Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

For his fall collection Peter Copping felt inspired by a seventies Nina Ricci ballet ad. He used the soft side of the world of ballet to create his contemporary yet classic looks. As the first models appeared on the red runway, lit by red lights, walking to the sound of a live piano (by Katia and Marielle Labèque) the right mood was set. Copping’s Parisian chic models looked flawless portraying some of his ultra-feminine silhouettes. They wore pencil skirts and cigarette pants, A line coats and strapless evening gowns in simple (yet perfect) shades of ivory, nude, red and black. Accentuated waists, bustiers, long gloves, perfect red lips and cute headbands brought an extra dose of romance to their appearances. Copping added modern touches in the form of unfinished dress details, visible bra straps a fur lined parka and a few bare bellies on sight. Just to provide the collection from becoming a full on back to the seventies ad time travel.

 

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Peter Copping seemed to have turned a new page at Nina Ricci. He added some edge to the normally so soft and feminine label, or, in his own words, brought a bit of London to Paris.

He opened the show with a full black look; a jacket and a skirt underneath which Manon Leloup wore a mesh top and a harness detail. A touch of bondage, yet still chic enough to fit the label’s heritage.

What followed were slightly undefined layered dress with ruffles and fringes in pink, black, navy and a few pastel shades. They had a certain twenties feeling to them, although the models’ waists were too accentuated for that.

Sweet skirt suits and polka dot dresses in shiny gray and nude were funked up by multiple chunky chain necklaces. A sheer polka dot top worn with a playful hairy skirt looked daring.

It seems Copping took the right amount of risk as he made sure he kept everyone’s attention throughout the show, without completely shocking the fashion crowd.

 

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

‘Nostalgia for the present’ was the theme of the Nina Ricci collection. It was about young girls playing dress-up in their mother’s and grandmother’s clothes, as Peter Copping told the press. This translated through tops with too long sleeves, extra large skirts and some of the dresses which were one size too big.

It made the models look like dolls. Dolls dressed in chic, but scruffy designs. Like slipdresses patched together with tweed and lace. Or somewhat destroyed jackets with fringes all over.

Though most of the looks were very ladylike, we also got a bit of a sporty vibe. Especially one of the last outfits, a sheer houndtooth skirt and jacket had sporty chic written all over it.

In this collection too it was all about mixing different materials, patchwork really. Wool and fur, lace and tweed, leather and satin, for the ultimate luxury looks with a bit of an edge.

 

 

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Peter Copping presented and very chic and very French collection at Nina Ricci. But is was also charming and flirting with that typical Sixties haute couture vibe. The silhouette was curvy, the clothes bejeweled and the straw cage hats added an elegant touch.  Starting with constructed lingerie, Copping showed suited looks and dresses, both with full skirts and an hourglass silhouette, in laces, cloqués and printed jacquards. He embellished with delicate patchworks and encrustations of high-sparkle embroideries.

The prints were definitely retro, since the came from the archive of Zina de Plagny,  who’d done a lot of work for the house founder.

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

For the first time since Olivier Theyskens had left Nina Ricci the brand was on the official schedule of the Paris Fashion Week. That must have been a relief for Peter Copping.

With his second Nina Ricci collection he wanted to ‘appeal and relate to different types of women’, he said. Yet the ladies we encountered at his show were not that diverse. In their below the knee dresses they all looked like sophisticated, up-town girls.

The fall collection, inspired by the Belle Epoque/Bausch had the same romantic feeling as the Ricci spring collection, though there was more contrast visible this time. Woollen coats were combined with airy transparent tops. Tulle and leather were mixed in several looks as well.

Many outfits were decorated with flowers and had feminine details like ruffles, pleats and lace. It all looked very graceful. Still the flowers were a bit overwhelming on some dresses.

The final dresses were, apart from some cutouts and transparent parts, very winterproof. They touched the floor and were worn with large overcoats of the same length. Those dresses and coats surely will have to be shortened for the average women, cause even the feet of the tall models were not visible any longer.

Some say Copping still has to learn how to let his own voice speak after many years at Louis Vuitton. But we think he already did a good job. Some of the long dresses might just end up being worn at the Oscars this weekend.

Trends ss2010: the nude-look

When we look at the use of color in the spring/summer collections it appears most designers were very modest. Not many of them used bright colors for their clothes. Instead they chose black or white, pastelshades, ivories  or nudes. We already saw the nude-look last season but this time it was more present then ever. Peter Copping proved himself as the king of the nudes in his collection for Nina Ricci. His models were dressed in  different shades of nude from head to toe. Even their accessories had the nude-look going on. Roberto Rimondi and Tommaso Aquilano only used four different shades for their Gianfranco Ferré collection, nude being one of them. They designed some pretty cocktail-dresses in transparent shades. Almost every collection had some nude pieces.  The nudes made most outfits look ultra-feminine and slightly romantic. Unfortunately it also made many models look pale. But that won’t stand in the way of the nude-look becoming even more successful next season. (Tess van Daelen)

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

For the Nina Ricci SS2010 collection a new designer was in charge. Peter Copping, who has worked for Louis Vuitton, showed off his designer skills. As seen in many more collections for next spring/summer Copping used lots of nudes. There were some very cute frilly dresses made from tule, which had a lot of volume. Many of the dresses had multiple layers and collars adorned with tule. Those details gave the designs a romantic feeling. Prints were shown in only in one outfit. A floral printed dress was combined with a more subtle transparent cape. Also silky and lace fabrics were shown. The models carried perfectly matching clutches. They wore their hair in knots with some strings  all over their face. At the end of the show Copping combined the nudes with black and navy blue. Overall he designed a wearable collection in line with what Nina Ricci stands for. (Tess van Daelen)

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show FW09

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show SS09

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show FW08