems. He was inspired by the character of the worker, the farmer, the cowboy, the pioneer women of the prairies.  Models in newsboy caps wore faded and torn oversized jeans with blue work shirts, patchwork overalls, and nightshirts in  stripes, or sweet flowerprint dresses with white ankle socks and  heels. It was cinematic, like most of Lauren’s collections. And it goes without saying that his vision is a romanticized one.

Proenza Schouler Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

They  wanted something young and fresh, so the guys from Proenza Schouler looked to surfing and skating, the things they grew up on. They took the notion of track jackets wrapped around waists and built those elements right into tank dresses and shirtdresses, and they teamed a pair of color-blocked track pants with a great tailored jacket for a sporty-chic effect. It’s the sort of nonchalant look a lot of designers are looking for,  and these guys nailed it perfectly.  For evening, the silhouette was short, short, short. A few of the cocktail numbers featured the bra-cup bodies the duo has made their signature, mixed with tiers of micro ruffles. Other dresses floated away from the body.  The models wore wedge-heel woven sandals as colorful as the clothes.

Snapshot from the photographers-pitch

G-Star Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

G Star took over the Hammerstein Ballroom again this season, pulling off an extraordinairy and well-choreographed fashionshow on an elaborately constructed runway flanked by celebrities (Lindsay Lohan, Taylor Momsen, Jared Leto, et al.). Models in all white denim emerged from behind scrims to plot their zigzagging, overlapping course through the theater—an army of tough, monochrome urbanites. As always, G-Star is experimenting with the ways in which denim can be worn. A long white tuxedo jumpsuit with revealing slits cut up each side, had a trompe-l’oeil bolero in the brand’s signature fabric attached at the shoulders. Teeny-tiny denim bikini shorts and fitted and flared blazers in a classic dark wash.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

The Marc by Marc Jacobs line he presented for Spring  was one of his liveliest in a while. Maybe it’s because Marc Jacobs borrowed some of the details from his own recent oeuvre. To start with, the models all wore bunny bows in their hair, like Madonna’s Vuitton getup at the Met Ball, but in a smaller version. Then there were the jackets and coats with the still-directional forties-by-way-of-the-eighties  shoulders. Fall’s neons reappeared as well. But not everything was taken from Jacobs’ previous collections. The African-inspired prints he used for easy, belted day dresses played into New York’s  tribal trend. And Jacobs also showed a lot of jumpsuits—the cutest in sporty blue. How daring.

G-Star Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

Tony Cohen Catwalk Fashion Show

Amsterdam based designer Tony Cohen showed his signature flowing, asymmetric dresses and tunics. Colors shifted from silvery white to greys, blacks and bolder colors like green and red. Graphic black&white animal-like and smokey prints added some excitement.

Donna Karan Catwalk fashion Show SS10

Donna Karan knows what she’s good at. She sent out a wearable collection of soft skirtsuits and body-loving draped dresses. She explained that she was “inspired by the power of the elements”. It could be the wind, as a hem of the opening stretch linen jacket, for example, was molded as if the model  had just encountered a stiff breeze on the runway. The effect was a sense of movement and a pretty femininity. Twisting around the body, Karan’s dresses had a weightless, easy appeal. There were stretch matte jerseys in blush, and wrap styles with more volume in gray and white. Among the many pale neutrals , the bold reds stood out.

Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

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