Philip Lim Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Phillip Lim’s explained in his shownotes that he had been exploring “cut-up,” a Dada literary technique later popularized by William Burroughs and then appropriated by musicians such as David Bowie and Radiohead.  Cut-up is another word for nonlinearity. In fashion Cut-up could also mean mix ‘n’ match. Like Philip Lim did.
Take his interpretation of sheers. One ofe the main trends for ss2013 is see-through clothes which is not an easy concept to sell. But Lim, using obscuring plaid or woodland scene appliqués, made the look modest enough to be convincing. The silk sheers were among the standout pieces as were the patchwork denim, shredded khakis and his printed, corded silk biker jackets.

Phillip Lim Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Phillip Lim challenged himself this time with a graphic collection in mostly black and white, with some added neutral tones and some brights at the end. The suiting was beautifully tailored, the perfect middle ground between nonchalant and professional. The tapered trousers and soft blazers remained. Lim started with the idea of comic books, which resulted in a duality of shapes, creating a slimming, curvaceous tromp l’oeil silhouette. It also played out well with the  houndstooth pattern.

Lim  introduced chunky knits and tweedy greys. More texture was developed through cable detailing on sweaters, filmy transparent panels,  , and sheeny damask.  Towards the end, Lim welcomed colors, like blues, deep green and tangerine.

Philip Lim Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

Every fashioncity has its darlings. Philips Lim is one of the darlings of New York. Not because he is so brilliant and original, but because he knows how to sell clothes. The Chinese American Phillip Lim has a major in business at California State University and that shows.

American fashion generally puts pragmatism ahead of pyrotechnics; Lim more than most. That can make his shows seem like a series of ticked boxes rather than an experience. Mohair? Got it. Céline-esque camel drenched minimalism? Check.   Those winter 2010 trends kept on coming. Jersey, fur trims, trouser suits, low-shine sequins, sheepskin-lined biker jackets, animal prints. Sometimes it makes you a bit grumpy because it is almost predictable.

After launching his label six years ago, Lim now sells in more than 400 stores around the world and it’s not hard to see why. In real life the clothes work just fine. Lim has a knack for combining cute with chic.