Trends ss2010: the men’s skirt

The men’s skirt has been all over the news lately. Maybe because fashion brand H&M recently introduced a men’s skirt for their spring/summer collection 2010. And usually when H&M comes up with a trend it is picked up by many followers.

Of course H&M is not the first brand to introduce the men’s skirt. We’ve seen this fashion item on the runway for years. One true lover and wearer of skirts is designer  Marc Jacobs, who takes his bows most of the time dressed in a kilt.

This year there were some skirts in the menswear collections as well. At Thom Browne we spotted an ultra short version, at the show of Jean Paul Gaultier (one of the first designers with skirts for men)  the skirts were much longer. Rick Owens’ models wore multiple layers, one of those layers being the skirt. Other brands which had skirts in their collection were John Galliano, Francisco van Benthum and Kris van Assche.

We’re very curious if the skirt will become the trend for men in 2010.

Trends ss2010: sporty fashion

Hoodies, zippers, caps, sleeveless tops, short shiny jackets and net fabrics dominated the menswear collections for 2010. That can only mean one thing: sports influences.

There was the basketball look (Kris van Assche), the gymnastic look (Francisco van Benthum, Calvin Klein) and the football look (Bikkembergs). There were sailing types (Burberry), the boxer types (Ann DeMeulemeester), the diving types (Moncler Gamme Blue, Gucci) the golf player and the horse back rider (Frankie Morello).

Especially Gucci had a lot of shiny sports jackets, not referring to a specific sport.

Sportswear and casual wear really seemed to merge with each other on the catwalk. Of course menswear is always a little bit sporty, but this time sports were all over the place. However, whether a tanktop made  of a net fabric is very suitable for going to the office remains to be seen.

Trends ss2010: tight fitted

At the menswear fashion shows we spotted lots of suits. Complete suits in one color or just combinations of pants and jackets. The remarkable thing about those pants and jackets was that they were all pretty tight fitting. So the muscular bodies of the models were clearly accentuated.

Givenchy, Gucci, Calvin Klein, Lanvin, Moschino and Paul Smith showed some tight  looks. The jackets were often left unbuttoned.

Another trend we saw at the menswear collections were the tucked up sleeves. The boys at the fashion shows of Costume National, Vivienne Westwood, Etro, Raf Simons Lanvin and John Richmond  had it all. We spotted some short sleeves as well at the Neil Barrett and the Cerrutti show.

So  wear your suit a little tighter next season. Loose fitted is so 2009!

Trends ss2010: men in red

When we look at the menswear collections for spring/summer 2010 one thing immediately catches our attention:  together with black, white and beige we see lots of bright colors.

Blue, red and purple dominated the new collections, especially the ones by Bottega Veneta, CP Company, Dirk Bikkembergs, Armani and Ferragamo. At Ungaro the models wore lots of pink.

Since we saw mostly red in the spring/summer collection, let’s focus at that. It came by in dozens of different shades. At Armani, Ferragamo and Gaultier the red tended towards orange. At Lanvin and Emporio Armani a deep red prevailed. One of Paul Smith’s models was totally covered in red, including his shoes.

Many red coats passed by. A few in leather (Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Ferragamo, Iceberg), some trenchcoats (Paul Smith, Trussardi) and several jackets (Gucci, Bikkembergs, Bottega Veneta).

With so many shades of red there will surely be one that matches your skin tone. So no one has an excuse not to follow this red color trend next season.

Thom Browne Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

OntFront Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

Ontfront started out as an underground platform for young artists, fashion designers and musicians. Aware of the fact that the clothing industry is oversaturated, OntFront came up with a fresh concept. What do you wear when you’re grown too old for your neon one-liner t-shirts and you don’t want to wear a suit? And what do you wear when you want to look sharp, but not stiff? Sidewalk Tailoring is the answer. By combining classic suit tailoring with cutting edge street influences OntFront bridges the gap between these two distinct styles. For spring/summer 2010 OntFront created a 60 piece collection called ” Tonight is the Knight”. Inspired by the bold iron armor of the middle ages. Classic elements of the harness were translated into sophisticated and comfortable pieces for the modern knights.

Showtime, at Dior Homme

You’ll never see this at a runway-picture, but this is the setting of most of the catwalkshows. For example, Dior Homme.

Dior Homme Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Kris van Assche sent out a sensual, ultralight layered collection for Dior Homme. Tailored but very comfortable, with blazers als sheer as possible. There were also gym-influenced pieces like mesh tops under a sheer cardigan, or ultralight knits.

Paul Smith Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Paul Smith’s summer-collection has that old vintage vibe with a very toned down color palette – and that’s new for Smith. The show started with sober grey suits and evolved in a more sheen part and colors from pale pastels to purple, orange/red. To make it all more relaxed he paired the suits with espadrilles and pineapple-like prints. At the finale Paul Smith and his models were dancing down the catwalk to’ Thriller ‘. This was a happy end of an interesting fashion season.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

‘The best thing about fashion is the freedom to be’, says Albert Elbaz – creative director of Lanvin. And from this point of view the Lanvin-man can wear anything he wants, from sleeveless jackets, to shirts with a tine bow on a neckline or at the waist, kimono-cut shirts, high waisted khakis, puff sleeves or silk shorts. Lucas Ossendrijver did a wonderful job here, to mix the glamourous with the more adventurous.

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