The Big Round Up Womenswear SS 2014, Part 3

This is the third and last part of the 9 big trends we spotted for the coming spring-season: Tribal, Showgirls and Understated.

TRIBAL

From left to right: Missoni, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Givenchy, Missoni, Givenchy

Make way for the fashion tribes. It was all feathers and fringe, African inspired patterns and crafted textiles. At Missoni a subliminal strand of exotica trailed through the collection embracing tribal artisanship and textile crafts; Monclers Gamme Rouge touches on the feathery froth of the urban jungle, celebrating diversity in a multiracial catwalk and a natural assimilation of urban cultures; Givenchy shows the car crash of  two cultures—the fragility of Japan and the draping of Africa – brewing a hot and exquisite mixture of African romance and Japanese elegance and fragility.

 

UNDERSTATED

From left to right: Hermès, Salvatore Ferragamo, Donna Karan, Stella McCartney, Paul Smith

There is value in simplicity, in effortless and sophisticated silhouettes, impactful and strong in execution. Hermès shows the look particularly long, lean, light and relaxed, executed in a late Seventies vibe; Salvatore Ferragamo makes it polished in an unpretentious way; Donna Karan shows the fundamentals of a beautiful line up, showing languid dresses in an inviting palette; Stella McCartney shows easy feminine shapes, designed on instinct, staying true to her aesthetic;  Where Paul Smith shows a sexy, shrugged-on attitude and a carefree confidence.

SHOWGIRLS

From left to right: Rodarte, Julien Macdonald, Miu Miu, buying viagra Roberto Cavalli, Louis Vuitton

Dressed to face the spotlights. Rodarte exclaims “Los Angeles” – staging fringed brocade bras and satin leopard diner jackets; Julien MacDonald shows a metropolis-reminiscent body matching his glambassador status, his motto – “you can’t have enough of glitter!’; Miu Miu displays a rebellious view on femininity – pretty and perverse, the classics of a bad girl; Roberto Cavalli keeps it savvy and seductive, in clingy, webby laces and repurposed reptiles – telling stories of silver-screen dreaminess; Where Louis Vuitton tries to awaken “the showgirl in all of us’ with an emphasis on fearless and fabulous denim with crafty lace patchworks.

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The Big Round Up Womenswear SS 2014, Part 2

This is the second part of our Round Up for the coming season, which focuses on the designers’ favorite print for ss2014 – Flowers – and the glamor of shiny fabrics.

SHINE & SHAPE

From left to right: Rodarte, Prabal Gurung, Balenciaga, Ports 1961, Christian Dior

This is all about personal fixations and idealized heroins acting on a contemporary stage. Rodarte reveals tacky satins with  faint 80s references on a sunset strip and a Hollywood boulevard in outfits that show stardom and cool couture confidence; Prabal Gurung shows urban glam in Marilyn Monroe inspired dresses and outfits; Balenciaga sculpts to go where couture and twenty-first-century technology meet; Ports 1961 merges the bold and the boxy with silk, satins and lace; Where Christian Dior concludes that respect for the past is all well and good – but the future won’t wait…

 

THE FLORIST.01

From left to right: Antonio Marras, Aquilano Rimondi, Christopher Kane, Dries Van Noten, Hermès

Botanical gorgeousness was all around. At Antonio Marras with otherworldly fashion sensibility; At Aquilano Rimondi jewel-like in its coloring, couture like in its obsessive polish and exotic in its pattern; Christopher Kane shows flower activism “We live because of flowers and trees”, his spreading blossoms show a lush physicality and he emphasises viagra online pharmacy cheap the flowers’ reproductive capabilities; Dries van Noten finds paintings of bulbous tulips at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, he translates them, as if stenciled by magic, onto cloth; He might have met the Hermès team there – scanning the same sources.

 

THE FLORIST.02

From left to right: Comme des Garçons, Mary Katrantzou, Jonathan Saunders, Preen By Thornton Bregazzi

Here sweetness comes with en eerie edge. Comme des Garçons looks nearly pretty, in pink floral nursery patterns; Mary Katrantzou pumps up the psychedelia of her prints, showing florals exaggerated with embroidery; All-new Summer of Love for Jonathan Saunders, showing psychedelic sunsets and giant globes that glow like alien suns while trance music drowsily drones and opium poppies shimmer on organza starburst floral prints, all to show perverse delight; Where Preen shines brightly with foil silk floral anoraks and shiny pink shifts in cellophane nylon.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

The Big Round Up Womenswear SS 2014 Part 1

 

Against the chaotic backdrop of modern times we witness more extreme fashion scenarios this season. After a rather calm start in New York, with safe recycling of the successful and proven of previous seasons, creative energy was unleashed in Milan and a more dynamic spirit came to full strength arriving in Paris. There we experienced a mind-blowing climax during a happening loaded with raging energy staged by Rick Owens.

