Calvin Klein Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show MIlan SS2016

 Italo Zucchelli’s collection for Calvin Klein was single-minded, reductive and repetitive — and it was all the better for it. For the designer distilled the essence of the brand — clean, minimal and as urbane as New York City — into his muscular tailoring and military-ish sportswear.

Sturdy fabrics like cotton-twill added stiffness to topcoats and short, strong-shouldered jackets. Zucchelli also employed cotton twills and jacquards to approximate a signature of the brand — denim — giving jeans and jean jackets a worn, yet sculptural aspect. The other main ingredients were military parkas, cropped nylon bombers, boxy T-shirts, and narrow chinos with a wavy loop of fabric tacked to the waistband, echoing the lacquered waves of color winking from sleeveless T-shirts layered under gauzy sweaters.

Some of the chinos and bombers were riddled with enough removable utility pockets to carry keys, smokes and cell phones.

 

 

Versace Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2016

Donatella Versace sent out a desert-inspired collection with laid-back silhouettes, lots of layers and bursts of warm color.
The designer layered long and fluttery printed shirts under plum, sand and olive suits — and even sent some out solo and belted like whisper thin robes. Pinstripes were made to look faded — as if bleached by the sun — as were muted tie-dye prints on suits and scarves, while tuxedo trousers with a drop crotch had a breezy Eastern feel.

Models in flowing, knotted silk headscarves — and wearing sandals and socks — made their way down the sandy catwalk dressed in languid, pajama-like suits and hooded bomber jackets printed with hand-drawn rosettes or patterns inspired by the Versace Home collection, such as cushions and chairs.

Bomber jackets came in plum leather or caramel with a subtle argyle pattern picked across them, while washed silk coats had oversized patch pockets, presumably for storing a compass, map and camel snacks. Knits — which rarely take a starring role on the Versace runway — were a treat, with one dip-dyed number glowing with colors as bright as a desert rose — purple, pink and blue. Other elongated knits came with slashes at the elbow or the shoulders, teasing with small windows onto the body, the only hint of flesh in the entire show.

Bottega Veneta Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2016

Tomas Maier has been steering the brand in an athletic meets leisure direction for some time now, and for ss16 he presented a luxe wardrobe for five-star trekking in the Black Forest. “A journey back to nature,” the designer said of his outdoor-like collection, an ode to earthy colors, mossy textures and slouchy or active silhouettes.
Much of this trail gear was literal — anoraks, windbreakers, climbing pants, Sherpa sweaters — albeit done with Maier’s sophisticated eye for colors and fabrics. He also blended in lounge-y items, including bedroom jackets and crumpled pants in ticking stripes. And of course the new normal detail: socks in sandals. It’s official now.

Neil Barrett Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2016

Neil Barrett stepped away from his sporty, street-vibe style and managed to change masculine classics from around the world to a modern universal wardrobe. The look was still urban and fresh, yet more ageless in design. He used batik prints, camouflage, nautical stripes and kimono patterns – reworked and fused together to conjure “an idea of a global masculinity.”  The mix of patterns did not overwhelm, because Barrett kept them together with one color story: all gradations of navy and indigo, with touches of black and white. The tight palette counterbalanced a wider spectrum of fabrics, with lots of denim. Low in the crotch but narrow on the hip, cuffed or with rolled-up hems, the  indigo bottoms let off an air of American workwear. Barrett performed the trick on non-denim, too, experimenting with slouchy and easy silhouettes as opposed to his usual sharp-cut look. As for tops, the designer went with spring’s hot new category: sleeveless V-neck tunics.

Jil Sander Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2016

In a season marked by soft shapes and rivers of fluid fabric, Designer Rodolfo Paglialunga presented a Jil Sander-collection with full of geometric shapes and far from soft & fluid silhouettes. Trousers stretched only to mid-calf, while suits came with knee-skimming shorts, and were made from lightweight leather, shiny, coated canvas, or crinkly parachute nylon.

The muted palette featured dove-gray, pale olive and black, while adornment came as a utility strap running down the side of a sleeve, and rectangular, colored patches in leather or dark shades of blue or brown. Bright abstract Japanese-style flower patches on denim jackets and snappy short-sleeved shirts added much-needed perk to the collection.

Trend Report SS2015 menswear: Pinkness

We know, we know; pink menswear clothing isn’t all that fashion forward anymore. Yet this time around designers (Dsquared, Louis Vuitton, Zegna) did opt for a super vibrant, fuchsia kind of summer version. It made overalls, short jackets and accessories stand out even more and gave the male models an extra bronze and sporty look. Slightly different was the (subtler kind of) pink vibe at Rick Owens, Thom Browne and Kenzo. Combining pastels is still a huge SS trend, making a menswear look appear softer, yet (combined with blue like at Etro) never less masculine. Whether head to toe in pink (Versace) is your thing or just a pop of color (Dsquared) is more up your alley; this shade makes the ultimate wardrobe color addition. The fellas will look so sharp in pink, they’ll make the ladies blush..

Trend Report SS15 menswear: Summer suits

Dear men. If you’re only breaking out your suit for office adventures or special occasions, you’re doing it wrong. This season we’re begging you to get out of those comfy jeans and lift your bum and well trained torso in some fine tailored suit. Because it’s no question whether it looks good on you, but which one suits you best. No one told you it has to be old-fashioned and dull. Forget about black and grey suits, spring is serving you new minimalism elevated with unexpected materials, colors and details. Make the blue suit your best compagnon, a dominant theme on the Dior Home runway and seen at Louis Vuitton and Gucci. Or take Miuccia Prada as an example who showed stiff denim trousers paired with denim jackets. And how refreshing was the playful layering, wearing a blazer over a denim jacket as seen at J.Crew and Fendi. This season, we’ve seen it all from khaki, to electric pink, to stripes, to cool turquoise, to geometric patterns and dots to shiny fabrics. Dress to impress seems to be the main message. How far are you willing to go?

Trend Report SS2015 menswear: Go Big (or go home)

Forget pinstripes and checks; any guy with a sense of style should go big on prints this season. Exotics (Y3), graphics (Kenzo), color explosions (Dsquared), kaleidoscopics (Dolce & Gabbana), paisleys (Etro), paints spatters (Givenchy) and bananas (Paul Smith) if it’s up to the designers. No pattern too busy, no palette too bright. Although a certain je ne sais quoi-attitude comes in handy, even for the lads. We’re still debating for at what occasion those heavy printed suits will do best, but the menswear printmotto couldn’t be cleared. Go big (or go home)!

Trend Report SS2015 menswear: Peek a boo

Of course we’ve had the low V-necks, but menswear tops have gotten more revealing this time around. Bottega Veneta, Bikkembergs, Armani among others have introduced torso revealing shirts. Which, when styled properly, show not just a little chest but even gives us a peek at the guy’s naval. The good news is even without an athlete’s body guys can pull this look of. Saint Laurent, Dries van Noten and Roberto Cavalli have proven that. It’s all about the right attitude… A certain Harry Styles nonchalance.. Shirt unbuttoned, sleeves rolled up, a few necklaces, a headband and some tattoos in the mix. C’mon, c’mon!

Trend Report SS2015 menswear: Jungle Vibes

Botanical influences are slowly but steadily popping up everywhere. Palm leaves, exotic florals and tropicals are adding an instant summer feeling to his wardrobe. Shirts, jackets, sweaters and pants are giving the flora & fauna treatment and haven’t looked this chic before. Whether full on printed (Givenchy, Cavalli and Antonio Marras) or combined with basics (Hermes, Paul Smith) menswear is in bloom!

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