Nieuw Jurk SS2014 Amsterdam Fashion Week

A fashion show presented by Dutch porn star Bobbi Eden? We knew we were in for a treat at this one. Groaning sounds when we entered the rooms, porn magazines and condoms in the goodiebags on our chair.. and the show had not approved viagra even started yet! It turned out it was not really about the clothes; Nieuw Jurk just held a cheerful little porn party for the fashion minded. With models wearing colorful wigs, the highest platform shoes, fur boots & necklaces, candy underwear and latex accessories there was little focus on the actual designs. Yet there were tees, leggings, shorts, jackets and pants covered with symbols of smileys and tongues, and words like SEX, NEW JERK and FUCK BUDDY. After a latex umbrella kind of pink creation the designer herself came on carrying a pink playtoy in her hands and the party was complete. The audience went wild, though some journalists looked a little flabbergasted.

AFW FW2012 LAB-Show: Furansu & Nieuw Jurk

During the third LAB- show it was time for fashion labels Nieuw Jurk and Furansu to show their collections.

Nieuw Jurk
It’s not easy these days, especially during this financial crisis, to work in the cultural area. But we have to make the best of it and support it the best we can, must designer Esther Meijer has thought. The designer graduated in 2004 from ArtEZ in Arnhem and showing here for the first time, is not pessimistic at all these times although she’s also struggling sometimes starting her new label. ‘I’m an optimistic person and although the difficulties these days, with this collection I want to show in a humorous way that you can make it work.’

Her current collection is named Krisis. To finance the collection she came up with the idea to use crowdfunding. And with success. The label raised half of their money via their website and half by subsidies. Although the sober name of this collection,  she showed very colorful pieces. All unisex, her trademark, and multi- functional.  ‘You can wear all these clothes in many ways. With some you can zip off the sleeves, others are reversible. And it’s for both men and women, very androgyn. Just like myself.’  She used different fierce hues and fabrics, like the body-con lycra dresses with some cut outs or patches on places that accentuate the shapes of the body. And not just patches, if you take a good look, you see these round patches form the eyes of a smiley face, happy or sad. It’s up to you what you make of it.

Furansu
Also showing for the first time at the Amsterdam Fashion Week is knitwear label Furansu. The two young Chinese designers behind the label, Annie Ching and Kay Lai, have known each other for years but have been working together since 2010. Both studied fashion across the world, he in the US and she in the Netherlands, but two years ago they, both graduated by the time,  decided to join forces. And it worked out really well. Their label is known for their well executed, timeless knitwear but always with a contemporary edge. ‘I like knitwear so much because I like to work with a lot of different fabrics and textures. They way it looks and feels is very characteristic’, Annie says.

Today they showed a collection based on German dancer Pina Bausch, tells Annie. ‘I saw a picture of her and got a lot of inspiration. In her way of dancing and expressing you see a lot of interesting contradictions and the one that got me the most was the one between strong and feminine. And these things we also used in our current collection.’ It resulted in some heavy knitwear but with soft, feminine elements. Like the long, knitted dress with the transparent sleeves. Or a dark blue jumper revised with a plastic topcoat in the front. ‘We like to use different twists in our clothes.’