Dolce&Gabbana Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

How many times can you reinvent Italy? And how many times can you redefine Italian elegance and bravoure? As many times as you like, if you ask Dolce&Gabbana. The show was obviously about their home country, their roots. They’ve been working with this feeling of nostalgia for years now, creating the Italian myth. The main question this time: how do people outside Italy see Italy? To answer this, we traveled around Italy. Starting in the 1940’s, its post-war period. The models strutted down the catwalk in the most romantic, feminine and typical Italian creations. Fifties sundress silhouettes, appliquéd flowers in every colour, corset tops, cocktail dresses, silken striped caftans, short bouncy skirts, Peruvian pom-poms, all highly decorated, embellished and embroidered with classic Italian emblems and symbols, like the tower of Pisa and Michelangelo’s David. And how fun are those dresses with vintage postcard print and handwritten letters from Capri, Palermo or Lago di Como. We couldn’t think of a better postcard to send home.

However, they haven’t lost touch with the here and now, and that’s when the most loved and hated Selfie came in. Models pretended to be tourists, making selfies while walking through cozy Italian streets and venues. The festive images immediately popped up on screens flanking the catwalk. Needless to say the #DGselfie, #ITALIAISLOVE or #dolcegabbana was on top of the social charts. And it was Italy that was on top of our minds for the rest of that day, because a great and fun collection it was. Like Dean Martin sings, “That’s Amore!”

Roberto Cavalli Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

A trademark isn’t a trademark for nothing. It means you love it, you own it and you’ll use it in any possible way. For Cavalli that means a collection full of his famous exotic elegance, wild prints, vintage looking denim, flashy metallics and bohemian glamour. And glamour by Roberto Cavalli means: sexy, sexy, sexy. Important ingredients that are inherent in every collection and his seductive take on clothing and women have provided lot’s of women to look their best. Wether in real life or on the red carpet. Since Brigitte Bardot wore his creations in Saint Tropez in the early ’70s, Cavalli has been the king of party glamour. And it is up to the new appointed creative director Peter Dundas, Pucci’s former head designer and former chief designer at Cavalli, to evolve the Cavalli staple and get everyone excited again. Yesterday was his first attempt.

Keyword? Eighties glamour. The era of Dallas and Dynasty. Over the top fashion. It was all in the boxy jackets, high waisted trousers, shiny fabrics, lots of embellishments, acid wash and neon colours (that lilac and pink denim!), oversized waist belts and dresses in all sorts – some with ruffles, some with cut-outs, some flowy others body-con as can be. Don’t worry too much about the combinations, as long as it looks extravagantly glamorous. No question about it: this woman rules her own empire, symbolically translated into a large dose of a digital image of a lion’s face on tailored suiting and dresses. Something that would fit us Dutchies perfectly, as it is our national symbol. You have to start somewhere to get world domination…

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear SS2016, Day 4

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Valentino dress, that vintage Dior or their latest Celine skirt? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week.

Jil Sander Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

For Jil Sander SS2016 Rodolfo Paglialunga came up with the label’s most sexy collection so far. In line with what seems to be the SS trend Jil Sander’s signature clean, sharp and sober gave way for more soft tailored and gentle creations. Jackets got sliced open at the shoulders and cut-outs were added at the waists and hems. Off shoulder and low necklines added to the seductiveness as fully buttoned blouses and 7/8 trousers were followed up by layered looks with a focus on midi lengths. Rather high straw hats, loose straps, rubber black belts and snake skin bags gave the collection it’s playful touch. A collection that balanced on two thoughts; the Jil Sander like we know it and the new direction Paglialunga is taking it. Stiff colored leather and shiny silk. Two rather conflicting styles and therefore not the strongest statement Paglialunga could have made. Still his special sleeved suits left a big impression and will be the chicest thing come spring.

Bottega Veneta Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

#animalistic and #sporty probably were often used hashtags at the Bottega Veneta show this morning. Inspired by the outdoors Thomas Maier opened his show with a hoodie and 7/8 pants done in nature inspired (camouflage meets mosaic) and leopard prints. A look that set the mood for one of the most laid back Veneta collections in a while, evolved around themes like hiking and sailing. Grommet, ropes and fishnet detailing referred to the latter (seen earlier at SportMax too). Models wearing their hair in post-gym knots looked look like they’d been outside, trekking, walking, living. “The more I can get out of an urban environment, the better it gets,” said the Miami-based German designer. A mix of fleece, calf and lots of craftsmanship detailing added dept to the looks. Leather lining and satin ribbons not only gave perfect shape, together with the large pockets and zippers they added to the sportive vibe of some looks too. The silhouette was athletic as well. Those 7/8 pants, hooded tops with tucked up sleeves, midi skirts with short stiff leather jackets and a variety of cocktail dresses (suitable for most diverse occasions) in the mix. A blunt bundle of eclecticism and freedom in a collection that went back and forth with it’s dress code. Therefore we’re not quite sure in what style category we’ll place it, but there’s time to evaluate. Needless to say the accompanying leather bags were impeccable.

