Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Dirk Bikkembergs

Not only people from the fashion industry could attend Dirk Bikkembergs Sports Couture show this year; tickets to the show were also sold to any fashion lover who wanted to pay for it. The money that was raised by this, would go to charity.

After a countdown,  tough-looking muscular men appeared on the catwalk to the beat of our favorite Michael Jackson songs.

The Bikkembergs collection was inspired by the world of mountaineering, so the models were dressed in a way they could resist extreme weather conditions. They wore knitted sweaters and were wrapped in cashmere and mohair. Most of them had caps on their heads and wore thick gloves. They walked the runway on flip flops with thick socks in it and high boots with colored laces.

While his pants were nothing special, Dirk showed some good jackets. We loved a white trenchcoat and a black & white dinner jacket. Many jackets had fur collars and shoulders with leather accents.

Underneath these jackets some models wore a T-shirt with the image of an ice-bear, that vaguely resembled the popular Christopher Kane gorilla T-shirts.

At the end of the show a happy Dirk Bikkembergs waved to the audience. Although we thought his collection was pretty safe and predictable, at least he was having a blast.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Prada

The Prada-show was held in the designers ideal – virtual- world full of facts & figures, info-graphics and spaces. A world that seems  more appealing to young people who easily absorb all that information. It was the young Miucca was aiming to. The models strolled through the labyrinth of info in their sometimes childlike, polished clothes in bright camouflage-prints or bleached colors, beige and black. The collection had that typical vintage Prada touch – like an old seventies Vogue Homme – without being too dorky. The look was polished, almost synthetic, but the colors (yellow, rose, blue, beige and black) and fractal-camouflage added the right dose of reality and warmth.

Milan Catwalk Show fw2010: impression of prada

An impression of the stage at Prada, a labyrinth of information, facts & figures and choices regarding (virtual) daily life. The world of Prada, as the designer said.  The audience was seated in colored blocks or at a high tribune.

Milan Catwalk Fashion show fw2010: Roberto Cavalli

The Roberto Cavalli fashion show was a mix of several themes. There were military influences and Victorian details. Yet the show was also very Cavalli due to the use of jaguar prints.

One piece of clothing really stood out: tartan trousers, cut just under the knee. Those trousers came by in a few variations matched with large coats, metal mash tank tops or velour’s jackets. One metallic top had such a detailed pattern that the material resembled lace fabric.

Roberto Cavalli accentuated the men’s body in the right way with this collection; small at the bottom and wide at the top. So his trousers were tight and his big jackets had emphasized shoulders and XL collars with often, not one but two, fur layers.

The models wore shiny shoes in different shades. Their feminine metal belts had all sorts of frills and therefore were real showpieces.

The use of military as a theme may not have been quite renewing. Yet overall the Cavalli collection was creative and sophisticated.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Salvatore Ferragamo

After the sound of trampling hoofs the Ferragamo models slowly came on to the runway. The collection meant to present the elegance and pride of ‘a man on horseback’ and show his sophistication and casual look.

This resulted in great balanced outfits in warm natural colors like orange, chocolate brown, velvet and red.

The models wore loose-knitted scarfs with long fringes. They looked comfortable in some large knitted cardigans with leather belts on top of them.

Ferragamo’s trousers were striped and his thick jackets had the tartan look going on. A few good old toggle coats came by and we saw some dignified jackets with a smooth satin finishing.

Altogether the use of knitwear, leather and cashmere made up for a luxurious-looking Ferragamo collection.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Neil Barrett

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Roberto Cavalli

Woven leather pants with metallic mesh tops at Roberto Cavalli, topped with plaid shirts and rugged parkas.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010 : Emporio Armani

The Emporio Armani show for fall/winter 2010 opened with a few groups of models wearing different sets of sportswear. The clothes were often made out of sporty rubber and most models wore crazy bonnets to finish their looks.

After the sport-influenced clothes many suits came by. Those – pretty tight – suits mostly came in grey. Grey happened to be the main color of the collection, representing the landscape of the big city (asphalt grey, rainy day grey). Yet it was often mixed with neon-colors to add a techno edge to the outfits. The many zippers on those outfits added to that feeling.

Since the show was all about geometry, many suits had small checks or circles in black and white. Armani also presented some graphic knitwear.

The accessories for the show were hats (which the models carried on their backs), sunglasses and gloves. The models walked the catwalk on big shoes that matched the shades of grey of their outfits.

At the end Armani showed the results of his collaboration with Reebok. About thirty models came on to the runway at the same time, wearing nothing but some men’ s briefs and the new EA7/Reebok shoes. We have to admit, we had a hard time focusing on those shoes!

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Jil Sander

Raf Simons still tries to push the boundaries of traditional menswear at Jil Sander without being silly or looking forced. By using the best fabrics and skills of experienced tailors he manages to present a collection that’s far ahead of others and also very daring. I mean: who would put mobile pockets at jackets or lift the waistline? This was a tailored wardrobe injected with energy, with a concrete focus on shape and a forthlooking approach, using texture and construction to define a confident masculinity.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Dolce & Gabbana

Ennio  Morricone’s music added that special drama to the Dolce & Gabbana-show, which was a tribute to Giuseppe Tornatore’s new movie Baaria – nominated for this years Oscars. The collection seemed also a tribute to the label itself, which celebrates it’s 20-th anniversary this year. And that means heritage Sicilian workwear in black and white, lot’s of grey, dirty jeans and shoes, destroyed knits, tight T-shirts and old fashioned underwear. The longjohn is definitively back as a fashion-item. As is the laced up armyboot.

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