AMFI Catwalk Fashion Show SS10
By Ivo Wiermans
Students of Amsterdam Fashion Institute (AMFI) showed their seventh collection for the school’s label Individuals. The young designers presented a collection called LaLaLa. A title that perfectly described a series of fascinating pieces.
Besides the prints with LaLaLa, it was a collection with a true LaLaLa attitude. Strong and soft looking outfits were mixed, there were sharp looking artisanal white jackets with big shoulders. Some were knee-long, looking beautifully powerful. The Margiela-esque corsets made of leather ice-skateshoes in skin colors were attached to soft shirts, or mixed with skirts creating a confident look without being too severe. The golden leggings looked like armor All pieces were in soft colors – eggshell, skin, off-white – which gave the strong outfits an air of lightness.Sheer tops and pleated blouses covered more rigid pieces, making the outfits look not too serious. Evening dresses looked elegant, due to flowing materials. This collection proved that hard-edge fashion can be comfortable and fragile at the same time.
Cold Method Catwalk Fashion Show SS10
By Ivo Wiermans
A sharp looking suit, a well-fitted shirt, or the perfect jeans: a modern man can’t live without these essentials. Basic items he can easily mix for different events and which are fashionproof. Mark Ainsworth and Alex Jansen understood the power of basic, regarding their spring summer collection for Cold Method. The collection brought us the 9 aesthetics of a men’s wardrobe: T-shirt, shirt, suit, pants, jacket, sweatshirt, jeans, accesories and CM2 (cosmetics and other products to complete the Cold Method lifestyle).
The show started with a very James Bond worthy dark suit. More suits followed in soft colors like beige and white. Single blazers were casually mixed with printed shirts, shorts and sneakers. Even from a distance one could see the perfect tailoring and the outstanding quality of the materials. Sporty outfits looked perfect for a summer’s boat trip, proved by a double-breasted coat and some jackets in icy blue or sunny orange. See-through v-neck sweaters and fine woven cardigans in soft colors looked as comfortable as nightwear.
The collection got even more relaxed, when taking a closer look to the pants. These were straight fitted, sometimes even baggy. The designers of Cold Method seem to be sure about one thing: slim-fit is over.
Ilja Visser Catwalk Fashion Show SS10
Ilja Visser is growing fast. Instead of one collection, she has three different lines she presented during the first day of AIFW: Ilja (couture) , Ready to Fish (business line) and Valizz (affordable fashion). All collections have that relaxed, fluid silouet and a soft color-palet. Next year she will open her first boutique in Amsterdam. Valizz looked very wearable and commercial with soft pastels, fluid fabrics and easy pieces like simple jackets, jeans and wide trousers. Ready to wear consisted of dresses, jackets and skirts in softer colors and faded prints. Couture by Ilja is extreme volume in dresses but also pieces in summer-tweed.
Mexx by EnD Catwalk Fashion Show SS10
A collaboration between EnD by Eva and Delia and Mexx Europe bv marks the beginning of bold new moves for this international fashion brand. Mexx asked the EnD-duo to remix ten seasonal looks from Mexx, to be produced in the style of EnD. This collaboration is an experiment in ‘Mexxing’ things up, twisting the traditional and corrupting what is classic in fashion. Set aside the make-up – why did the models looked like clowns? – a Mexx-collection never looked so spicy and streetwise. Especially the graphic effects the ladies created by putting different fabrics and color together. It worked with the opening outfit (miniskirt & sweater), elegant tops and a sporty dress, but the knee length skirts and other dresses need some reworking. They looked frumpy and didn’t do anything good for the girls. As an experiment it worked out rather well.
Elsien Gringhuis Catwalk Fashion Show SS10
It was Elsien Gringhuis’ first show at the Amsterdam Fashion Week that she presented individually. Gringhuis studied at Artez in Arnhem and works for G-Star at the moment. What she showed at AIFW looks rather strict, with a clean cut silhouette, straight lines, minimal and very constructed. ‘Focus’ was her theme, a collection about all the stress and chaos we have to got through all day and the need to focus. Although it’s not certain she will produce her collection – because she is still looking for ateliers – you can buy a real Gringhuis soon at the Hema. The designer won the Hema-designcontest with her raincoat made of biological cotton and rubber coating.
Badgley Mischka Catwalk Fashion Show SS10
The American fashionduo Badgley Mischka showed their resort collection in collaboration with C’est Brillant. The combination looked perfect: the glamourous style of BM with the moviestar-style of the (sun)glasses. Badgley Mischka put that typical American edge in their collections: feminine, slick, colorful and very glitter&glamour. Exactly what you need on you cruise to the Bahamas.
Non by Kim Catwalk Fashion Show SS10
Inventorum Natura is the title of NON by Kim’s spring summer collection 2010. The third collection of Kim Bakker takes us to the realm of flesh eating plants. Brrr. She got inspired by the tantalizing tragedy of the victim that – once caught in the sweet sticky body – is destined to be digested. The collection reflects parts of this world, the agthered constructions and wired seams give the garments an organic and clean cut feel. A balance is created between smooth lightweight and textured materials which give the fluid layered silhouettes a feeling of motion.
DFF Prelude: Mattijs Catwalk Fashion Show SS10
July 22, 2009 by Joris
Filed under Amsterdam, Fashion, Featured Items
By Ivo Wiermans
It’s time for change! And we don’t refer to the legendary words spoken by Obama, but to the atmosphere at Prelude. You know, the seasonal event on the eve of Amsterdam Fashion Week, where young Dutch fashion talents show their newest collections. The young designers at Prelude brought a unanimous message. Long-lasting designs, with a focus on shape and excelling with simplicity, showed a new generation of designers that prefers high quality to short-term fashions
In the courtyard of hotel The Grand, Mattijs van Bergen was first to show his collection for spring/summer 2010. The designer, who is well-known for his elegant plissé dresses, chose to focus on shape. There were dresses like oversized shirts, outfits with big shoulders and couture-like jackets. Pleated elements were subtly converted in necklaces, blouses and lapels and more striking in beautiful pink, red and purple evening dresses. Outstanding pieces looked like waterfalls because of the draped fabrics. The collection felt relaxed and more wearable without lacking the elegant style in which Mattijs excels.
Antoine Peters Catwalk Fashion Show SS2010
With his collection ‘Turn your frown upside down’ Antoine Peters made a serious effort to make the fashion audience smile. And he succeeded, not only because the models looked funny with their clown-noses but also because of the collection full of smileys in graphics, fabrics, details and construction. The bright colors made us happy too. Beside the fun-theme, the collection looked rather grown up with T-shaped dresses and tunics. Special of the season is a shawl produced in collaboration with Moooi, the accessory will be available only next month in the Moooi Gallery in Amsterdam. Recently Antoine Peters was in the picture because of the costumes he designed for the latest edition of Arnhem Mode Biennale and his appearance in the book ‘100 new Fashion Designers’. Now, that makes us smile too.
Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Catwalk Fashion Show FW09
July 14, 2009 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Haute Couture, Paris
It was an haute coutureshow full of emotion, a collection produced on a shoestring and only made possible by the collective will and donated time and skills of the seamstresses, embroiderers, jewelers, milliners and shoemakers loyal to Christian Lacroix. Only the models were paid, €50 each according to French law, but they ended up in tears too. Lacroix didn’t cry, he said he wants to continue, maybe in a different way, with a smaller atelier. Het just cares about the women who do the job for him. The collection was sober and restraint, only in black and midnight blue and concentrated on shape and wearability. In al its purity it showed Lacroix’ craftsmanship. As the designer came out to lead he bride in the finale, the whole audience stood up to honour him. Bravo!
