Salvatore Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

It might have been a summer collection we were watching; today Ferragamo was all about coats. Strong trench coats with military details followed each other in a fast pace during the show. Done in shades of beige, kaki, off white and black they looked extremely wearable.

They were either matched with slim pants and ankle boots in the same shade or skirts and knee high, peep toe boots in which many of the girls almost took a tumble. Massimiliano Giornetti worked with lots of different styles and fabrics. He used mesh tops, suede and leather together in one look and thanks to the fact that he did every look in just one color that worked out perfectly.

Giornetti’s creations might not have been very exciting when it comes to shape; he did make sure every look had something grabbing your attention as it came down the runway. He used sheer lace details, leather accents (snake skin and croc too) and added a touch of shiny metallic to glam it all up. The result? A selection of fine day wear clothing, which can easily be mixed and matched into any woman’s wardrobe. And perhaps she can look for another pair of knee high boots…

Trussardi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

What better place to hold a fashion party than on a Manhattan building’s rooftop? Right. So for Trussardi Umit Benan Sahin took us there for a cocktail and the presentation of his summer collection. His dress code didn’t exactly read cocktail, though, as models appeared in menswear inspired looks. grandma dresses and sporty casual wear.

Long tailored pants made the model’s legs look sky high as loose fitting tops and jackets gave them a little more ‘body’. Sahin made his Trussardi girls look streetwise too, by playing with leather parts and letting the models walk with their hands in their pockets. Chopped up bangs and shoulders bags added to that effect.

The few dresses maybe added an extra touch of femininity, though the contrast was a bit high compared to the tough street chic looks.

Going Trussardi next summer? Pick your favorite elements (sporty, menswear inspired or vintage chic) and mix ‘em up with your personal wardrobe. Just play around a bit, there’s never just one way of wearing things.

 

 

Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Firmness. Sparseness as elegance. The new Marni collection is a weightless exploration of volume. Form is reduced to its pure essence, laid bare to expose the precision of the cut and beauty of the fabric.
Clothes stand away from the body, gently drawing moving contours around it. They float, fold and turn. Silhouettes are clean and sculpted: A-line, trapeze and to the knee.
A sense of spontaneity is focal: dresses look like fabric was folded, rather than cut, into the final shape; pleats and peplums create sensuous additions on tops and skirts. The tension between delicacy and strictness adds nuance: short-sleeved shirts and matching pants are as efficient as uniforms; basques bring focus on the hips; flowery patterns are feisty.
The color palette contains white, black, dark green, touches of aqua, pale grey, orange, red, purple. Firm, compact fabrics enhance the bare pureness of the lines: cotton canvas, tape jacquard, bonded leather.

Emilio Pucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Peter Dundas, the British designer at Pucci, proved himself capable of designing collections for this Florentine house without the famous kaleidoscopic Pucci-prints. And still, it’s as glamorous and elegant as it ever was.
For Spring, Dundas filtered his style signatures through the lens of Vietnam. The designer used occasional military reference as well as traditional Asian motifs and showed bomber jackets, sheer veiling, tattoo embroideries, and a cargo jacket in kimono-style. The collection did have some prints, but they were not the focus.  This time Dundas layered a woodblock motif over the vintage find to make it modern.

Aquilano & Rimondi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

There was a lot going on in Aquilano & Rimondi’s spring collection. Inspired by Fellini, couturier Roberto Capucci, the Venice Carnival and Picasso; designs indeed were a mix of many influences. Argyle patterns (in black, white and metallic shades) were used throughout the complete collection, on the balloon-y short skirts and over the knee pencil versions. Skirts that were combined with corset bodies and several wide sleeved tops (some Japanese details in between all the Italian references).

There were some exquisite looks, which combined skirts, peplums and tight bodies. Yet there were some ill fitting ones too, which will probably never work on the body of an average woman. There were no pants in sight, no sweater, no jackets; no tees. Meaning for a wearable daywear look the Aquilano & Rimondi woman will probably have to shop elsewhere. Yet if she has a party coming up that midi argyle printed skirt combined with that ivory top might just blow everyone else away.

Streetfashion Womenswear Milan SS2013 Day 4

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Kenzo-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashionweek, season spring/summer 2013.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Pure, minimal, reduced. Jil Sanders first women’s collection under her own name since 8 years was exactly what she is know for. The designs were both pure and true to her way of looking at clothes, which is to make an intelligent, respectful appeal to women of all ages. The show opened with a sleeveless coat-dress that, over a white blouse, looked like a schoolgirl jumper. It was followed by another coat-dress whose sleeves fell to just below the elbow. Dresses were her focus. Working in structured fabrics in wine and navy, Sander cut almost everything with room, usin constructions and techniques to sculpt, round and extend shoulders, sleeves and hips. Movement underscored the collection, like the jacket whose subtly exaggerated back swung elegantly; or the oversized culottes that swished like a silk skirt; or the boots with zips that spiraled around the calf.

Antonio Marras Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Antonio Marras took his show as an opportunity to throw a little party. He wanted to celebrated a new alliance with manufacturer Castor with a wedding party. Guests where sitting around little tables drinking coffee and eating iced sponge cake. The models paraded about in dresses and coats made from patchworks of bouclé fabrics, damasks and tweeds in candied almond shades.

Versus Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Christopher Kane himself described today’s Versus collection as Cartoon-y and toy-like. And well.. that pretty much covers every look. For fifteen minutes Donatella and Christopher welcomed us into their plastic Barbie-like world. Colors (pink, yellow, blue) were bright, materials (a lot of plastic) shiny and prints (several polka dot variations) clownesque & playful. The designers even came up with accessories, shoes and a few designs made out of plastic chains. There were fully printed looks, flirty asymmetrical dresses, patent leather coats, sheer pink pants and sporty mesh tops. Mix that all together and you’ve got yourself a fun selection of sixties inspired looks. Add a performance of Beth Ditto (singing from above the photographers’ pit) and it’s the ultimate Saturday afternoon entertainment. Optimism is the feeling Versus wants to spread for SS2013 so let’s keep that spirit!

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Tomas Maier  focused intenso on dresses and the silhouette for the Bottega Veneta ss2013-collection. The dresses had a strong Forties-vibe with slender shapes and without hard shoulders. Each design looked like a treasure found in a vintage shop, but without the dust. These dresses glanced back at the past, but the cuts were modern and the embroideries state-of-the-art.
It was the workmanship that made these dresses so special. Like a  dress collaged from two different flower prints, the bodice folded and pintucked and the seams, all of them, edged with glossy strips of snakeskin lined with matte bronze studs.

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