Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Today’s Fendi show seemed to be about ‘more is more’. Not in an Anna dello Russo way though. No, instead of bold, printed, over-accessorised looks Karl presented rich winter looks in which he not only played with structure and texture but also with color.

His creations had a patchwork look to them, being made of many different materials, ranging from fur to silk and from leather to lace. Therefore every single look was ‘cut’ into several pieces. Something those tall slim models can work with, yet seems more challenging for the everyday woman.

Due to the rich styled looks we hardly knew where to focus on. Those partly pleated, partly fur skirts definitely caught our eyes. The beautifully shaped peplums/belts deserved some of our attention too. And then, of course, there were the coats, in fur (white, colored, degrade – Hello Sesame Street), with pointed shoulders and made out of two separate (one long, one short) pieces.

With those heavy materials and a color palette ranging from olive green to burgundy the collection definitely was winter proof. Yet for ‘normal’ woman to be able to pull some of these looks off it could have been slightly more fool proof too.

 

Blugirl Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

 

The Blugirl show felt as if we stepped into Anna Molinari’s very own doll house. In her colorful richly accessorized looks her models portrayed cuteness to the max.

First we met with her college girls, dressed red, blue and green in argyle sweaters and toggle coats. Then Anna introduced her pastel pretties, in fur light colored looks, topped off by pastel shades earmuffs. The third group of models were Blugirl’s Snowbunnies in fully white and off white outfits which had a shiny detail here and there. And models in party dresses (black from head to toe) closed the show.

The collection was girly, young and great fun to watch. Styled in a more subtle way some of those unique items will be pretty damn wearable too.

 

Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Alberta Ferretti surprised most of the audience with a dark collection, dark in color and atmosphere. It was a relatively restricted, severe silhouette and moodier color-palette – but still pretty. To fashion-reporters Alberta Ferretti explained she wanted a wardrobe for a strong, modern woman who has to keep up with today’s challenges. Well, all she needs is a sharp coat, a chunky knit and a multi–functional dress or skirt with chiffon top. Black, purple and blue were the main colors with some hues of white, orange and gray. Evening-wear followed the line of the body in anatomical seams.

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Bauhaus architecture and the movies of Fritz Lang were inspirations for MaxMara’s clean shapes accentuated by a single sharp detail or contrast, like a wool coat with a skirt of shaven fur or wool jersey tops banded in crocodile-print leather. There were also wool dresses and jackets with draped backs that reminded of  a classic couture shape, and a revival of the jumpsuit, now looking like a short  wool jacket with slim trousers. Sometimes it had a  naval character with the navy blue coats, breton-striped shirts and wide pants. And not only the navy went through the collection, also trher military influences.

N21 Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

That was quite a style-icon Alessandro dell’ Aqua took as an inspiration for his fall-collection: Queen Elizabeth. Especially how the queen dresses in her private life.  The designer played with a masculine-feminine theme, using mannish fabrics like tweed, which he softened with ultrafeminine details. These looks included a tweed minidress with an organza overlay and an apronlike dress in the same fabric with a subtle lace hem, or a macramé top tucked into a jeweled skirt.

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2012 Day 1

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Miu Miu-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

In a palette of purple, navy, forest green, dark brown and black Frida Giannini presented a dark, romantic Gucci collection. She called it modern day romanticism, wit a touch of military, dandy and elegance. There were flat heeled riding boots, wide cut, cropped jackets with gold buttons and softly belted velvet smoking jackets. There was more velvet in the appliqué flowers on translucent chiffon and lace blouses. Skirts had a split in the back, riding trousers flounced wide over each thigh and the full lengtht column dresses were shiny and glittering. Giannini focused on day clothes worn in texturally intense layerings. It sometimes reminded of good old Yves St. Laurent.

The evening-gowns were spectacular, and aimed at the coming next Oscar red-carpet moment.

Etro Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Etro designer Kean Etro couldn’t get enough of feathers for his FW2012-collection. Feather-prints, real fathers, at shoes, vests, blazers and tailcoats. It gave all the formal and evening looks a fancy edge, but it didn’t lead to a strong collection. Of course there was the usual velvet, the fitted suit and the usual dark colors plus red and orange, which made the collection fit in the trend of romance & decadence.

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear ss2012 Day 6

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, your latest Celine-dress or that vintage Givenchy? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan  Fashion Week.

First View Milan ss2012: Dare to be Bare

How relieved where we when top-lengths dropped covering midriffs generously half a decade ago. After seasons of revealed bellies the elongated tops seemed so much more luxurious and sophisticated. Yet now we seem to enter a period of hedonism once more, celebrating the body, enjoying fashion and consuming style.

It might be a more reduced and considerate attitude, yet true fashion lovers do go for show-off. A rich variation of midriff-baring sweet nothings show once more the likes for frivolous looks. Where the Belgium professor Helmut Gaus once ‘proved’ that skirt-lengths dropped during depression, these research results surely don’t correlate with top-lengths moving up in depth of crisis. In Milan we note barely-there bandeaux at Versace, lush wrap tops at Blumarine, puffed and crafted tunnel tops at Prada, where Emilio Pucci goes gypsy with intricate lace trimmed  bra-tops.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

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