Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

It seemed a never ending collection that Dolce & Gabbana sent out this afternoon. A collection that captured Italy’s love for drama and opera. Pavarotti was on the soundtrack singing O sole mio and out came the models dressed in baroque black velvet and gold brocade, covered with dramatic capes, dresses embroidered with images of painted old theater-ceilings. Even the earrings looked like little cherubs and shoes reminded of theater furniture and decorations.

The press release said the starting-point was the tradition of Sicilian Baroque, which evolved in volumes and processes, experimenting in new cuts and decorations: golden embroideries that recall Baroque mirrors and frames or embroideries made of small points inspired by dining room tapestries; prints of cherubs and angels that appear to have come out of a painting.

CNC Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

In the show notes designer Ennio Capasa of CnC Costume Nationel explained his collection was about  ‘an imaginative woman in a virtual metropolis’ who is ‘post-punk, post-chic but above all technological’. Like the Girl with the Dragon Tattoo? It’s clear that this type of tough girl is inspiring more designers, if not the colthes it’s the beauty of Rooney Mara (her dark, short hair and black make-up). Fabrics were extra shiny, like a slick patent leather. Capasa used it for robust outerwear in boxy shapes with diagonal zippers. The result was futuristic and a bit aggressive.

Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Today’s Fendi show seemed to be about ‘more is more’. Not in an Anna dello Russo way though. No, instead of bold, printed, over-accessorised looks Karl presented rich winter looks in which he not only played with structure and texture but also with color.

His creations had a patchwork look to them, being made of many different materials, ranging from fur to silk and from leather to lace. Therefore every single look was ‘cut’ into several pieces. Something those tall slim models can work with, yet seems more challenging for the everyday woman.

Due to the rich styled looks we hardly knew where to focus on. Those partly pleated, partly fur skirts definitely caught our eyes. The beautifully shaped peplums/belts deserved some of our attention too. And then, of course, there were the coats, in fur (white, colored, degrade – Hello Sesame Street), with pointed shoulders and made out of two separate (one long, one short) pieces.

With those heavy materials and a color palette ranging from olive green to burgundy the collection definitely was winter proof. Yet for ‘normal’ woman to be able to pull some of these looks off it could have been slightly more fool proof too.

 

Blugirl Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

 

The Blugirl show felt as if we stepped into Anna Molinari’s very own doll house. In her colorful richly accessorized looks her models portrayed cuteness to the max.

First we met with her college girls, dressed red, blue and green in argyle sweaters and toggle coats. Then Anna introduced her pastel pretties, in fur light colored looks, topped off by pastel shades earmuffs. The third group of models were Blugirl’s Snowbunnies in fully white and off white outfits which had a shiny detail here and there. And models in party dresses (black from head to toe) closed the show.

The collection was girly, young and great fun to watch. Styled in a more subtle way some of those unique items will be pretty damn wearable too.

 

Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Alberta Ferretti surprised most of the audience with a dark collection, dark in color and atmosphere. It was a relatively restricted, severe silhouette and moodier color-palette – but still pretty. To fashion-reporters Alberta Ferretti explained she wanted a wardrobe for a strong, modern woman who has to keep up with today’s challenges. Well, all she needs is a sharp coat, a chunky knit and a multi–functional dress or skirt with chiffon top. Black, purple and blue were the main colors with some hues of white, orange and gray. Evening-wear followed the line of the body in anatomical seams.

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Bauhaus architecture and the movies of Fritz Lang were inspirations for MaxMara’s clean shapes accentuated by a single sharp detail or contrast, like a wool coat with a skirt of shaven fur or wool jersey tops banded in crocodile-print leather. There were also wool dresses and jackets with draped backs that reminded of  a classic couture shape, and a revival of the jumpsuit, now looking like a short  wool jacket with slim trousers. Sometimes it had a  naval character with the navy blue coats, breton-striped shirts and wide pants. And not only the navy went through the collection, also trher military influences.

N21 Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

That was quite a style-icon Alessandro dell’ Aqua took as an inspiration for his fall-collection: Queen Elizabeth. Especially how the queen dresses in her private life.  The designer played with a masculine-feminine theme, using mannish fabrics like tweed, which he softened with ultrafeminine details. These looks included a tweed minidress with an organza overlay and an apronlike dress in the same fabric with a subtle lace hem, or a macramé top tucked into a jeweled skirt.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

In a palette of purple, navy, forest green, dark brown and black Frida Giannini presented a dark, romantic Gucci collection. She called it modern day romanticism, wit a touch of military, dandy and elegance. There were flat heeled riding boots, wide cut, cropped jackets with gold buttons and softly belted velvet smoking jackets. There was more velvet in the appliqué flowers on translucent chiffon and lace blouses. Skirts had a split in the back, riding trousers flounced wide over each thigh and the full lengtht column dresses were shiny and glittering. Giannini focused on day clothes worn in texturally intense layerings. It sometimes reminded of good old Yves St. Laurent.

The evening-gowns were spectacular, and aimed at the coming next Oscar red-carpet moment.

Salve Milano!

We’ve arrived in Milan, where tomorrow Gucci will kick off the fall 2012 Fashion Week in Milan. We’ll keep you posted.