Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2018 New York

It was within the context of luxury cars (Porsches, Bugattis, Jaguars, Ferraris) that Ralph Lauren’s claim of connection between clothes and cars resonated. Unlike some of the cars, revolutionary when created in terms of design and performance, the clothes didn’t attempt reinvention. Rather they oozed the timeless chic in which Lauren believes deeply and which, as the surroundings indicated, has worked well. The show opened with the tony men’s wear fabrics he loves — mixed tweeds, checks and plaids. The extensive passage featured a women’s range of dressed-up (bustier over pants) and dressed-down (relaxed jacket, pants). Men’s looks included a re-fabricated motorcycle jacket over shirt and tie and a double-breasted coat belted over lumberjack plaid sweater.

Ralph Lauren Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

Choosing a nautical theme for your SS show might not be the most refreshing or renewing thing. Yet Ralph Lauren gave his sailor chic collection just the right twist. Yes there were blue and white stripes all over, there were crispy white shirts and sailor hats, sweaters tossed over shoulders and standing collars. All ingredients any sophisticated French Riviera goer might already have in her closet for years (and years). But looks got an undated touch too. Like the cut-outs on a navy body hugging dress revealing a white cropped top underneath. Or the bright colored print on the side of a wide legged pair of trousers. Not to mention some layered white looks and a light brown leather on leather look sported by Maartje Verhoef. And then there were the wavy lines on some of the evening numbers. Elegant, feminine and fresh. The overall feel of the collection was still absolutely classic, preppy and wealthy. But just modern enough to rock the boat next summer.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2014

The theme of Ralph Lauren’s spring collection was Mod, with Sixties A-line shift-dresses in black, patent leather Mary Janes and knee socks. Almost all the looks came in black and white, from a three-piece pantsuit to a floral patent trench-coat. There were a few of the designer’s signature elegant pantsuits, but the black-and-white looks became repetitive fast. When color did finally enter the indian pharmacy picture, it was bright—lime green, acid yellow, neon orange for long dresses.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Designer Ralph Lauren looked at Russia for his fall 2013 collection, but also took some inspiration from Paris.

Lauren’s day looks drew from naval motifs, particularly an array of outerwear, from pea-coats to officer’s caots. These came in various proportions, sometimes cut away. Though most were black or navy, Lauren lightened the lineup with a roomy ivory topper. He also showed knits and poetic shirts with billowing sleeves.

As for the pants, Lauren went for a classic sailor motif in skinny stovepipes. His other favorites were Cossack pants shown in burgundy and navy, sometimes pleated for extra volume.

Lauren broke up the mannish influence with lovely fluid dresses in deep-toned velvets and a beautiful series of evening-gowns.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Ralp Lauren was inspired by far away exotic places, this time Spain or Latin America. Matador suits, serapes, ruffles, fringe—they all got the Lauren treatment.

Playing with black, white, red, and turquoise he started with soft tailoring in suede, some of which was accented with tooled leather details. Shawls and ponchos turned up in various forms, and dresses and skirts were hand-crocheted. Scarves knotted at the neck, glass bead necklaces, and studded leather mailbags completed the vivid picture.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York ss2012

Ralph Lauren took inspiration from the The Great Gatsby, the movie he designed the clothes for in 1974. When he designed the clothes it started a mini Jazz Age at that time and Lauren’s career took off. It seems the time is ripe for an updated version of this style, especially now Baz Luhrmann is busy with a remake starring Leonardo Dicaprio and Carey Mulligan.

Lauren loves the feminine/masculine mix and that shows. There were  wallpaper floral t dresses,  pastel silk pajama pants, and “vintaged” cashmere sweaters with fake moth holes. For accessories: raffia platform sandals, embroidered and fringed bags, and delicate scarves.  As for the masculine side:  pinstriped three-piece suits with cropped pants, shorts, full trousers and the leather Perfecto jacket. For the evening Lauren introduced silver flapper dresses and column gowns.

 

 

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011/2012

It seems like every fashion brand is focusing more and more on Asia. Fashion shows are held in Shanghai, extra shops are opened in Tokyo and collections have all kinds of Eastern references. Last season this was the case at Louis Vuitton and for next winter it’s Ralph Lauren who’s aiming at this new market.

Ralph Lauren showed a Oriental inspired autumn collection full of Chinese dragon patterns and black silk and colorful embroideries. His designs were long and sleek, his fabrics shiny and luxurious. The ‘China Girl’ cover which came out of the speakers completed our Oriental mood.

Besides the Asian touch all looks also had the Ralph Lauren appeal. The high waisted pants, the leather jackets, fur details and tuxedo’s all still breathed the classic, sophisticated style of the all American designer.

The collection clearly was Ralph Lauren’s interpretation of China. We’re curious if Asian women are really looking forward to wearing those dragon printed dresses (maybe a bit to literal?), but it was a fun show to watch.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

After a few strong seasons Ralph Lauren played it safe and also ‘on trend’ with a western inspired collection. I say safe, because this is the subject he’s good at and he did it before and it made him famous.

‘Little house on the prairie’-dresses were mixed with leather cowgirl pants, poet-blouses, leather jackets with fringes, jackets with lace inserts and Navajo-patterns for bags and vestst. Accessories were alike: belts with big buckles, silver chokers, hats and scarves.

Although The West is a theme during this New York Fashion Week (Rodarte, Donna Karan), the Ralph Lauren-collection didn’t add anything new or inspiring to what we already saw. But hey, it will sell anyway – especially if you’re not into minimalism or arty-farty-styles.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

After his ode to the American workers during the Depression, Ralph Lauren decided to take a more romantic road to fashion. The collection looked almost vintage Ralph Lauren, with its dark Edwardian touch, lots of velvet, black, burgundy and flowerprints.This is a style we know so well and which made him famous.

Ralph Lauren’s skill is to make the predictable look fresh. But he also to adds a discreet sexual vibe to male/female combinations. Jodhpurs curved to the waist and velvet vests were bodyhugging. The outerwear was plentiful, strong and mannish.

Long chiffon skirts and dresses reminded of Lauren’s favorite prairie-dresses, they were often mixed with long coats.

Trends ss2010: the overall opinion

They might seem quite unflattering and we usually think of them as most suitable for gardening or working on the field, but overalls are becoming more and more fashionable.

Ralph Lauren and Jean Paul Gaultier designed a few comfortable and stylish ones for spring. Of course they gave them their own twist.

Some of Ralph Lauren’s overall had stains and tears and some were made out of shiny satin.

JPG added his iconic cone-bra. There were overalls with and without sleeves. Most were made out of denim, yet Roberto Cavalli made one out of a transparent airy fabric and Hannah MacGibbon introduced a leather one for Chloé.

We have to admit those overalls do look very wearable and they combine perfectly with almost anything (t-shirts, blouses, tops). They might become a huge hit.  What’s your overall-opinion?

Tess van Daelen

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