The Best of Raf Simons for Jil Sander: 2006 – 2011

Designers come and go. Some stay longer than you expected. Some are more succesful than the other. Raf Simons surely set things in motion when he started working for Jil Sander. Looking at all the collections he designed for the house, you can see his confidence growing by the season. He took the time to develop his signature and blend it with the heritage of the house. The cut of the clothes, the silhouettes, the fabrics, the colors. For the first time in a long period the Jil Sander show was something to look forward to.

The last few seasons Simons experimented with couture-shapes and see what it brought us. Other designers got inspired and followed. The same happened with his color-blocking, the longer skirts, the stripes and the play with transparency. We’ve tried to find the best of Raf Simons for Jil Sander, and we realize there is so much more to show you.

Thankfully Raf Simons is not leaving the fashion-stage, we will see much more of him in the future. Maybe at Dior, but definitely at his own menswear-label. To be continued.

Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

After days of strict, streamlined and conservative menswear the boyish uniform of Raf Simons felt a bit refershing, although it’s kind of conservative too. To the press he said he’d felt like he wanted to change something with the idea of men’s clothes. He’d wanted to bring more energy, more excitement. Odd were the colored locks of hair hanging down the back of shirts, jackets and coats. Once again, Simons played with men’s dressing conventions with suit pants at the knee and styling shirts as outerwear over other shirts. The main statement was oversized tailoring: suit jackets and chunky overcoats.  Simons dared to use bold colors too. Chunky waffle-knit sweaters came in mustard yellow, lime green and cobalt blue. There was definitely a street feel in this collection.

Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Raf Simons’ own ss2012 collection was well balanced. A tailored black suit was the canvas on which the Belgian designer build his minimalistic vision, with roomy coats (and some tunics)  in mismatched checks or pastel-colors, sleeveless leather T-shirts, sleeveless knits with a small flower-print or shirts in contrasting black & white.

Especially the colorful checks added an upbeat character to this strict and minimal collection.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Raf Simons sent out another strong collection for Jil Sander. Coming fall it’s about streamlined ski-wear with a classic early 60’s twist and – again – couture-inspired volumes. In bright colors but also darker ones, like forest-green and blue. And in thick, dense fabrics, even puffed up like down.

The collection focused again on cut and shape. Simons started from the couture sensibility of spring but with a Sixties vibe. Ski-pants with hooded sweaters with ski-motifs opened the show, followed by waffled knits.  Then came the big clothes,  cut in dense, solid, bold-toned fabrics with considerable self-structure. Simons added more volume with a broadened dropped shoulder that fell into folds in back. He used this technique for coats and dresses,  sometimes with loose half-belts in front or back.

It was not an easy collection. But new fashion is never easy to congest and accept. But someone has to stir up things and Raf Simons is doing a good job. he started the whole colorstory that’s filling the streets at the moment. And the next change is volume and proportion. It’s just a matter of time.

Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Before the show of Raf Simons even had started, rumors about the designer leaving his commercial partner were already spreading around. And the rumors seemed true, but did not affect the show and the collection at all. Simons sent out a calm, yet inventive collection with a mix futurism (pants in black PVC, mohair aprons) and preppy college style (sweaters, checks, Fair Isle knits). Duffel coats, in camel and  brights, were the main statement. One voluminous version came in purple neoprene – worn with a sharp shirt and tie and a  scarf – while another cocoon-shaped design in tomato red fastened with a single closure at the neck.

Backstage the designer said he wanted to explore a mix of maturity and youth, and also pay homage to craftsmen.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

Wow, that was a real good Jil Sander-show. The way Raf Simons treats colors, the new minimalism but also the need for strong elegance proofs he is a true craftsman and creative, daring designer. Yes, the silhouette was exaggerated, yes the colors sometimes hurt the eyes and yes the skirts were maybe too long – but fashion can take a whole new direction with his ideas.

Simons focused at shape, volume, proportion and new materials and used couture as his vehicle. Skirts were long and sack shaped, trousers ultra-wide and some tops had a contrasting frill. This sounds very old fashioned haute couture – especially because it reminded of the old YSL and Givenchy – but Simons added a modern touch by mixing it with plain white T-shirts or a tank-top. Jackets had contrasting front edges, the long skirts seemed classic but had sensual high splits and the simple dresses with vertical stripes (in white and navy) looked modern and right on.

Besides shape, color was his most important message; so don’t be afraid of neon yellow, day glo orange, shocking pink, purple, green, electric blue or the exaggerated floral prints.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Set in an old park in the hills of Florence, Raf Simons sent out an energetic menswear-collection for Jil Sander thanks to the beautiful bright colors and vibrating stripes. I watched the Web stream – but even without being there the clothes looked crispy and clean and very upbeat. Color was the message, without trying too hard. They worked best when mixed together, like orange pants with a turquoise sweater or a purple coat mixed with pink, turquoise and nightblue. The patterns were surprising too, especially the multi-colored stripes that made a psychedelic effect and will definitely be adapted in the fast fashion-collections. Softer were the flowerprints, that gave a particular touch to the vibrant color-blocking.

The collection consisted of shorts (as seen in many other collections), casual jackets, shirts, trenchcoats and belts which gave  it all a sporty touch. Nice details: the reflecting spots at the back of jackets and the colored soles of the shoes.

Let’s hope men will catch up with it, at least with a  colorful shirt or coat – it will definitely make the sun come out.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Raf Simons

After two seasons of modern suits with that typical Belgian edge, Raf Simons pushed again the boundaries of menswear. He already played the game of closures at his collection for Jil Sander (with mixed results), but it worked out much better for his own fall collection. Still suits form the center part (but as the designer said earlier: he and his clients are grown up men now), Raf still favors dark colors, but he replaced the buttons with metallic magnetic closures and velcro strips which made a pretty tight silhouette and clean image.  Simons also re-made the traditional trench by separating the coat into halfs and using the lower half as a skirt or protective shield. Besides that he played an interesting graphic game with red, white and blue.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Jil Sander

Raf Simons still tries to push the boundaries of traditional menswear at Jil Sander without being silly or looking forced. By using the best fabrics and skills of experienced tailors he manages to present a collection that’s far ahead of others and also very daring. I mean: who would put mobile pockets at jackets or lift the waistline? This was a tailored wardrobe injected with energy, with a concrete focus on shape and a forthlooking approach, using texture and construction to define a confident masculinity.

Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Raf Simons is ready for a new decade and said good bye to the teenage-trip he’s been on from the beginning. He aims at a new man now, and individual who is ready for suits wich are luxe and sober but also likes high fashion items like a knit torso with cloth jacket shoulders. Simons even developed a logo: a snake in an S-shape around an R. Wow, he’s serious now. The snake came back in belts and as a print for sheer tops and trousers.

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