Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Francisco Costa closed New York fashion week with a collection that had a strong sexual vibe. He opened with a black satin conical bustier dress, the model’s belle poitrine outlined in silver. All signs pointed to the bust as this collection’s erogenous zone. But Costa didn’t ignore the waist or the legs, either. Peplums played a starring role, and narrow belts accented most of the looks.
Costa also played with fabric, adding a white lining to the black mesh he used for a skirtsuit which produced a vibrating moiré effect.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Ralp Lauren was inspired by far away exotic places, this time Spain or Latin America. Matador suits, serapes, ruffles, fringe—they all got the Lauren treatment.

Playing with black, white, red, and turquoise he started with soft tailoring in suede, some of which was accented with tooled leather details. Shawls and ponchos turned up in various forms, and dresses and skirts were hand-crocheted. Scarves knotted at the neck, glass bead necklaces, and studded leather mailbags completed the vivid picture.

First View New York Womenswear SS2013: Workwear

The workwear-theme is a direction that is going to fly at retail. Uptown clothing with slight hints of couture sensibility, fueled with a youthful vibe. Wearable clothes with an almost unfinished looseness designed for the freedom of movement. Altuzarra introduces a cape-jacket featuring sleeves with air vents. We are all pretty sure that this will be one of the most copied attributes coming seasons. From neat, upbeat authentics, twisted traditional bikers to cut-up, nonlinear patchworks, it is all about tough versus tender, showing bold square and male outlines that are nipped at the waist, schoolgirl short, crisp white collared and even showing hints of lace trimming

Altuzarra buckles up as well as buttons down which makes an exiting contrast, where Rag & Bone shows Victorians on Safari, spicing biker classics with sweet romance. The Sahara shaded Belstaff collection shows the sensual side of its motor-cross heritage.

And there is more, from the hooded tent-dresses of Yigal Azrouel to the patchwork denims and shredded khakis of Phillip Lim. All extremely shoppable.

Streetfashion Womenswear New York SS2013 Day 6

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Kenzo-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York  Fashionweek, season spring/summer 2013.

Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The spring summer 2013 collection of Donna Karan was about nature: sand, water, light. Abd it was light in every sense, floaty fabrics, slithering shapes and colors like dawn-sky blue and rich sunset pink. The silhouette – fitted-on-top, full-below-the-waist  – was borrowed from the world of ballet, or the 1950s.

Streetfashion Womenswear New York SS2013 Day 5

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Kenzo-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York  Fashionweek, season spring/summer 2013.

Philip Lim Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Phillip Lim’s explained in his shownotes that he had been exploring “cut-up,” a Dada literary technique later popularized by William Burroughs and then appropriated by musicians such as David Bowie and Radiohead.  Cut-up is another word for nonlinearity. In fashion Cut-up could also mean mix ‘n’ match. Like Philip Lim did.
Take his interpretation of sheers. One ofe the main trends for ss2013 is see-through clothes which is not an easy concept to sell. But Lim, using obscuring plaid or woodland scene appliqués, made the look modest enough to be convincing. The silk sheers were among the standout pieces as were the patchwork denim, shredded khakis and his printed, corded silk biker jackets.

Tommy Hilfiger Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Tommy Hilfiger and his team brushed up two classic themes – safari and nautical – and made it into an upbeat and interesting collection. It was big and lively, with new  interpretations of sailcloth, stripes, and fisherman knits, among other staples of the seafaring look. The oversized red, white, and blue suit jackets, slouchy patchwork denim, and swinging tent dresses boasting sexy open backs looked refreshing and good. And many of the pieces benefited from unexpected finishes, such as the boxy navy-striped sailor’s tee, with a slick, stiff coating of wax. Yet for all the emphasis on the American palette, there were a great deal of washed-out sandy tones, too. They looked crisp and clean, though not obviously safari-esque, on cable knits and summery leathers.

Lacoste Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

It was tennis that inspired Felipe Oliveira Baptista for his ss2013 collection for Lacoste. He repeated an abstract version of rackets, balls, an umpire’s chair, and a pattern of folded polos as a print on shirts, pants, and parkas. The color palette matched perfectly: cobalt blue and  orange intensified the shades of summer. Baptista also tweaked the house’s more classic looks, cutting polo shirtdresses looser and working them in bold color blocks and mesh. The clear plastic jackets over cropped tops and miniskirts were especially fun, as was the sexy black leather minidress embossed with alligators.

Jason Wu Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The models that wore Jason Wu’s new ss2013 collection could have walked out of a Helmut Newton-picture. And the photographer was indeed one of Wu’s inspirations for this collection. So that means lots of leather and lace and sexy clothes, nude and black with leather harnesses, black net veils and deep red lipstick.

A point d’esprit bra ­— Wu collaborated with La Perla on the innerwear pieces — topped a short flounced leather skirt with laser-cut embroidery; a sleeveless white blouse with black lace inserts went with leather shorts. Wu softened the look a bit with lace blouses and cigarette trousers, and sheer and severe dresses.

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