Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The Rodarte-collection was all about medieval and fantasy role-playing games. It seemed a statement in power-dressing, the show referenced armored warriors, road warriors and also……. Nicolas Ghesquière. Short, strapless dresses shown layered over tight, printed turtlenecks had bodices shaped like partial octagons that jutted away from the body like a breastplate. Other variations on the armor motif included waistlines embellished with draped chains and corsetlike metal embroidery on long, fluid gowns. Also: bohemian bikers in robust black leather, including lace-up pants and quilted jackets with ample fringe and colorful silk trim.

The dominant silhouettes — short, structured dresses; boxy tops worn with skinny pants — and colors — teal, black, orange — are commonly associated with the term “futuristic,” especially with matching shoes. Yet the mix of materials and construction suggested a lot of handwork and gave the look an artisanal touch.

Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The spring summer 2013 collection of Donna Karan was about nature: sand, water, light. Abd it was light in every sense, floaty fabrics, slithering shapes and colors like dawn-sky blue and rich sunset pink. The silhouette – fitted-on-top, full-below-the-waist  – was borrowed from the world of ballet, or the 1950s.

Posing at New York Fashion Week SS13 (Streetwear)

Impression of streetwear at New York fashion week spring / summer 2013 season.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW 2012

The idea of real strength was the central theme for Francisco Costa and his  fall collection for Calvin Klein. The designer was inspired by Bauhaus and the Bauhaus woman of the 1920s.  The result was  subtle with clothes in ultra-feminine silhouettes starting with a black wool mohair A-line coat cinched at the waist with a wide silver belt. Another example came with the cropped burnt-orange cashmere sweater worn over a matching shift dress.

Costa used thick wools for coats, but also for some dresses, which looked a bit heavy. Better were the black dresses mixed with leather, sometimes it was just an insert, another time is was the back, or a skirt.  The overall effect was powerful, but the clothes also had a softer side: ladylike and charming, even with a Fifties couture touch.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Who could work out a theme like the popular tv-show Downtown Abbey better than Ralph Lauren? The man who secretly seemt to be an Englishman living the countrylife.

The show opened with casually elegant men’s wear looks all in mixes of tweeds, plaids and checks. In a season where fabric-mixes play an important role his combinations felt natural. The styling was very Downtown Abbey, but the pieces were versatile. A leather motorcycle jacket felt as right in the mix as a spencer. Coats came in various forms,  from herringbones and plaids to ocelot-printed shearling.

The rest of the show was all about the timeless elegance of black and gold.

Proenza Schouler Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Gone was the retro kitch of last season, it was hello to a more minimalist theme at Proenza Schouler for fall 2012. The dus had said they took inspiration from their trip to Peru and Bhutan. The show opened with crisp white cottons.  Big boxy jackets, shirtdresses and skirts were  flat, precise layers that folded across the body with uneven hems and workwear details.
After the extremes, a more understandable part came with natural shapes, including suit jackets and stiff wrap skirts made from intricately woven leather in red, black and gold.
The show ended on a distinct Oriental note. The designers vacationed in Bhutan in October when the country was focused on its king’s wedding. They were taken with the colors and patterns of the traditional national garb, which inspired the elaborate brocades they used for  short dresses with stiffened, arched hems, and a sweatshirt done in quilted silk embroidered with two exotic birds.

 

Jeremy Scott Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

The rainbow spectacle Jeremy Scott presented yesterday looked back to the nineties, and at moments to the seventies, and maybe further away.  There were sweat suits, stretch dresses, and leggings printed with computer screen shots and instant-message emoticons. “We use them to communicate our emotions,” Scott explained to the press. “I’m angry, I’m happy, I’m horny, I feel kind of flirty. That’s now a legitimate answer.”

Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

The fall collection of Philosophy di Alberta Ferreti was an ode to the young professional which resulted in  a strong collection of polished, professional clothes, layered with feminine, modern touches. Crisp white power suits cinched at the waist, formfitting white dresses in a slightly stricter silhouette and chic coats. That, along with several other pieces, were perfectly suited for a boardroom meeting. For high-glamour moments, she suggested several metallic and PVC dresses.

Preen Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi were inspired by Beatrix Potter’s botanical illustrations, Victorian-era scrapbooks and abstract expressionists. The result was a cool collection, with a heavy use of prints, texture and color on flirty tops and skirts paired with two-tone tailored separates and knitted sweaters.

Narciso Rodriguez Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Narciso Rodriguez used his strong construction skills, layering together different colors and fabrics for pieces with a Japanese feel, like the draped kimono effect on an orange silk top with a deep red skirt that was wrapped. Sometimes it seemed like two dresses were layered into one. His new accessories collection, which made its debut on the runway, was a strong addition and featured color-blocked gloves and functional handbags in exotic skins and suede.

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