Marni Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2016

With a Tim Burton-esque soundtrack playing in the backround, Consuelo Castiglioni’s return to the Milan runway with Marni men’s wear captured the awkward juncture between boyhood and the adult world. Outsized collars splayed over leisure suits that could have been nabbed from an uncle’s Seventies vacation wardrobe. Pants, whether loose or slim, were often too short and showed chunky socks and sandals.

It all had a naïve charm that was true to Castiglioni’s retro-tinged aesthetic. She embraced workwear codes to explore that no-man’s land between leisure and the office: employing lots of Maytag-repairman blue, or shades evoking Soviet-era uniforms; adding utility pockets to shrunken blazers, and splicing suit sleeves onto boxy shirts. Somehow the queasy colors, funny shapes and occasional flash of noisy floral prints managed to work together.

DSquared catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear FW2015

When two designers like Dean and Dan Caten mark their 20th anniversary, one can expect an over the top celebration. The duo did not disappoint — at least on the frolic front — with a great venue and live entertainment.

Heavy rain did not withhold guests from flocking to the Hangar Bicocca in Milan on Friday night, where Anselm Kiefer’s installation “The Seven Heavenly Palaces” served as backdrop for a fashion show. There was one recurring look — skinny denim pants with cowboy boots, plus outerwear options ranging from common puffers to lumberjack jackets inspired by the duo’s home and native land. This looked best when the Canadian mountaineer took on a rock ’n’ roll guise in parkas generously lined with fur and styled with matching trapper hats.

The highlight was a surprise performance by Mary J. Blige, who walked out for the finale dressed in an embroidered burgundy tuxedo, followed by the twins lip-singing to her rendition of U2’s “One.” It was her birthday, too.

Streetfashion Menswear FW2013 Milan Day 3

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Menswear, season fall/winter 2013.

 

Streetfashion Menswear FW2013 Milan Day 2

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Menswear, season fall/winter 2013.

 

Streetfashion Menswear FW2013 Milan Day 1

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Menswear, season fall/winter 2013.

Giorgio Armani Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Easy Comfort. Giorgio Armani sent out a legion of unstructured silhouettes ranging from gently rumpled jackets with unpadded shoulders to the laid-back white suits, with Bermuda shorts that closed the show. ‘This is a sexy man, but a classy one, a classy gigolo,’, the designer told reporters of WWD. Well, he was the man who set a new sartorial standard for the male archetype in 1980 when he dressed Richard Gere for his first major film role in American Gigolo.
Knits ranged from the loose fitting to the more body-conscious. Sports jackets — some the color of faded denim — had a breezy, lived-in look.
After the show, Armani told reporters that designers have a role to play in educating men and improving the way they look. “Fashion has reached grotesque levels, and [with this collection] I felt the need to stand my ground, to improve men aesthetically.”