We sense the spirit of activism. Obvious in all quotes and messages boldly embedded in clothes that are both dynamic and wearable. Fashion used as a billboard for rage, concern, care, as well as joy. Designers tend to dive deeper into the context of their collections, want to give meaning to their actions and draw strong narratives that speak to the imagination.

Empowerment is one of the more politically driven manifestos. Women in general, women in Africa – from Alexander McQueen, Lanvin, Céline and most obvious at Prada – and there are more…

A booming interest in art conveys a sense of unbridled energy and optimism. Paint is dragged, dabbed, pulled and splattered across garments. Clothes are used as a canvas and art on stage is used as a backdrop for calm and beautiful clothes.

Africa provides key inspiration, fringe and a tribal beat as the theme of the season. The echo of Africa is omnipresent. As mentioned above, reflecting on the fate of women, but also on its cultural vibrancy, its folklore and rich aesthetics – designers place it in a new context and translate it into high fashion looks. Let’s hope the interest is sustained, translated into positive action and that something is in it for Africa….

We are entering a brave new world in which science and technology are the driving forces behind new innovation across the design industry. Balmain and Céline are among the designers who show impressive examples of technical fashion textile innovation. With hypermodern materials and an energetic attitude, sport was one of the stories that engulfed the runways.

We listed 9 strong influences straight off the international catwalks in New York, London, Milan and Paris.
ARTWORKS, FIRE BRIGADE, GRAPHIC AND SPORTY, SHINE AND SHAPE, SHOWGIRLS, THE FLORIST 0.1, THE FLORIST 0.2, TRIBAL, UNDERSTATED.

Let’s start with the first three.

ARTWORKS

From left to right: Viktor & Rolf, Céline, Céline, Kenzo, Chanel

A fest of art processes and a good portion of fashion activism generates primary, urgent expressionism in giant strokes and squiggles. A one off sprayed couture canvas energizes the plain range of Victor & Rolf; slaps of primary colors like tribal brushwork and big, bold, bright tunics and skirts wild with fringe frame the power of women at Céline; artful ocean drawings point out the cause of overfishing at Kenzo where Chanel poses its products of crafts and artisanship against the backdrop of an art gallery.

FIRE BRIGADE

From left to right: Undercover, Emilio Pucci, Hermès, Alexander McQueen, Christian Dior

We signal an alarming portion of red. Walking billboards shout the revival of logo mania during the show of Undercover – showing impressive activism and manifestos in vibrant fierce red; Emilio Pucci chooses red for streetwise gym clothes to express extreme body confidence; Hermès shows red in a rendezvous with romance resonating the faint echoes of Africa; generic version of diflucan At Alexander McQueen power women are painted in dazzlingly tribal red; Where Christian Dior paints poisonous red to stress the harder attitude. Fashion is politicized and shades have a meaning.

GRAPHIC & SPORTY

From left to right: Viktor & Rolf, Victoria Beckham, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Céline, Ports 1961

Sport proves to be one of the big drivers this season. Viktor & Rolf dress dolls and play sporty tailoring games with knife pleats and sharp crested blazers; Shape, leggy and cling where the buzzwords for Victoria Beckhams crisp line up showing athletic body-harness dresses; City smart sports layers make easy outfits that are cut with efficiency by 3.1 Philip Lim; Céline goes ragga style in this elongated string vest look, layered with a yellow jumper tied around the waist; Where Ports 1961 shows sports clean and sharp, matching bold boxy tops with generous drapes in full swing.

 

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2014

The theme of Ralph Lauren’s spring collection was Mod, with Sixties A-line shift-dresses in black, patent leather Mary Janes and knee socks. Almost all the looks came in black and white, from a three-piece pantsuit to a floral patent trench-coat. There were a few of the designer’s signature elegant pantsuits, but the black-and-white looks became repetitive fast. When color did finally enter the indian pharmacy picture, it was bright—lime green, acid yellow, neon orange for long dresses.

