Showtime, at Dior Homme
You’ll never see this at a runway-picture, but this is the setting of most of the catwalkshows. For example, Dior Homme.
Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
‘The best thing about fashion is the freedom to be’, says Albert Elbaz – creative director of Lanvin. And from this point of view the Lanvin-man can wear anything he wants, from sleeveless jackets, to shirts with a tine bow on a neckline or at the waist, kimono-cut shirts, high waisted khakis, puff sleeves or silk shorts. Lucas Ossendrijver did a wonderful job here, to mix the glamourous with the more adventurous.
Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
It was a little sad for Riccardo Tisci. The day he presented his menswear collection for Givenchy Michael Jackson’s death was all over the news. And Tisci just finished the costumes for Jackson’s new tour. The superstar found out about Tisci through the pieces of Givenchy’s womenswear he’d been wearing. The collaboration inspired the gold-star studded tunics and hoodies Tisci showed. But they did not make the collection, it was the mix of North African inspired, layered active wear. He used high tech fabrics and mosaic-like prints and created his own version of a sports uniform.
Showtime, at Hermès
The Couvent de Cordeliers in Paris was transformed into a sand-colored road for the Hermès-show. A lot of shows in Paris are influenced by deserts, sand and cultures from the Middle East.
Hermès Catwalk Fashion Show 2010
Hermès menswear designer Veronique Nichanian makes clothes not fashion, and that’s a relief. Because you can see she’s trying to design the best, flattering and desirable clothes in the world, without the stress of being on top of the trends. And because she is not pushing it, but feels what’s happening in the world, she presents clothes with just enough fashion. Sophisticated colors (taupe, slate, bronze, green), slightly cropped pants, more volume in jackets and knitwear, and beautifully made linen suits in black and bronze. Of course made in the best fabrics.
Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
No layers at the Ann Demeulemeester-show, no poetry, no mixing of proportions. Her ss2010-collection looked simple, sensual and masculine – but very clean and distant as well – with sparkly twinsets, long silken coats, kimono-like coats and simple suits in black and white.
John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
The John Galliano-show was the usual spectacle, with beautiful models painted and dressed to resemble anyone but themselves. Napoleon’s rise was the theme of the collection, but it could also be pirates or a weekend at the Sahara. Clothes were transformed, layered, romantic, floating and colorful. Safari-jackets, shirts turned into sarongs, sand-colored suits and frock-coats as the new outerwear of the season.
Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Levi’s and Mackintosh were supporting Watanabe, who sent out one of his nostalgic collections full of odd and modern mixes of colors, prints and fabrics. This time he referred to it as ‘snobbish’ , but we saw a rather elegant gentleman in a loose silhouet, techno-fabrics and some nice colors. There were pinstriped nylon parka’s, bermudas, waistcoats with their backs cut out, shirts with a collage stripes and checks.
Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Raf Simons is ready for a new decade and said good bye to the teenage-trip he’s been on from the beginning. He aims at a new man now, and individual who is ready for suits wich are luxe and sober but also likes high fashion items like a knit torso with cloth jacket shoulders. Simons even developed a logo: a snake in an S-shape around an R. Wow, he’s serious now. The snake came back in belts and as a print for sheer tops and trousers.
Hugo by Hugo Boss Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Thank God for Bruno Pieters. He made Hugo by Hugo Boss a cool, avantgarde but still affordable label again. The collection (jackets, trenches, sheer shirts and tight trousers) was in black and white, with some blue and red. The style was very minimal and sometimes icy because of the white, but turned more sophisticated in navyblue en light blue stripes.