Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2015

For fall 2015 Miuccia Prada wanted to make what women like: bows, colors, decorations. On one condition: it had to look her way. And so it did. Her vision of prettiness fused retro shapes with technical foam jersey for a mix of past-future dissonance.
Prada opened with neat Sixties shapes she’s worked before, but now in technic foam, mixing girly and acid colors to quirky effect (“Soft Pop” was a title for the collection). Trim jackets had schoolboy spunk over cropped bell-bottoms, and shared the runway with lady coats and beautiful high-waisted dresses in cuts derived from midcentury couture. Again, the designer veered from the obvious, perverting the look into baby-doll tunic-over-pants ensembles.

Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2015

Alberta Ferretti was designing with portraits from the Italian Renaissance in mind. No wonder the collection had romance, femininity, a little mystery and imagination. Sometimes a bit too literal, like the red hood, trimmed in crimson fur on a puckered princess-cut coat with a zip front for a little sporty panache.
Ferretti makes beautiful, feminine things, such as the group of filmy, ivory chiffon and organza peasant blouses with blouson sleeves, high ruffled necklines and traditional lace embellishments. Likewise, the sweeping crotchet knits, ethereal black-and-white lace gowns and short dresses with elaborate embroideries that reflected the deep, fiery tones of dawn and dusk.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2015

It was Alessandro Michele’s debut at Gucci this week. And his fall collection felt like a sharp break from Giannini’s Gucci and also Tom Ford’s version. The new man at the helm has a decidedly more romantic outlook. His Gucci girl is an ingenue with an eccentric side, one who looks as though she’s picked out her clothes at estate sales and vintage stores, and mixed them with handfuls of heirloom rings, chunky rimmed glasses, the occasional pompom hat, and fur-lined horse-bit loafers. The collection included colorful coats with fur cuffs and military leanings; fluttery, shapeless botanic print dresses; and unlined, skin-baring separates.

Missoni Milan Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear FW2015

On a catwalk ‘built’ out of a mix of printed rugs, Angela Missoni presented her F/W looks, also all about a mix of prints. Inspired by Trans Siberian travelers she used prints and colors you’d come across on this exotic journey. Prints ranged from holographic to geometric (some almost matched the tapestry) in predominant shades of blue, red and beige. Pieces varied from pleated pants, shirt and tie to more free spirited wrap tops and open coats. Large scarfs tossed around. Therewith Missoni overs a city chic style for every man. The family guy, the globe trotter and even the office clark (in knitted or woven, checked suits).

Salvatore Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear FW2015

The FW Ferragamo collection is one of those reasons so many of us love winter fashion more than summer attire. Inspired by Crimean War soldiers it was rich, in so many ways. The materials, the layering, the colors and range of styles. The way in which Massimiliano Giornetti showed us how versatile men can look in winter. Whether layering a woolen vest on top of a leather jacket (or vice versa). Whether rocking a pair of pleated pants and a low V-neck T-shirt. Whether he’s wearing a teddy, a lammy or a trench. Checked or decorated with nature inspired things (like a large bison). The Ferragamo man is bound to look cool and collected. Especially with that playful, boyish hairdo and one of those XL scarfs tossed around. Oh and never mind the silly sunglasses. Massimiliano didn´t have long to celebrate his collection, though. He took the first flight out of Milan straight to Amsterdam. At the Marie Claire Prix de la Mode awards, held at Het Rijksmuseum, he accepted the award for Best Fashion House. Congrats on both Massimiliano!

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear FW2015

After Frida Giannini’s early leave at Gucci last week apparently the whole f/w collection was redone. In 5 days(!), so we’ve read. The show was a lot of things. Gender ambiguous being one of them. A girl came on in a deep colored suit, a guy appeared in a lace red top. Trench coats, toggle coats, military jackets (all with too short sleeves), fur coats and capes were introduced alongside sleeveless tops and chiffon bow blouses. There were woolen beanies and berets as well as flip flops and XL glasses. Colors, graphic prints, shape and fit of the clothing all had a seventies feel to them. Looks were hardly appealing, but the Gucci team showed it dares to take risks. If this show was a point of departure, we’re on the edge or our seat next presentation.

Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear FW2015

No decoration, no color, no print. Just the soul of Versace: silhouette and cut. That was the message of Donatella Versace for her FW 2015 menswear collection. She envisaged the collection as a kind of ground zero, leveling the playing field for the future. It was certainly a step away from excess and ambiguity and gladiatorial camp as we have seen many times.

The color palette was a banquet of soothing neutrals. For all the designer’s insistence on cut, it was softness that dominated. A hooded mink coat and a Mongolian lamb backpack were its most extreme manifestations. Otherwise, jacquard-ed blousons and parkas had the comfy look and feel of blankets. The body-conscious cashmere knitwear in long cabled cardigans and even longer rib-knit tops, layered over leggings was lean and athletic. It took on an impressive masculine heft with oversized outerwear.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear FW2015

The message of love that drove the latest collection of Dolce & Gabbana couldn’t have been timelier. Love, family, community—the eternal verities that offer security when the foundations are kicked out from under us.

The curtains opened on eight real families in a tableau vivant, friends and colleagues of the designers’, from grandmothers to babies, adding a new spin to the idea of DNA. The images on the clothing featured other families, from Renaissance renditions of the Nativity to naive cartoons of the classic nuclear mum, dad, and two kids. The model casting was cross-generational as well. Regarding the fashion, there was the reassurance of the familiar: a three-piece suit in black brocade, some artfully distressed denim, an embroidered sweatshirt, a graphic tee. There was comfort, too, in tweeds, jersey pants, pajamas, lounge suits, rubber Wellington boots, and shoes that looked like a sophisticated take on pony-skin clogs. And everywhere there were the appliqués: “Amore,” “Famiglia,” “Love Forever.”

The time of the season (Milan SS15 streetwear)

It’s summer in Milano and streetwear is all around during fashion week! Team Peter Stigter went out and caught the atmosphere around the shows. Featured are, amongst others: Chiara (Blonde Salad), Kate Moss, Heidi Klum, Hanne Gaby and Anna Della Russo.

Streetwear Milan SS 2015 Day 5

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week spring/summer 2015.

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