John Varvatos Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Varvatos’ show was an ode to the city of New York. In a film, played as a background to the show, all NYC landmarks popped up, from the Chrysler Building tot the Statue of Liberty. The runway looked like a regular NYC street and felt raw and real at the same time (just like the clothes).

The models looked streetwise in clothes which had just the right amount of fashionable detailing. Washed of tones in leather were followed by woolen grey and black and scruffy streetstyles changed into a few slick evening looks.

We’re not sure yet about the enormous shearling collars, but those leather sleeves will be a definite hit.

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Tomas Maier of Bottega Veneta likes experiencing with materials, colors and effects. Well, the lean pristine suits he sent out this morning with optical effects in geometric color blocking were sure new and daring. But the effect was not always working out well. Later on the collection took a more cool and rock ‘n roll turn with knits and outerwear, like biker jackets and coats with graphic black rubber details.

In a season of mixed materials, Tomas Maier lightly applied tonal accents and contrasts, like glistening patches that looked like plastic tape. Fabrics were rich and warm, yet ultra light. Flocked velvet dripped from the V-neck of a black cashmere sweater; black cashmere-velvet pads capped the shoulders of short jackets and rubber details gave wool coats an urban touch.

Streetfashion Milan Menswear FW2012 Day 1

What are you wearing during these menswear fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Versace-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Menswear Fashion Week.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

The tiger stripes, leopard spots and croc details (Cavalli’s signature animal details) were still all there. Yet Daniele Cavalli presented them in a more subtle way than Roberto would probably have done.

The boys walking the show looked tough in their leather jackets, statement coats and capes. They rocked suit jackets with croc patterns, whole looks in feather print, tiger printed blouses and chevron patterned coats. One of them even got away with wearing a poncho at the very end of the show.

Besides the common grey and black, we see so much of every fall/winter collection, Daniele added a some looks in yellow, pink and blue/violet. A nice cheerful touch to a collection, which was already a clear stand out.

Burberry Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

For his fall 2012 Burberry menswear-collection Christopher Baily tried to mix the British City with the British Country-style. That led into a dapper gentleman in a tailored suit, an umbrella with a hand painted handle and a warm, sometimes bulky outdoor coat.  The overall result was polite and charming, traditional and familiar. But sometimes also a bit dull and predictable.

Form-fitting tailored suits played the major role in this collection, some of which came in plum, olive or teal velvet — and others made from herringbone or tweed wool. For a more formal feel, Bailey put velvet collars onto tweed trenches and topcoats. The outdoor-feeling was given by all those typical outdoorsy sports-gear like fishing vests, quilted or not, shooting jackets in leather or suede, chunky sweaters and cardigans.Luckily the polka dot ties and shirts, appliqué fox heads on knits and leather gloves with punkish gold studs gave that typical Burberry edge to the clothes. It’s all in the details eventually.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Raf Simons used all kinds of fabric to give his pitch black-collection for Jil Sander the right edge. On a black rubber runway and before a graffiti-stained door he sent out his darkest of dark collections. There was black leather and industrial-age fabrics glistening like wet asphalt to give archetypal male cliches like the businessman, the father, the office nerd an unbelievable and dangerous power.

The collection looked formal with handsome greatcoats, sculpted suits with seamed backs, and pristine shirts and ties. Simons played with proportions, from pencil slim to voluminous and flaring. Longer line coats, either tight or hanging straight, were a major statement.

Accessory of the season will definitely be the Jil Sander lunch-bag shaped leather goods. Sailor-suit flaps with prints of child-like motifs of whales, dinosaurs and fish gave it all a lighter attitude. Simons definitely set the tone for a new fall-season.

An no, no news about Christian Dior yet.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Bohemians were the characters Ennio Capasa of Costume National was thinking about, as an antidote to a materialistic direction that he sees society taking. Capasa called his collection a remix of his dark roots and all his experiences over the years.  There were  space-age boots,  punky mohairs, and  teddy-boy proportions, all elements we’ve seen before in Capasa’s collections – which point towards his passion for British youth cults.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Domenico and Stefano’s ultimate male muse David Gandy didn’t walk in Dolce & Gabbana’s menswear show. He attended the show as one of the special guests, next to Beyoncé’s sister Solange (who has just signed with Next Models) and a few Italian stars.

It was a classic and very Italian show, which had the brand’s masculine tailoring tradition as it’s starting point.

The collection was all about coats (and capes). They were thick and heavy and looked rich due to the many golden embroideries added. They formed quite a contrast next to few the shirtless guys in their camel colored Long Johns and boxers. Yet it seemed bodywear was a big part of the show, since multiple silk pajama’s (we think: Chuck Bass from Gossip Girl) were presented along the way.

Pinstriped, burgundy, velvet or gold and shiny; there were more than enough evening looks to choose from, topped off by a playful ribbon bow tie and a Sicilian cap every now and then.

The full looks, as they were presented on the runway, maybe were a bit too luxurious for most men. Yet there were enough sole pieces to mix and match into a man’s everyday wardrobe.

Party prep: black&white

They were Coco Chanels favorite colors and make an iconic pair in fashion: black and white. With December coming up, these two make a perfect combination for a festive outfit. Don’t know yet what to wear during Christmas? The designers can offer you enough of inspiration. From Dolce&Gabannas star print gowns to Miu Mius forties dresses. Or play with masculine/feminine elements wearing a beautiful tuxedo like we’ve seen at Stella McCartney and Yves Saint Laurent. Not to mention the amount of exciting black and white combinations seen at Louis Vuitton.
(Eva Dusch)

Streetstyle Trend Report 2011: the beard

You might have already noticed, but there are a lot of men with beards lately. Just take a look around, especially during the fashion weeks, and you see them everywhere. Like they all decided to let it grow.

It seems like a beard is becoming more and more of a style statement for men. Like a good hat or a graceful pair of glasses, a beard can do the same thing. It often gives a man more attitude and character and it signifies masculinity and confidence. Sometimes that rough edge can make him look very interesting too.  They all look totally different when it comes to their personal style, but they all share this one remarkable style element: a beard.

(Eva Dusch)

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