Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
The ss2010 collection of Jean Paul Gaultier didn’t offer that many news. It started with a graphic black and white part, followed by color. It reminded us of the Sixties, op-art, Courreges. But the show continued in Gaultiers gender game, with guys in bras, bustiers and skirts. Been there, done that, saw it before.
Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Ah, that was a good old Dries van Noten show. Perfect location (the Bourse in Paris), great music (black eyed peas) and a beautiful collection full of contrasts: exotic versus minimal, colorful versus blue, pinstripe versus ikats and high tech versus handmade. Somehow it reflected the mood of these days: holding on to the past and welcoming the future. Dries van Noten returned to the eccentric, ethnic mood that made his menswear always so special.
Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
According to Paul Helbers and his team at Louis Vuitton bike messengers are ‘the gentlemen butterflies’ of the city. Ore maybe he wants them to be. Anyway, to honor those fast flying cool guys Helbers created a collection full of sleek, aerodynamic and athletic wear in high tech fabrics. The result was a contemporary collection that fits into a big mean metropolis, functional jackets in nylon and neoprene, cotton silk leggings, safari-jackets. The catwalk looked like asphalt and Lou Reed was on the soundtrack. Yellow was the color to be and prints looked like urban surfaces. And the shoes! They suggested graffitied glitter. If I were a man…
D&G Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Cowboys and rodeo were the theme of the D&Gshow. The catwalk was sunbaked, country&western was on the soundtrack and the designers got all the way and further. Jeans got studded, there was a lot of leather and tailoring was razorsharp. There was also a little Fiorucci-moment. Next summer D&G will come with a re-edition of the brand’s T-shirts and they showed them down the catwalk in front of Elio Fiorucci himself.
DSquared Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
We should have known after we received the floppy hat as an invitation for the DSquaredshow. It’s camping-time. And the Caten-twins thought about everything, even the ants in their pants. They stuck glittery little insects all over a Speedo. The collection was much of the same: denim, short shorts, perfect outerwear and of course beautiful hunks.
John Varvatos Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Normally everything John Varvatos designs breathes rock ‘n roll. Not this time. He opened his show in Milan with narrow shorts and waistcoats. Besides a lot of white and grey there were some shots of color in parkas like pale yellow and coppery red . The collection was sophisticated with smart details, ande gave us finally a perfect view on what Varvatos is capable of. We’ll leave the rock ‘n roll for other times.
Prada’s moviescene
The setting of the Prada-menswearshow looked like a large Alice in Wonderland box with shiny walls and shiny black & white floor. The quotes that dressed the set came from old black and white movies that highlighted the discussed masculinity. The effect was dazzling and somehow disturbing.
Prada Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Miuccia Prada’s collection looked like an old Fifties movie, a little odd, vintage futuristic and yet very modern. She focused on grey suits, but thanks to modern fabrics like mesh, new loose wovens and graphic patterns the models looked like they came from another planet. Suits were pared to their barest bones, perforated, stripped of sleeves and any traditional detail. Instead of shirts there were raw hemmed, silky V-necks. It was sexy, sensitive and even vulnerable. But also young.
Thom Browne for Moncler
Thom Brownes own shows are a carefully staged performance where little is left to coincidence. So it didn’t came as a surprise the Moncler collection he showed in the old swimmingpool at Milans Viale Tunisia was of the same kind. We think Leni Riefenstahl would have loved it. Maybe Browne got inspired by history of the building, founded in the thirties under Mussolini.
Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Transparency was the keyword of Calvin Klein’s menswearcollection, designed by Italo Zucchelli. It’s a trend we saw with more labels. Zucchelli pushed the idea into another, futuristic world. Using America’s archetypal sportswear he shows a vision of the way men might ideally dress in a parallel universe. Seethrough fabrics, mesh cardigans and jackets, transparent parka’s and shiny surfaces in silver grey, black and stone. Plus a serie in orange and turquoise, because color is the new black.
