Saint Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2017

Anthony Vaccarello’s collection for Saint Laurent was not about chic. Looking chic is the furthest thing from the mind of this Saint Laurent girl. She wants to look aggressive cool: peak-shouldered jackets and micro dresses, high-shine vinyl (or leather), ruffles and a tricked-out sleeve. Such clothes are in-your-face fashion, pulsing with sexy attitude. Part two of the Saint Laurent collection was a series of impeccably made, basic (as in really basic) clothes: jackets, sweaters, pants, jeans, a tank-top. The pre-finale men’s wear fell completely into this category — ultra-cool, ultra-wearable, just clothes.

 

Saint Laurent Paris Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear FW2016

Let a lady walk down the stairs, and you already gained half of the points on the sexy part. No wonder, many fashion designers choose a staircase as a runway. Just like Hedi Slimane did for his Fall 2016 collection. Although rumour has it the designer will soon be leaving Saint Laurent and this would be his last RTW-collection for the giant fashion house, the answer wasn’t present in his show. Not even a clue. After two pitch-black rocker chick’s wardrobe collections, this show was a sharp turn from everything but grungy. Slimane took us back to the late Eighties this time, unveiling top of the bill glam-luxe looks that scream anything but modesty. Plunged necklines, XXL belted waists with flourishing side-bows or vulgar gold, poufed skirts, one shoulder mini-dresses, sequin smokings, leather motorcycle jackets, metallics and all sorts of shimmer, animal prints, flounced tiers on dresses, sheer black tights, stiletto pumps and get ready for the exagerrated shoulder treatment on any level. All looks were accompanied by slicked-back hair, red lipstick, dark eyes and big triangular earrings. It almost felt like an actual show by Yves Saint Laurent himself, back in the days. Once outside the venue it took a while to get back into 2016 reality.

Saint Laurent Paris Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Spring 2016

The pitch-black story continues. After the rock stars slash groupies from the fall 2015 collection and the dark menswear collection from last season, LA-based designer Hedi Slimane decided to roll out the black carpet even more. It felt like diving deeper into this young rocker chick’s wardrobe. Add a splash of Courtney Love (who was actually there at the show) and Kate Moss and you’re ready to bake the cake.

When we heard that the primary source of this collection was the everyday wardrobe we were kind of surprised. Because everyday it was: a white cotton camisole teamed up with a regular jeans and trenchcoat or a biker jacket with jeans. We even spotted blue denim dungarees with wellie boots. Everything but the familiar Slimane DNA. Luckily for the true Slimane admirers and buyers, between the more casual garments, there were plenty of sexy I-dont-give-a-fuck dresses, half hanging on your shoulders, and little nighttime pieces that leave your breasts out in the open. All silky, glittery or covered in animal print. Yet again we saluted the mini slipdresses (a huge trend for next spring!), but also drapey bias gowns and the finale existed of almost all-black gowns with high center-slits that will make you wanna find (not wait for) a party. Any party, that is. Or throw one yourself. Add a oversize denim jacket, motorcycle jacket, golden varsity jacket, or furry vest and you’re ready to go. Oh wait, before we forget: perhaps lose the frown and pout. You can wear the most gorgeous dress and even a crown, but in the end it’s the face everyone will remember.

Saint Laurent Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2016

Fashion followers know that Hedi Slimane has been photographing the California beach scene for years — long before he replaced Paris for  Los Angeles. So now wonder his ss16 menswear collection has its roots in the “Surf Sounds” .

The pitch-black show venue was covered in kitschy palm-trees-at-sunset wallpaper. And similar motifs turned up on satin jackets and mohair granny cardigans, which the young models wore with the same nonchalance as black leather jackets.

There was plenty of Kurt Cobain in the men’s looks: the shaggy hairstyles; the white plastic sunglasses, the plaid shirts; the denim with blown-out knees. And there were plenty of literal thrift-shop styles.

 

 

Saint Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2015

The Saint Laurent models who strode out on the catwalk looked like rock stars or rock-star groupies. Their mini crinis, cigarette pants with suspenders, and Siouxsie Sioux eye shadow placed the audience a few years further on from Hedi Slimane’s Sunset Strip-y Spring collection.

Slimane’s Saint Laurent woman is a bad girl, wearing leather leggings with cutouts all the way up the thighs; a black leather dress slit up to her undies, assuming she’s even bothered to wear any; and ripped and shredded tights above black leather ankle boots. The shoes were killer. Alongside the punky rock star stuff there were a good number of the kind of animal-print capes, navy peacoats, leather motorcycle jackets, and patchwork furs.

Saint Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2014

Hedi Slimane’s collection for Saint Laurent felt like an impeccably detailed capsule of a young rocker chick’s wardrobe: a little bit of Debbie Harry, a Chelsea girl and some punky elegance. Grunge is out, the eighties party-girl are in. cialis 10 mg There was even some YSL in Saint Laurent: the lip print, the trench or the army jacket, the smoking and see-through blouses or the one-shouldered evening wear.

 

Saint Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2013

Hedi Slimane’s second menswear-collection for Saint Laurent was an ode to an imaginary band of beanpole Teddy Boys. Hair slicked back into ducktails, tight pants hitched to the navel.

Lots of people might criticize the collection, but there was some good design: an army green cotton parka cut like a tailcoat, a patchwork leather jacket in a racing-flag pattern, minimalist waistcoats that were little more than vest points on a harness. There was also a variety of youthful jackets, a play on formal-wear and the Fifties varsity jackets in gleaming satin with crystal embroideries on the back. But you’ll have to be a skinny boy to wear it. And young, and rich. But we’ll find plent details and rip offs of this collection back in the stores next year.

Saint Laurent Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

Skinny jeans, checked shirts, leather jackets and long striped scarves; Saint Laurent’s man is a grungy kind of guy for 2013. Jeans had multiple rips and the layering appeared careless on purpose. Hedi Slimane focused on how accessible his designs can be. So accessible both men and women should be able to pull them off (he proved by sending androgynous – real musician – models down the runway). It felt good to see menswear can be more than endless series of checked suits. Yet Slimane’s free spirited, punk creations perhaps could have been a little more original.

Saint Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

It was not the most easy job to take the helm at a house like Saint Laurent. Hedi Slimane delivered his first collection yesterday, ans some people seemed a bit disappointed. Yes, it was edgy, it was chic and it was skinny, but it looked more like a costume parade than a new take on what Yves Saint Laurent created.  The first look was a small black jacket with skinny black pants, a white frilled shirt,  big, soft bow at the neck anda bigger-brimmed fedora. This was followed by countless variations of the same — the fabrics changing from wool to leather to glitz to pinstripes and from cotton to silk and back.  Slimane incorporated typical YSL codes to be developed in the future: tailoring, smoking, gypsy tiers, long evening-dresses, saharienne, animal spots,  demonstrative jewelry.

The clothes were good, but on the safe side: slick, sexy pants, jackets and shirts, which didn’t scream retro and gowns that women will want to wear. But Slimane needs to add more, a risky sizzle that let women crave for Saint Laurent.

Yves Saint Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show FW09

Next Page »