Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2017

Miucca Prada still believes in style as a mighty power to fight for women’s rights. She took traditional trappings of glamour — feathers and embroidery — and lavished them on everyday staples: pencil skirts, cardigans, tailored jackets, bear-hug outerwear, a chemise here and there. Often, these came in weighty fabrics — corduroy, thick knits, tweeds, shearling — put together in audacious collages of color and pattern, atop heels fastened with giant buttons or big, furry multicolored mukluks. Orangey tweed and leather jacket over bright yellow skirt with red embroidery and blue white feather hem? Cocktail dress with feathered bonnet? Prints done in collaboration with artist Robert McGinnis? Whatever their politics, fashion ladies will succumb to the seduction.

Model Focus: Aya Jones

Making your model debut exclusively at Prada (#holygrail)? Say hello to the 21 year old stunner Aya Jones, of Ivory Coast/French and British descent, discovered on the Rue du Rivoli in Paris. And how can you be mistaken with such endless legs, wide eyes, pillowy lips (buh-bye Kylie Jenner)and a heart-shaped face? She looks a bit like a younger version of Naomi Campbell, who happens to be her role model.

You may think this beautiful youngster has been there, done that, but it’s all yet to come. She’s the breakout star to rule fashion week. It was only for spring summer 2015 that she first set foot on the catwalk as a Prada exclusive and now she’s the face of their latest campaign. So you could’ve guessed after that first show, there was a huge line on her front door. For the last seven months she has been walking runway after runway; Viktor&Rolf, Giambattista Valli, Valentino, Dior, Nina Ricci, Paco Rabanne, Maison Martin Margiela, Sonia Rykiel, Valentino, Miu Miu, Valentino Sala Bianca 945 Haute Couture. And once you got the catwalks, you got the media. She already starred on the cover of Teen Vogue and Numéro and appeared in Japanese Vogue and CR Fashion Book.

At such a young age she has already conquered a huge part of the fashion landscape, but there are still many mountains to climb. ‘It would be a dream to have a cosmetics campaign and to work with Chanel, Dior, and Louis Vuitton’, she tells Interview Magazine. We would definitely make a bet on this one. Who’s in?

Prada Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2016

Tailoring was the anchor in the menswear-collection of Prada. Sport jackets, dusters and topcoats were trim, breezy and unlined, made distinctive with contrast stitching and the freewheeling way Prada paired them with short shorts. Zip-neck racer knits and filmy silk shirts, meanwhile, boasted naïve graphics representing that long-eared creature, or race cars.

The latter motif mushroomed into pants and zippered blousons resembling pilots’ uniforms, banded or piped in safety orange and patched with utility pockets. The shorts also came in leather, shown with plunging tanks or boxy, zippered jackets.

 

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2015

For fall 2015 Miuccia Prada wanted to make what women like: bows, colors, decorations. On one condition: it had to look her way. And so it did. Her vision of prettiness fused retro shapes with technical foam jersey for a mix of past-future dissonance.
Prada opened with neat Sixties shapes she’s worked before, but now in technic foam, mixing girly and acid colors to quirky effect (“Soft Pop” was a title for the collection). Trim jackets had schoolboy spunk over cropped bell-bottoms, and shared the runway with lady coats and beautiful high-waisted dresses in cuts derived from midcentury couture. Again, the designer veered from the obvious, perverting the look into baby-doll tunic-over-pants ensembles.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear FW2015

Dutchie Maartje Verhoeff walked the Prada show this week. Not in Miuccia’s latest menswear designs though. No, the 17-year old strutted around in Prada’s pre-fall womenswear collection. As, for the first time, Miuccia simultaneously showed fall menswear and pre-fall womenswear. “Gender is a context and context is often gendered,” read the notes, as Miuccia explained this genderbleding had been on her mind for a while. Yet in stead of what you might expect (women dressed up in smart suits) there was a clear division. The girls were elegant women, dressed in playful, yet seductive dresses, short gloves, bows and handbags included. The men were buttoned up in business chic, simple suits. What both styles had in common was their simplicity and elegance. But shades (gray, camel, navy, black) materials (nylons and tweeds) and details (waist belts, double breasted) had some common ground as well. It was a modest collection, but a strong one nevertheless.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