First View New York Womenswear SS2014: Stark Modernism

This trend is the fastest way to chic ‘as whispered by the league of stylewriters’. Since New York means business, another range of easy wearables for us to Spot! Exercises in modern minimalism show clothes both sharply tailored and deconstructed. Ultra-chic black and white suits, sharply tailored jackets and relaxed trousers that can be worn day-to night. Crisp plains as well as bold artistic patterning – wild linear brushstrokes and scribbles, cut up checks and stripes, buy viagra new york bold blockings and some very smart and arty engineered optical patterns and panel prints.
Slouchy looks in loose trousers and floppy, sleeveless tops make sleek sophisticated outfits for the downtown crowd and ‘90s obsessed.
A two-tone multifaceted trend. Marc by Marc Jacobs connects to this ‘90s crowd with his baggy silhouettes and arty patterning. Robert Rodriguez goes for a prim, sexy silhouette as sharp as his pointed shoes. Rag & Bone drops waists and décolletées with sensual nonchalance. Where the Mulleavy sisters push Rodarte off the beaten tracks with some crafty tailoring and pretty playful details.
The great thing about black & white is that it fuses and joins almost any look in a magical way…

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Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York SS2014

After all that minimalism during New York Fashion Week came Marc Jacobs with a collection that threw the audience back to 1890s. Marc Jacobs explained his collection as being in a sort of nightmare. buy cheapest viagra No beautiful light whispering summerclothes, but a mix of Victorian influences, menswear and Birkenstock: dark, dangerous and compelling. Jacobs’ clothes were printed, appliquéd, embroidered, and tasseled. And dark. There were large hibiscus prints in red and white on a coat and maroon and white on a shirt and shorts set, but black, navy, bottle green, and brown were the dominant colors here.
The overall look was opulent, the day clothes either riffs on old, elegant officers’ jackets worn over re-fabricated surf shorts or loose-cut dresses and sweatshirts in thick velours. Evening presented a mesmerizing parade of slightly deranged-looking Victorian heroines in mourning — their darkness highlighted by intricate embroideries.

Streetfashion Womenswear New York SS2014 Day 6

What are you viagra canadian pharmacy wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Kenzo-sweater or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Last stop: New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2014.

Streetfashion Womenswear New York SS2014 Day 5

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Kenzo-sweater or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal viagra buy now style. Last stop: New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2014.

First View New York Womenswear SS2014: Sweeteners

Joseph Altuzarra comments on his Spring 2014 collection –‘ I wanted something that felt easy, something that women would want to wear in summer’. No reason to complicate things where the matter is as straightforward as this. Let’s make pretty clothes to please the girls. From tailored retro sportswear in impeccable neoprene’s, to diaphanous slip dresses layering translucence over opaque. Modern remakes of classic suits, pretty frocks, elegant dresses in sun kissed pales as icy aquas, cool mints and fresh breezy corals and pinks. Ravishing prettiness, without becoming too sweet, all minutely tailored, pristine, smart and silken.

DKNY showed pastel-hued tailoring, pretty parkas, lean bodysuits and racy track pants. Easy pieces in pleasing pastels. Prabal Gurung hailed the muse of fifties sweetness – Marilyn Monroe. He celebrates the elegant women, whom he thinks is endangered. Alexander Wang proves fashion to bying viagra online cheap us be entertainment and Altuzarra displays gracefulness, subtlety, restraint and quietness.

As Prabal Gurung proclaims  – ‘This is about the preservation of elegance’.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Proenza Schouler Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2014

Like many of this week’s collection Proenza Schouler breathed serenity and a sense of pureness. Inspired by mid-century furniture designers (and with ‘domesticity’ as a theme) Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough presented a nature inspired selection of looks of which the designers’Resort collection viagra pfizer canada turned out to be a small preview. Created in neutrals like cream, clay, navy and white they sent highly elegant designs down their runway. Like suede tops, pants and dresses, like luxurious coats with special turnlock closures. Like structured tops and dresses with a low V-line, as well as glamourous pleated lame skirts. A furlike coat stood out from the crowd and the one print for spring was black with a white paint roller effect to it. Cropped tops once again proved to create a strong look, especially in the mix of those long and lean looks. Bronze nature-inspired necklaces fit in with the collection’s theme. How far you can get with a theme that might appear so dull at first…

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