Marni Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2016

With a Tim Burton-esque soundtrack playing in the backround, Consuelo Castiglioni’s return to the Milan runway with Marni men’s wear captured the awkward juncture between boyhood and the adult world. Outsized collars splayed over leisure suits that could have been nabbed from an uncle’s Seventies vacation wardrobe. Pants, whether loose or slim, were often too short and showed chunky socks and sandals.

It all had a naïve charm that was true to Castiglioni’s retro-tinged aesthetic. She embraced workwear codes to explore that no-man’s land between leisure and the office: employing lots of Maytag-repairman blue, or shades evoking Soviet-era uniforms; adding utility pockets to shrunken blazers, and splicing suit sleeves onto boxy shirts. Somehow the queasy colors, funny shapes and occasional flash of noisy floral prints managed to work together.

Jil Sander Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2016

In a season marked by soft shapes and rivers of fluid fabric, Designer Rodolfo Paglialunga presented a Jil Sander-collection with full of geometric shapes and far from soft & fluid silhouettes. Trousers stretched only to mid-calf, while suits came with knee-skimming shorts, and were made from lightweight leather, shiny, coated canvas, or crinkly parachute nylon.

The muted palette featured dove-gray, pale olive and black, while adornment came as a utility strap running down the side of a sleeve, and rectangular, colored patches in leather or dark shades of blue or brown. Bright abstract Japanese-style flower patches on denim jackets and snappy short-sleeved shirts added much-needed perk to the collection.

Streetfashion Womenswear Milan FW2015, day 5

What are you wearing during the fashion weeks? Your Burberry-boots, that vintage Dior or your latest Celine coat? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week fall/winter 2015.

Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2015

Please enjoy the pictures, our review and show report will follow shortly.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2015

A super short animal printed party dress opened Cavalli’s f/w show. Luckily paired with a large woollen cape, or we would have been looking at the wrong season. Although in Roberto Cavalli’s world an animal printed party dress is always appropriate. What followed were floor sweeping dresses and airy poetic blouses combined with waistcoats and statement trousers. Ruffled bibs, frilly cuffs and a strong focus on the waist. Some denim, silk and corduroy. There were touches of military, bohemian influences and maybe even some eastern references. But most of all it was a mix of fashion pieces that will make the Cavalli customer’s hearts beat faster. Festive, seductive pieces to hop from cocktail to dinner to fancy yacht party. That Cavalli women doesn’t care too much about whether the silhouette is more seventies nowadays or the color palette should be pastel and faded; she just want to have a good time. That being said the sizzling ombré plissé goddess gown that concluded the show is a dreamnumber in any woman’s world.

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2015

Tailored polka dot printed pants dominated the Bottega Veneta show for the first ten looks or so. Paired with lurex dot sweaters and silk shiny blouses they immediately brought up a sixties and seventies vibe. Midi lengths paired with knee high boots and mod coats added to that effect. As did color clashing looks in shades of both orange and purple. As well as geometric patterned cocktail dresses, several full on lace numbers and polka dots suits. Models with come as you are hair surely looked original in Thomas Maier’s risk taking ensembles. Yet all together it might not be the prettiest Veneta collection. But presenting a hit collection clearly wasn’t Maier’s goal. His risk taking collection was meant to shake things up a bit in order to move on. Mission accomplished.

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2015

Marilyn Monroe was the muse of the Max Mara design team. Her famous 1962 beach shoot with George Barris, in which she covered up in a Norwegian sweater, camel blanket and sea-green towel, fueled the color scheme and lineup of retro bombshells in deluxe knits and coats.
Gigi Hadid, the model of the moment, opened and closed the show in a pair of mannish camel coats clutched around her like she had a chill, covering everything but her cleavage. An oversize take on the traditional camel cable knit was pretty perfect. Anyone in the market for a big coat to sink into next season will have options: a nubby tailored overcoat; a turquoise fur; a pale-pink brushed alpaca. For novelty, there were colorful leopard prints and shiny quilted silk styles with fur linings. Retro lady bombers, sweatshirts and pencil skirts fleshed out the merchandise for those who want something to wear under the coats.

Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2015

The Fendi-collection was all about geometry, experimental volumes and a little fun. Inspiration for stage and invitation was the work by Swiss artist Sophie Taeuber-Arp. But while they referenced her circular work, much of what was on the runway was angular — coats, dresses, even pants were made from pieced-together panels.

This collection was a fusion of faux-utilitarian pragmatism and flamboyance. There was a bit of the Alpine worker to the pinafores and chaps-like leather additions attached at the hips to skirts. Bibs and aprons in paneled constructions were fastened by giant buttons. Continuing with the add-a-flower motif started two seasons back with orchid corsages, here, birds of paradise popped out of color-blocked fur and shearling bags.

The fabric splicing intrigued — the simplicity of the two-tone white coat that opened the show to graphically collaged coats and a witty felt gilet over corduroy pants wrapped in tubes of shearling from the knees down. The diversity continued through to silhouettes; looks came long and lean, long and swingy, short and crisp, and big, bigger, biggest, with the mega-statement coming on the big side. Lagerfeld and Fendi did outrageous takes on the puffer, including out-to-there short jackets over slim skirts and some strapless dresses.

Streetfashion Womenswear Milan FW2015, day 3

What are you wearing during the fashion weeks? Your Burberry-boots, that vintage Dior or your latest Celine coat? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week fall/winter 2015.

Streetfashion Womenswear MIlan FW2015, Day 2

What are you wearing during the fashion weeks? Your Burberry-boots, that vintage Dior or your latest Celine coat? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week fall/winter 2015.

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