DSquared catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014
‘James Dean crashed with his plane on a tropical island and adapts’, that was in short the story that inspired the Caten-twins to design their ss14 DSquared-collection. The show opened with a model taking a shower under a tropical waterfall wearing nothing than a pair of briefs from the duo’s new underwear and swimwear-line. The James Dean the duo imagined chopped off his cotton pants at mid-calf, but kept his biker jacket. Also in hun survival-wardrobe: Bermuda shorts with tropical motifs and rockabilly T-shirts, slouchy, laser-cut shorts and jackets made from a lightweight, waterproof fabric.
The Fifties flavor was felt throughout — on a curtain print, for example, which evolved into cropped pants and jackets, as well as in eveningwear.
Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014
Silvia Venturini Fendi designed her ss14 menswear-collection with ‘Extreme Heat’ in mind. The result was a streamlined collection with crisp and slim suits and oversized outerwear. Some pockets and seams were trimmed with strips representing tape, which gave it a raw edge. Colors were deep and saturated, rust, ochre and indigo. Sometimes a bit faded, like bleached by the sun.
Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014
What looked like a setting of an exotic holiday changed with the threatening sound of a military helicopter at the start of the show. Miuccia Prada wanted to create a dark and menacing feeling with het ss2014-show she told Womens Wear Daily backstage. Her story, that a conflict-torn globe makes finding a carefree place almost impossible, made for a daring collection and a show as captivating as a film noir set in pre-war Honolulu.
The collection: Hawaiian shirts, broken suits, satin-like blousons, and leisure shoes cloaked in rubber. The models looked as if they dressed themsleves in panic and just grabbed some clothes they could find. The colors were dark for a spring collection, as is noticed in more Milanese collections. Prada spiced up her palette with bold and lively prints of jungle foliage and pinup girls, even putting them onto leather briefcases and weekender.
The silhouette was very relaxed in double-breasted or single-breasted jackets. They looked great over silky printed shirts and full-legged trousers.
Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014
Angela Missoni presented a fresh, comfortable ss14 collection and introduced a new loom knit made with a rubber coated yarn in indigo, sand and sage green, which she used to create overcoats and short parkas.
Cardigans — some loosely knit, others light — had an airy feel and were done in a palette inspired by West African fabrics. The fabrics were also used as inspiration for classic men’s suits, featuring plaid patchwork patterns on cool wool, as well as a series of pleated linen pants and cargo shorts.
Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014
Multiple shades of blue- from morning sky pale to Yves Klein intense – dominated the spring collection of Calvin Klein. It was graphic, athletic and slyly streetwise. There were color-blocked bombers and bonded wool trousers, or workers in stiff shirt jackets with silver snap fasteners looked futuristic. Interesting were the series of photo-printed T-shirts and sweatshirts depicting salt flats and seascapes at mid-day, sunset and under the stars.
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Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014
Sport inspiration is everywhere in Milan this season, even at a classic house like Salvatore Ferragamo.
Creative director Massimiliano Giornetti used mustard, burnt orange, light blue, tomato and olive for his ummer suits worn with white shorts, or trousers and jackets in a texture cotton. He took the numbers 1, 2 and 4, inflated them, and placed them on stiff cotton sleeveless shirts and tunic tops, tanks, and knits.
There was a quilting motif too, for white leather jackets, and as a pattern on short plastic coats or cotton shirts. For outerwear, Giornetti played with volume.
Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014
Donatella Versace presented a playful collection full of shine and neon shades — models even wore thick strips of colored sports tape here and there on their bodies . There were leather jackets glistened with gold studs and zips, big rippling Medusa head on the back of shirts, and sheer black lace dress shirts. Then there were clean-cut tailored suits with a roomy silhouette, shiny buttons and strong shoulders, jackets paired with shorts and trousers that gather, tracksuit style, around the ankle. And for all those party-animals there were neon paint-splattered jeans, sweatshirts, and boiler suits that reveal a man at play. Wow.
Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014
Jimmy Sommerville and Marianne Faithful were on the soundtrack of Jil Sanders menswear ss14 collection. Centre of this collection were crisp jackets and trim coats in cream, neon, black and white, the tailoring was boxy and lean. The neon popped up on cuffs and hems of loose white blousons and also edgings the inside-out seams of black blazers and trousers.
A futuristic edge gave the sculpted and glossy leathers and paper-like coats. A sporty vibe came from the oversized T-shirts and Bermuda-shorts.
Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014
The Dolce & Gabbana Men’s Summer 2014 drew inspiration from Sicilian mythology, whose Greek origins are still retraceable in places such as the Valle dei Templi of Agrigento, at the majestic amphitheatres, like the one at Taormina, and at the Tempio di Apollo of Syracuse.
Visible on the catwalk were prints that represented the classic mythology through the faces of Zeus, Apollo and of antique temples. Besides the stretchy and tight-fitted suits (mostly in white) were blousons mixed with linen pants, shorts.
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The Big Round Up Womenswear FW 2013 Part 1
March 13, 2013 by Jetty
Filed under womenswear
Nothing as rewarding as summarizing after a grand series of shows. First of all you just note likeness and all similarities. Starting to pick out the headlines it becomes clear that there is always something really exiting to spot! Same procedure for fall 2013. Next to continuous retrospection there was introspection – designers looking inward to find a personal way of expression and re-finding their personal signature. The ones who did, did not dive into trends, the trodden paths of competition, but sourced for their most intimate inspirations. The happy aftereffect is that we met moments of sincere emotion and passion. The most beautiful quote to conclude this was coming from Miuccia Prada: “Who cares about the dress?” she said, this is about “Stories of women and life,”, Phoebe Philo declared backstage after her show for Céline: “It was coming from a place of emotion and intimacy, something instinctive. There was softness and desire, to create something emotionally engaged.”
Some collections might not have had the shock of the new and many showed that swift notion of the mid-century modern. Most interesting it was when a faint whiff of nostalgia was balanced with nowness. A lingering trend we spotted was the eccentric mixture of nostalgic wallpaper florals, art nouveau, Scottish heritage, Art Deco and Liberty blooms. All simmering in romance.
The buzz words where: intimate, feminine, elegance and emotion. Not just the collections played their roll. In some cases the interest in settings and sceneries became predominant. The Vuitton show unrolled like a silent movie. The mood was the 1920s, as the models came through each door on the corridor that was the hotel set. An atmosphere just as cinematic was the Film Noir setting at Prada – a spinning ceiling fan, shadows cast by blinds, a woman silhouetted in a doorway, waiting for…? All by means of an artful back projection. Miuccia launched her exercise in fashion as cinema.
Another hot topic was warmth generated by tactile softness. Cuddly, fluffy and sheltering. The number of soft and brushed looks grew steadily during this catwalk season. Especially coats where cuddly and generous in proportion. For some designers softness was the covering theme. Hernandez for Proenza Schouler stated: “It was all just soft, that’s the one word we were thinking about. Softness of form, softness of color, softness of texture.”
To wrap this up we point out that coats took the lead. Generally and globally this item won when it came to presence and quantity as well as quality of design. So passion, warmth, softness and coats. Setting the stage for an ice age!
We picked the frozen cherries for you, straight off the international catwalks in New York, Milan and Paris.
FEMINITY REVEALED
From left to right: Rodarte, Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Chloé and Prada
From pure exposure to more subtle revelations – intimacy exposed at Saint Laurent, emerging womanhood at Chloé, modern romance at Rodarte and passionate nostalgia at Vuitton and Prada. Sensuality and emotions unraveled in cinematic atmospheres showed femininity ‘under cover’ – soft lace hidden under long tweed coats, fluffy sweaters came with a slip of a skirt and velvet dresses had a swoop of neckline.
CALM ELEGANCE
From left to right: Jil Sander, Victoria Beckham, Hermès, Rochas, Ports 1961
A true timeless elegance flooded the catwalks at Jil Sander, Victoria Beckham, Hermès, Rochas and Ports 1961. Much more serene, feminine and sensual then the calm sobriety we faced seasons before. All soft and rounded. The skirts flaring just below the knee, showing true elegance in New Look proportions. Jackets elongated and slightly suppressed at the waist and coats – mannish and reassuringly oversize. All breathed calmness with lasting value in an esprit ranging from ‘Bon Chic Bon Genre’ to Film Noir allure. Slow, calm, quiet and with lasting value.
GREY MOOD
From left to right: Alexander Wang, Stella McCartney, Céline, J.W. Anderson, Lacoste
Concrete caught by the fuzz. Grayed-out and foggy marls were key for fall 2013. Brushed mohair, heathery and airy fleeces, compact felts and tarmac shaded double-face and bonded materials. This all added up to strange and sculptural beautiful cloths. Asphalt fleece and mohair knits are paved with iridescence at Alexander Wang, Stella McCartney wrapped her models in pinstripes, where Céline knotted hers in felt touch woolens. Monastic tunics at J.W. Anderson and fossil florals at Ports 1961.
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