Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Marc Jacobs took fashion into another direction. Again. But he still finds a covered girl sexy, so that opinion didn’t change. The result for his ss2013 collection: suits with below-the-knee skirts worn low on the hips, bare midriffs and long skirts and dresses. Many of the outfits came in wide vertical stripes — black, maroon, taupe — with matching purses and  little shoes with low heels.  The models’ hair was ratted at the crown and pulled into a low ponytail.

The show was literally eyepopping and a play with optical illusions, also 1960 Swinging London revisited. The message for summer 2013 was hard, young and graphic. The geometric elements were everywhere: zigzag op-art patterns or harlequin effects; shoes with checkered heels.

Herve Leger Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The collection Max Azria designed for Herve Leger was inspired by the quilts of Gee’s Bend, a rural community in Alabama whose women have developed a distinct style of traditional patchworking over the past two centuries. The influence gave the collection an extra dimension seen in geometric patterns and passementerie appliqué details. Versions came flared at the hemline or jazzed up with interlocking chains, a fishnetlike overlay and leather harnesses.

Philip Lim Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Phillip Lim’s explained in his shownotes that he had been exploring “cut-up,” a Dada literary technique later popularized by William Burroughs and then appropriated by musicians such as David Bowie and Radiohead.  Cut-up is another word for nonlinearity. In fashion Cut-up could also mean mix ‘n’ match. Like Philip Lim did.
Take his interpretation of sheers. One ofe the main trends for ss2013 is see-through clothes which is not an easy concept to sell. But Lim, using obscuring plaid or woodland scene appliqués, made the look modest enough to be convincing. The silk sheers were among the standout pieces as were the patchwork denim, shredded khakis and his printed, corded silk biker jackets.

Tommy Hilfiger Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Tommy Hilfiger and his team brushed up two classic themes – safari and nautical – and made it into an upbeat and interesting collection. It was big and lively, with new  interpretations of sailcloth, stripes, and fisherman knits, among other staples of the seafaring look. The oversized red, white, and blue suit jackets, slouchy patchwork denim, and swinging tent dresses boasting sexy open backs looked refreshing and good. And many of the pieces benefited from unexpected finishes, such as the boxy navy-striped sailor’s tee, with a slick, stiff coating of wax. Yet for all the emphasis on the American palette, there were a great deal of washed-out sandy tones, too. They looked crisp and clean, though not obviously safari-esque, on cable knits and summery leathers.

Posing at New York Fashion Week SS13 (Streetwear)

Impression of streetwear at New York fashion week spring / summer 2013 season.

Victoria Beckham Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

It seems Victoria Beckham has decided she wanted to to advance her collection. She accomplished this smartly for spring, most notably by adding chic, tailored separates. From a minimalist baseline, she worked interesting details into coats and jackets, slim pants and crisp shirts, the perfect ease of their combinations showing the hand of Beckham’s new stylist, Joe McKenna.
Yet Beckham still loves a great dress. She also incorporated feminine touches via lingerie details — bra tops and straps peeking out from under dresses — and various types of lace.

Round Up New York Womenswear FW2012

This was an interesting week in New York. This season seemed one big exercise. Testing shapes, volumes and proportions. Trying textures, various embellishments, prints and crafts from different origins and inspirations. Probing periods, from 20s, 30s, 70s to 80s. And the fun factor is that it is hard to guess what comes from whom. It seems ideas are exchanged, copied, re-edited and re-interpreted. Identities mixed, profiles and signatures blurred. Scatter collection snapshots and guess its origins. It will be a wild guess this time!

We spot a feel for the extreme and ECCENTRIC, iconic and humorous as Marc Jacobs showed it, reflecting on grand fashion divas. Altazurra and Libertine are two among others staging artful embellishment and intricate crafts.

 

Ports 1961 hit on a SCULTPURAL trend, showing a peplum silhouette, one of the favorites this season. But there is more; masterfully executed by the grand master of simplicity Calvin Klein but also Philip Lim, Peter Som and Alexander Wang showed bold rounded silhouettes.

 

OVERSIZED is an understatement when talking about the Proenza Schouler collection. Also both Donna Karan and Y3 super sized items within their range. Y3 is one of the few collections faithful to sportswear as we were so used to in The Big Apple.

 

NY was DRESSED UP this season, Donna Karan hat topped ladies dressed reminiscent of Marlene Dietrich. Victoria Beckham shows shapely contouring shifts and Diane von Furstenberg sensual draping.

 

Friendly and relaxed were the global travellers; modern NOMADS in multi cultural referenced cuddly warps and layers. Rag & Bone, showed city nomads, Y3 global hybrids and Proenza Schouler went east.

This fashion mash-up makes us curious about what comes next!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

First View New York FW2012: Sculptural

Here we sure have a silhouet statement for the season. Sculptural minimalism in dense wool. Luxurious layers of wool, double face or bonded materials, cut, folded and wrapped. New volumes curved and cut away from the body. Rounded shoulders, peplum jackets with wrap, pleat or belted waists.

A novel boldness that shows precision in tailoring, luxurious fabrics and a love for architectonic constructions.  Peter Som shows felt type wrap coats with linebacker shoulders, Thom Browne gloomy, monolithic sculptures with some intricate tailored details, Narcissi Rodriguez goes crisp and neat avoiding unnecessary details and concentrating on the perfect cut, where Ports 1961, shows a strong bold silhouette in interesting textured materials.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View New York FW2012: Oversized

Contours are moving away from the body. Silhouettes rely heavily on the look of seventies American Sportswear. Belted trenches, wide-legged jersey trousers and midi-length dresses. Wide shouldered blouses and bold masculine dress coats with long lapels. Technical parkas and super size rounded sweaters. We recognize David Bowie reflections in broad padded shoulders and zipper closures in almost any garment. Pants are huge and chimney legged and skirts are full, flared, pleated or slitted.

Proenza Schouler translates this look into iconic statements: boyfriends’ jackets in massive volumes, which make the women inside ever so tiny, skinny and lovely. Donna Karan alternates her dressed-up Marlène looks with wide sports coats, Marc by Marc Jacobs shows flared full skirts where Philip Lim translates masculine parameters into sensual feminine sportswear.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW 2012

The idea of real strength was the central theme for Francisco Costa and his  fall collection for Calvin Klein. The designer was inspired by Bauhaus and the Bauhaus woman of the 1920s.  The result was  subtle with clothes in ultra-feminine silhouettes starting with a black wool mohair A-line coat cinched at the waist with a wide silver belt. Another example came with the cropped burnt-orange cashmere sweater worn over a matching shift dress.

Costa used thick wools for coats, but also for some dresses, which looked a bit heavy. Better were the black dresses mixed with leather, sometimes it was just an insert, another time is was the back, or a skirt.  The overall effect was powerful, but the clothes also had a softer side: ladylike and charming, even with a Fifties couture touch.

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