Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

No final changes or last minutes alterations were possible at Marc Jacobs’ fashion show. All of his models were already visible on stage at the beginning of the show. At first they were standing in a wooden frame, wrapped up in brown paper. Yet as Marc Jacobs tore off the paper they just stood there waiting to hit the runway.

Fortunately they didn’t have to wait very long. Because since Marc Jacobs banned celebs at his show this year he was able to start the show on time, for once. (His shows used to always start way too late, one time the delay was three hours.)

The first few outfits of the show could best be described as simple and sober. The wide skirts and the neutral grey shades did not make our hearts beat faster.

Then it got a little funkier as large fur coats with huge fur collars and cuffs were introduced. Though the hues of grey and beige were the same and they stayed the same throughout the collection.

The three new faces from last season, our Dutch top models, walked in the show as well. Bregje Heinen appeared in one of the sheer dresses of the collection. Patricia van der Vliet wore one too, yet hers was combined with a long striped coat. Mirte Maas wore a pair of colored glasses, which didn’t look too cool.

Several sequined looks reminded us of the fact that we were watching a Marc Jacobs fashion show for the winter of 2010/2011. We’d almost forget that while none of the clothes in this collection were very renewing.

But it seemed that was exactly Marc Jacobs’ point. He told the press: ‘There’s so much striving for newness now that newness feels less new.’ So he purposely didn’t go for something new or different. He just showed he knows what he’s doing and showed he’s good at it too.

But we’re not satisfied that easily…

The show ended with a few shiny dresses. Yet while the models wore hardly any make up and just let their hair hang loose the finale didn’t look very impressive. Marc could have put a little bit more effort into that part, if you ask us.

Streetfashion FW2010 New York Day 2

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Balenciaga-heels, your latest Marni-dress or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York.

Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

It was all black at Donna Karan, only two other colors popped up during her show – purple and electric blue. But this was a kind of celebration-collection, because the house turned 25 now. Enough reason to look back in black, but not too obvious. Donna Karan stuck with the sculpted tailoring and draped dresses – they were a hit the last two seasons – but she changed the silhouette. It all looked fuller, away from the body-conciousness, also thanks to the dense fabrics she used. The cocoon-coats looked great and comfy and had big sculptural shawl-collars, black and white tweed was mixed with satin and laminated wool looked like a wet pavement. The overall look was modern, powerful and very feminine – and didn’t feel like looking back at all.

Diane von Furstenberg Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

Borrowing from and interpreting menswear seems a theme in the fall-season in New York. But, as a trend watcher earlier this year told us, the men’s jacket is the new dress for the coming five years.

Diane von Furstenberg always wanted to live a man’s life in a woman’s body, at least that’s what she confessed in her show-notes. So it was no surprise men’s suits played a main part in the collection. She cropped the pants, mixed the gray felted wool with chiffon rosettes and a corduroy jacket with a ruffled minidress.

It was the old game of playing soft against hard. Luckily there were also a lot of dresses to choose from, from simple lbd’s to tunic dresses.

Philosophy Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

The Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti-show had the familiar boy-girl thing, but looked also very romantic and almost Victorian with the long dresses, high collars and black lace over white. Fragile dresses with high, white collars were mixed with polished, tailored officer’s coats in wools and thick leathers

Luckily it became a little bit edgy with black lace-up knee boots. It just needed that.

Tony Cohen Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

At the Salon in New York Dutch designer Tony Cohen showed he’s a true artist when it comes to making women look beautiful. He also proved he belongs at the New York Fashion Week as one of the few foreign fashion labels.

The models he sent out on the runway all looked very sophisticated and mysterious at the same time. Their hair and make-up and the dark shades (black, grey and Burdury red) they wore created that look. The use of luxurious silk, cashmere and wool added to that feeling.

Cohen’s well-known signature aspects – draping and asymmetry – again were the highlight of the collection. Yet Tony Cohen also introduced a third success item: hand crafted embroideries. He designed embroidered gloves, belts, shoulders and tops decorated with sequins. They made the models look even more elegant and will probably be the aspect of this show we remember the best.

A look from this collection we won’t soon forget either was a short black dress with extremely wide transparent draped sleeves. It really stood out and looked astonishing beautiful. Plus: many women would be able to wear it. And this brings us to the success aspect of the collection: every piece of it was wearable. And since many brands are experimenting with crazy shapes and fabrics we were happy to see some well-made, wearable fashion.

Streetfashion FW2010 New York Day 1

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Burberry-boots, your latest D&G-vest or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York.

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

It looked like Alexander Wang took the traditional banker’s uniform – the darkblue pinstriped suit – deconstructed it and put it together again. The result was sexy and dark, almost with a Belgian touch. But where designers like An Demeulemeester and the early Martin Margiela put a lot of effort in the making, the cut and the fit, it seemed Wang aimed more at the effect. Cropped blazers, tailcoats and vests exposed flashes of skin and were worn with thick thigh-high legwarmers and chunky heels. Layering also played a part in this collection, but was less relaxed. For evening and partywear Wang chose velvet and chenille.

Jason Wu Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

Everybody talked about Jason Wu’s inspiration, photographer Irving Penn, but you better ignore that. The designer just wanted to do something different than the princess-like clothes he’s famous for thanks to Michele Obama. So Wu took a good look at menswear – that’s where the personal style of Penn comes along – and morphed influences into pretty womenswear with a mannish touch. He presented short sleeved jackets, oversized cashmere coats,  mohair sweaters and fold-over pants. The overall look had an appealing, relaxed sensibility. Grey, black, white and blue were the main colors with splashes of mustard, orange, yellow, golden and green.

In the end Wu just couldn’t resist to design a few real princess-dresses, just for the fun of it. I’m sure a few of those will return sooner or later at the White House or some red-carpet event.

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