Versace Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

Who run the world? Beyoncé knows. And Donatella knows too for sure. For this show it felt like those two leading ladies have been sharing the same thoughts: Who are we as women? And are we happy with who we are and the life we’re living? The Versace squat that walked down the runway seem to have the answers. The soundtrack of the show was ‘Transition’ by producer and DJ Violet and Friends, and was originally recorded to commemorate International Women’s Day. The perfect song for a show that was dedicated to all women regardless of age, color, religion, sexuality, or what sex they were born with. And that woman is matured, confident and sexy by nature, ready to bloom and explore in the urban jungle. She’s fierce and fragile at the same time. As a girlboss you don’t always have to be harsh, bitchy or have any other unhealthy attitude, sometimes you just have to let the clothes do the talking. And according to Donatella that means long time smashers such as animal prints, snake textures, sharp tailored suits, belted army blazers, platform shoes reaching sky high and lots of sexy dresses. No Versace show would be complete without some I-need-this-right-now dresses, right? We all need from time to time some off-shoulder, sheerness and cut-outs to reveal our best assets. Perhaps not at the office (try the military jacket!), but definitely at a party or any other sexy and fun occasion. It was a surprisingly mature and strong collection, without being too flashy or trashy. Sensuality and womanliness seem to be redefined. At least, for now. And so we end up with one more question: Would this be Versace’s new direction or just a fling?

Fendi Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

There were no references in Fendi’s show. “Retro is over”, stated Karl Largerfeld backstage. And he might just be right. When will fashion be done with the looking back and using bygone decades as an inspiration? Like always Karl Lagerfeld (and his design partner at Fendi Silvia Venturini Fendi) took the lead and decided that time is now. And so their SS2016 collection felt fresher than a daisy.
Would you think every possible piece of fashion has already once been designed, Fendi proved there’s still so much newness to explore. Like those billowy skirts and leather harnesses, like high waisted pants and leather tops done in a palette of black, army green, air force blue and Soviet red. Like those high necks and puffy sleeves. Silhouettes were soft, feminine and billowy in contrast to the show’s urban (concrete everywhere) backdrop. Floral embroideries, whip stitching, braided and smocking effects turned every look into a one of a kind. Toughness vs femininity.
And if you thought those high necks were a Victorian reference or those strong shoulders must have been inspired by the eighties. Well, they were not. “When tradition meets the future, you don’t know what period anything is from”, Karl stated.
What a refreshing way of looking at fashion just like it is. No eighties, nineties or Victorian references here. Just 2016 exquisite summer wear like you’ve never seen before.

Prada Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

If there’s one thing you can be sure about when it comes to Prada shows each season, it’s to expect the unexpected. So what to think of a show called ‘conservative eccentricity’? Miuccia Prada presented her Spring 2016 collection in a golden room, therefore they transformed the headquarters in Milan. All that gold interior matched perfectly with the heavy-metal mouths on the models, one of the most discussed details -same goes for the baby hairs- of the show. Gold mouths? Wait, what? How? Why? It was all the work of make-up mastermind Path McGrath. And you better get used to it, because what Miuccia Prada says normally goes.

This collection was, just like previous ones, based on the steady main pillars femininity, strength, and style. The main silhouette was a boxy jacket and skirt, which looked conservative indeed. But at Prada nothing is what is seems, so don’t fall for ‘just a jacket’ or ‘just a skirt’. We signed for modern tailoring with a twist. And that’s where the eccentricity comes in, that was translated into semi-transparant pieces revealing all there’s underneath (but still ladylike), XXL paillette lady coats, retro colours, extravagant accessories, bold metallic stripes or mixing so many different prints and textures that would’ve normally hurt your eyes but seem to work perfectly now. Miuccia Prada wasn’t present herself because of a family bereavement, but we would like to sent her a big bravo. She proved once more why she’s the leader of the fashion pack.

Max Mara Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

You know that moment, most times early in the morning, when you’re in hurry and you button up your coat in the wrong way? Like a weird asymmetric zig zag buttoning. And you go like: shit, another minute lost. Well that, according to Max Mara, wasn’t so bad after all. In fact, it’s runway material. The models showed many trenchcoats and double-breasted pea coats all buttoned up the wrong way. It was a fun and imperfect detail in the overal perfect, clean and modest mono-themed collection. Or as they called it on Instagram: Nautical simplicity with a luxury twist, which was accompanied by a backdrop and catwalk projected with waves. Who would’ve thought you could actually do walk on water? So yes, before we knew it we were checking off a sea of classic stripes, cotton maritime sweaters, the blue-white-ivory-red combinations, the rope handles on bags (their signature JBags even had ropes), gold buttons, semaphore flags, nautical symbols and sweet dolphin and seagull prints. The flared trousers, oversized sleeves, see-through details and starred tank tops added a little rock ‘n roll touch to it. Just like the soundtrack of the show ‘What Shall We Do With The Drunken Sailor’. Get on board, mate! This ship is ready for the waters. Drunk or not.

Gucci Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

Gucci’s new designer Alessandro Michele has some big shoes to fill, following up on Tom Ford’s version and Frida Giannini’s fashion eye. The heavy bearded Italian, who was appointed the new creative director of the billion-dollar Italian luxury brand at the beginning of this year, showed his third collection and took his feminine, rose-tinted ideas forward. History always looks better second or third time around, especially when you leave it to the hands of Michele. The women he sent out yesterday seem to be coming straight out of the seventies. The flared trousers and suits, bold glitter glasses, botanical embroidery crawling over, bow ties everywhere (how fun was the pineapple tie), lots of colour, the long sweepy dresses, ruffles from head to toe and what about the rick-rack trims. There was also a huge focus on fabrics: 18th Century brocades, metallic leathers, iridescent organzas, macramé and floral chiffons. All mixed and matched together. Everything was rich in detail and well thought. No room for nonchalance, modesty or primness, but enough room for romance and femininity. Underlined with many bold accessories, from dazzling bags to flower earrings and rings, dangling on arms and fingers. Some looks almost seamed like drawings on the model’s body. The collection may be quite bold or ‘naked’ for some of us, but it was full of want-it-now items.

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