Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear ss2012

Shiny, streamlined and sexy like a car, that was Prada’s ss2012 womenswear-collection. The sweet colors, full (pleated) skirts and carcoats reminded of the Fifties but of course Miucca Prada added her own modern touch by the use of fabrics, prints and accessories. And instead of last summer’s bananas she presented another print that surely will be copied sooner or later: cartoon cars and Thunderbird-flames.

There was more, of course:  grey felt coats with appliqué flowers all over the front in blue and cream or in orange and green; stiff, pleated skirts worn to the knee with Thunderbird-flames in pale pink broderie anglaise; cotton tube tops worn over pencil skirts; cotton house coats in pale blue with lapels in a contrasting print;  dresses with elastic in the waist. This was certainly a collection to be remembered.

Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan ss2012

The models at the Fendi-show looked like housewives from the Sixties with their beehive hair and pleated dresses with apron-fronts. The collection Karl Lagerfeld presented reminded us of women cooking, baking and cleaning dressed in stiff apron-like dresses, black and white ensembles, bermudas and jackets. It was a no nonsense chic, with the fly-eye shades and cotton jackets, featuring bare shoulderparts and soft, shapely cuts to match the full skirts.

The tufted fur coats of mustard and green fox, wide mesh striped knits and multiple bangles worn up the wrist had a homespun appeal. While the sleeveless cable-knit jumpers – oversized in cream or black with sheer back panels – and the little jackets added a more casual feeling.

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear ss2012 Day 1

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, your latest Celine-dress or that vintage Givenchy? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan  Fashion Week.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan ss2012

From the flowing, moody jewel-colored Seventies style to a more constructed, hard and geometric jazzy style – that’s the turn Gucci-designer Frida Giannini took this season. And this anniversary-collection looks quite different. Polished as ever, but with jazzy influences (flapper-dresses), references from the Twenties and Thirties, Louise Brooks, African Art and Man Ray. But also the geometric lines of the art deco style the American way – as in the Chrysler building – and the metallic surfaces. Giannini herself said in the show-notes she wanted to show an optical side of femininity, a sculptural glamor.

Well, glamorous it was, and polished but somehow it lacked a certain softness and sensuality. Maybe it’s because of the mix of equestrian elements like striped, double-breasted jockey-jackets, the green/ocre/white and black. Or the straight lines and hard metallics.

Hopefully we’ll find more of Gucci’s sensual warmth in the museum that’s soon to be opened in Florence.

 

 

Hello Milan!

The team landed in Milan yesterday and we’re ready to give you all ins and outs about the womenswear-collections ss2012 in Milan plus streetwear-posts. Also: check our video’s.  Today we start with Gucci and Alberta Ferretti. You will see the pictures and reviews later this afternoon. Enjoy!

 

Burberry Prorsum Catwalk Fashion Show SS2012

It has been a while since Burberry Prorsum designer Christopher Bailey presented such a strong collection. Less commercial and predictable, more sensitive and daring regarding the fabrics, ethnic theme, colors and prints. Of course it had this typical British/Bailey  details like the small pant with straight, narrow legs, the fitted jackets, pimped up brogues, the old fashioned cardigans and of course a large variety of coats. Those coats where the main part of the collection, but the accents made the difference: the collars in multi-colored patterns or fluffy fur. Funny and delightful were the (golf)shoes with thick cork-soles and bright colorful details, the knitted sweaters, the shirts and pants in African inspired patterns (the ones Mandela likes) or ikats and the colors which moved between navy-blue to mustard, yellow, burnt orange and beige.

It sure will let the sun come out on a rainy day.

Watch the show here

Round Up Milan FW2011

All lovely femininity and seduction is what we perceived past week in Milan. This is definitely part of the Milan signature. Here are some linking influences to round up Milan: a shared sense of nostalgia, amazing fabrics (it’s all in the mix) and exiting colour schemes.

Gucci and Prada put a big mark on this Milan season. They are the runners up in the 5 influences we like to quote.

SIXTIES Prada moved us towards the 60s and 70s, some literary references like dropped waists with big, low-slung belts and chunky buttons. But most of all innovative and refreshing.

GLAM: Gucci reinforces the 20’s, 30’s feel, which was already strong in NY, and this was done masterful in an amazing mix of saturated shades, topped with lush fur and loads of feminine flair.

SOFT COLOUR: a statement made by Missoni, new hues which will surely be of influence in the near fashion future.

MASCULINE/FEMININE: Ferragamo played the masculine against the feminine wonderfully and we’ve seen more of these androgynous twists at Dolce & Gabana, Dsquared² and Sportmax.

SHINE: when it came to all the shiny surface effects, another BIG issue, Etro, the master of print, was one of the many designers who showed these artfully.

One last remark! Long lengths, extremely long, but still (we didn’t count) we’re sure Milan showed more knee then NY. We guess since most designers are referencing towards a more recent era.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam.

First View Milan FW2011: More Lace

There’s more lace to come from Milan! We spotted it in New York and London and got it confirmed now in Milan. Lace is a red thread linking collections, looks and styles.From cobwebby, embroidered, chunky to featherweight. Plasticized, coated, printed and sequined. From antique to high tech and modernistic.

In Milan, it was most of all used the authentic way. Pretty and lady like, refined Chantilly lace.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View Milan FW2011: Soft Color

The soft colors that popped up in Milan are definitely an opening towards a new spirit.

A fresh palette launched by Bottega Veneta, Missoni and Etro. Pale precious pastels. Not just soft in shades, also dimensional peach-touch fabrics with lots of knots, curls and pile. Candy coloured yet not that sweet, the unusual fabrics and wild combinations give this look a daring twist that makes us curious to see more of it next season.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Arrivederci Milano!

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