Maison Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Since Martin himself is no longer on board Maison Martin Margiela has been rediscovering itself. Today’s collection was proof of that as it was not the most coherent line up. Yet the fashion house did present some strong designs that proudly carried the name of the French fashion label. Oversize and menswear seemed to be the red line in the show the houses described as a “rally” in the show notes. Overall, suits, pinstripe waistcoats (and quite a few other ones – patent leather and fur – too). Black and white looks were given a hand painted yellow or pink twist as more color followed on patent orange and red leather and strangely crafted, multicolored mesh tops. The finale of floor sweeping panel dresses that seemed to have some kind of ad texts on them appeared to be a whole other chapter of the Margiela fall collection.

 

 

 

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Owens chose a heavy theme for his fall/winter show. Battle-scarred heroism was the inspiration for his signature big coat, boots and T-shirt and a full range of black and white creations. His pale models with the frizziest hardo’s could be seen sporting kimonos, asymmetric tunics and coats with larger than life stitches (which were in fact created by traditional basket-weaving techniques). Large gloves, high standing collars and a few fur details accessorized the looks. Like so many designers Rick Owens opted for a Japanese influenced collection. Yet he managed to use this popular theme in a very unique way, inspired by his notion of heroic grace under pressure.

 

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers were the style-icons Dries van Noten referred to while explaining his collection. For fall 2013 he plays with masculinity and femininity, something he enjoyed in former collections too. That play is a subtle thread through the whole season, Instead of fur Van Noten pleayed with feathers. He mixed mannish white shirts with a navy skirt over gray flannel pants, That sounds rayther boring, but the effect was in the details: a necklet of paste diamonds, a skirt with a trail of ostrich-plumes anchored by crystal. There wwere also chunky knits, cable sweaters, varsity-stripe skirts, brocade skirts and plus-zize overcoats – all looking glamorous.  There was also a sexy vibe, not in your face-sexy but subtle.