Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Who could work out a theme like the popular tv-show Downtown Abbey better than Ralph Lauren? The man who secretly seemt to be an Englishman living the countrylife.

The show opened with casually elegant men’s wear looks all in mixes of tweeds, plaids and checks. In a season where fabric-mixes play an important role his combinations felt natural. The styling was very Downtown Abbey, but the pieces were versatile. A leather motorcycle jacket felt as right in the mix as a spencer. Coats came in various forms,  from herringbones and plaids to ocelot-printed shearling.

The rest of the show was all about the timeless elegance of black and gold.

First View New York FW2012: Nomads

A walk on the wild side shows us a myriad of decorative textures, contrasting layers, lovely decorations and a free flow of cultural heritage.

In the Year of the Dragon, global travellers pick up the local and turn it into a lovely metropolitan mash-up. A nomadic lifestyle is reflected in a rich layering of elaborate items. Most headed East for inspiration that reflects in a warm lava and volcanic colour palette combined with gold and copper. Cosy wraps and roomy, up scaled jackets show an interesting combination of urban glam and relaxed in some cases even cuddly comfort.

Rag & Bone masterfully mixes the 70s flavoured bohemian spirit with cool urban design, Edun confirms its favour of crafts and decoration, where Proenza Schouler realises an interesting study of eastern artisanship and kimono shaping.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Proenza Schouler Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Gone was the retro kitch of last season, it was hello to a more minimalist theme at Proenza Schouler for fall 2012. The dus had said they took inspiration from their trip to Peru and Bhutan. The show opened with crisp white cottons.  Big boxy jackets, shirtdresses and skirts were  flat, precise layers that folded across the body with uneven hems and workwear details.
After the extremes, a more understandable part came with natural shapes, including suit jackets and stiff wrap skirts made from intricately woven leather in red, black and gold.
The show ended on a distinct Oriental note. The designers vacationed in Bhutan in October when the country was focused on its king’s wedding. They were taken with the colors and patterns of the traditional national garb, which inspired the elaborate brocades they used for  short dresses with stiffened, arched hems, and a sweatshirt done in quilted silk embroidered with two exotic birds.

 

Jeremy Scott Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

The rainbow spectacle Jeremy Scott presented yesterday looked back to the nineties, and at moments to the seventies, and maybe further away.  There were sweat suits, stretch dresses, and leggings printed with computer screen shots and instant-message emoticons. “We use them to communicate our emotions,” Scott explained to the press. “I’m angry, I’m happy, I’m horny, I feel kind of flirty. That’s now a legitimate answer.”

Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

The fall collection of Philosophy di Alberta Ferreti was an ode to the young professional which resulted in  a strong collection of polished, professional clothes, layered with feminine, modern touches. Crisp white power suits cinched at the waist, formfitting white dresses in a slightly stricter silhouette and chic coats. That, along with several other pieces, were perfectly suited for a boardroom meeting. For high-glamour moments, she suggested several metallic and PVC dresses.

Preen Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi were inspired by Beatrix Potter’s botanical illustrations, Victorian-era scrapbooks and abstract expressionists. The result was a cool collection, with a heavy use of prints, texture and color on flirty tops and skirts paired with two-tone tailored separates and knitted sweaters.

Narciso Rodriguez Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Narciso Rodriguez used his strong construction skills, layering together different colors and fabrics for pieces with a Japanese feel, like the draped kimono effect on an orange silk top with a deep red skirt that was wrapped. Sometimes it seemed like two dresses were layered into one. His new accessories collection, which made its debut on the runway, was a strong addition and featured color-blocked gloves and functional handbags in exotic skins and suede.

Micheal Kors Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Michael Kors chose a rustic-luxe cabin in the woods in wintertime as his location, what collection will fit there we all can guess.  Buffalo checks and fox fur. His trick, as always, was to filter it all through his glamorous yet practical lens. Manhattan meets Aspen, besides lots of fur women who prefer their outerwear on the tamer side Kors, showed tartan chesterfields and striped blanket ponchos with deep fringe.

Daywear was all about the mix: an almost conservative midi-length skirt paired with a knit lace tank bustier, or black leather adding edge to a gray plaid dress. Cocktail hour continued to match country with city—like the ivory fisherman sweater and the gold lace skirt.

First View New York FW2012: Eccentric

Is this the kick off for an era of extremities? Or just another flow of reminiscence of the 60s en 70s, when pastiche and thrift shops came in favour. But now it get’s the luxury make over. The spirit of frivolous, brocante, scarce collectors items and precious iconic couture with a daring twist. Anna Piaggi and Iris Apfel are the muses to watch. Ab fab furs, chunky knits, lush velvet and corduroy, rich embroidery and tapestry. Proportions are blown up, giant is the size to go for. Supersized jewellery, hyper hats and bold stoles. Some take it serious and embrace the crafts aspect, some take it modern and throw in some digital printing and finishing, where others go for the humorous edge. Marc Jacobs most extreme with fluffy supersize hats, Nicole Miller revives vintage with some Boho touches, Libertine scatters dazzling glitter over luxurious crafted textures. Entertaining, exiting and fun is a good status for fashion.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Oscar de la Renta Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

There was a youthful feeling in the collection of Oscar de la Renta. Still precious , but most of the clothes were short, full-skirted silhouettes; in baby-pink and powder blue;  ribbons in the models hair. But it was the photo prints of jewels that gave this show its younger streak.
Of course De la rente presented  skirtsuits and twinsets, but they weren’t the focus. Embellishment was all around, even by day. Ladylike suits came in gold lace jacquard and silvery metallic tweed. Pants looked sporty, sometimes tucked into boots dripping with fur. The playful mood continued into evening, where the emphasis was on cocktail dresses.

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