Moncler Gamme Bleu Catwalk Fashion Show SS2012

Tom Browne surely knows how to morph the craziness for sports into a wearable collection for the Italian label Moncler Gamme Bleu. You can’t believe that after his extra-ordinary shows led with military precision, the Italian teenagers actually buy his clothes. But leave all the quirky details and entertainment out, and left is a collection with nice athletic jackets and bombers, T-shirts, shorts, leather motorcycle gear and navy-inspired costumes. Checks came in gray and black, stripes in blue and white with an occasionally red accent and black and white played their of role.

The show was set in a real fence-club with trophies and photos of fencers lining the walls. Giant, fluorescent sci-fi lights were there just for the occasion. The connection between a fencer’s padding and Moncler’s skiwear heritage is rather obvious, but you need Browne to make the link between this and the storm troopers in Star Wars. To the tune of the movie’s ‘Imperial March’ the masked corps filed out and lined up against the back wall of the club. The tone was set.

Moncler Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Thom Browne did it again for Moncler. The US-based designer favors big shows in big spaces al orchestrated with military precision and tyhis time he chose an arena for his hunting-theme collection. Unfortunately for him you cannot orchestrate Beagles the way you do humans, so  the animals brought some life and laugh to the presentation. The collection itse;f consisted of long (waxed) coats in black and green, bodywarmers, colorful turtlenecks and checks for pants.

Moncler Gamme Bleu Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

The Moncler fashion was held at Velodromo Vigorelli in Milan. This sports venue, where the Beatles performed in 1965, is mostly used for American Football events. Yet this afternoon the area was one big catwalk.

Due to the circular shape the models had to walk in circles and while the area was so big all guests were lucky to have a front row seat. The theme of the show, the Tour de France, matched perfectly with Moncler’s sportive heritage.

To the sound of Queen’s ‘I want to ride my bicycle’ the first model appeared on – surprise – a cycle. He wore a coat with a special bike print which we were going to see much more throughout the collection. As a matter of fact this print was visible in almost every look. All models wore a cycling legging with the bike print on it. They wore those leggings under their shorts and normal trousers. It didn’t really make sense, yet it gave the looks a sporty touch (as did the lines, hoods, drawstrings, pockets and the bands on the model’s arms and legs).

To finish the outfits Thom Browne added some cycling gloves and ties with a straight end. Also, every model wore a cap with the French flag on it.

The red, white and blue, pink, gray and black looked al right together, yet the way the clothes were layered was just wrong. Swim trunks over bike shorts?! Still, all individual items would have looked great when combined differently, with more basics.

So the styling was off, but the great show venue, the cycling models and the free drinks and umbrellas made the show worthwhile.

Thom Browne for Moncler

Thom Brownes own shows are a carefully staged performance where little is left to coincidence. So it didn’t came as a surprise the Moncler collection he showed in the old swimmingpool at Milans Viale Tunisia was of the same kind. We think Leni Riefenstahl would have loved it. Maybe Browne got inspired by history of the building, founded in the thirties under Mussolini.