When it comes to show backdrops it’s hard to top Chanel and it’s enormous decors. Still, Prada has been creating some impressive ones for it’s shows over the past few year. This week lilac coloured sand-dunes formed the backdrop of Prada’s summer collection. Although summer was not the first word coming to mind when looking at the passing creations. Due the moody vibe of the show, the choice of heavy and rich fabrics (the knitwear, the fur, the leather, the brocades) and the first half of the collection containing mostly dark coats autumn might be more of a seasonal match. Nevertheless designs were impressive in the way only Miuccia Prada can impress. Coats, a lot of them, had obvious topstitching and most clothes with undone frayed ends had a patchwork design to them. With 30 different types of brocades worked into the collection, creating modern pieces of reproduced antique textiles. Something old turned into something new; luxurious yet undone. Elegant earrings, knee socks and oddly shaped blog boots put the Prada S/S2015 look together. A look returning models (after quite a period of absence) Gemma Ward (opening) and Lara Stone (closing) were able to pull off fabulously.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014

What looked like a setting of an exotic holiday changed  with the threatening sound of a military helicopter at the start of the show. Miuccia Prada wanted to create a dark and menacing feeling with het ss2014-show she told Womens Wear Daily backstage. Her story, that a conflict-torn globe makes finding a carefree place almost impossible, made for a daring collection and a show as captivating as a film noir set in pre-war Honolulu.

The collection: Hawaiian shirts, broken suits, satin-like blousons, and leisure shoes cloaked in rubber. The models looked as if they dressed themsleves in panic and just grabbed some clothes they could find. The colors were dark for a spring collection, as is noticed in more Milanese collections. Prada spiced up her palette with bold and lively prints of jungle foliage and pinup girls, even putting them onto leather briefcases and weekender.

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The silhouette was very relaxed in double-breasted or single-breasted jackets. They looked great over silky printed shirts and full-legged trousers.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Wet hair, bare shoulders, a subtle cleavage and cool sunnies; Prada’s girls, who appeared from a mysterious shadowy backdrop (with birds and a cat), looked quite sensual today. Yet at the same time their looks breathed old school glamour and raw elegance. The girls sported tweed dresses thrown over long sleeve tops, oversize bags, bold shoes and ladylike coats with accentuated waists and statement making dimpled fur cuffs. There were checks and stripes; continuing the current graphic trend.
Though given a modern twist the looks has a cinematic forties vibe. Deep winter shades were put in the mix with light pastels. No combination we would soon leave the house in, but after tonight it might just become our most favourite colour match.
And that is in fact Miuccia’s power; she can present new, unexpected, slightly off styles you would never come up with or even hate at first sight and turn them into the most desirable looks for the upcoming season within a few months. Right on time, before we start shopping for our new wardrobe.

Prada Menswear catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2013

Were they in a hurry getting dressed? Prada’s men came up with their shirts untucked and an out of bed hairdo. Wearing checked shirts, cashmere sweaters, colored leather jackets and woolen coats, they made a studentlike impression. Even though some of the models college period probably was a long time ago. The designs took us back a few decades, the seventies perhaps. But still Miuccia managed to make them appear modern. And, more importantly, the clothes, which Miuccia described as “perfect classics of the moment” looked extremely wearable. “Fashion is basically about what you want to wear,” she said. And who would not want to wear that chocolate brown suit or that stunning camel coat with the bright red collar?

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Toughness and the poetic part. That was where Prada’s collection for ss2013 was all about. To WWD she explained that she wanted to mix these two together, ‘because this is mainly what wiomen have to deal with in reality. The clothes are the expression of this impossible dream’.

The clothes were neither overtly romantic nor wistful, the shapes almost severe.  The first look was a short black dress emblazoned with an off-center panel decorated with two white long  flowers.  Then followed a parade of similarly crafted suits, dresses, jackets over knee shorts, their printed and appliquéd flowers providing a sweet touch to the severe shapes. You could see references to traditional Japanese kimonos, hakamas and footwear, as well as hints of lingerie. There was also some color: dark green, navy, splashes of red, and pastels.

 

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