Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: John Galliano

The invites for John Galliano’s fashion show were folded into Chinese take out boxes. Yet Chinese influences were not the only influences Galliano chose for his fw2010 show.

According to the show notes with this collection Galliano evoked the multi-faceted personality and lifestyle of Sherlock Holmes. This lead to four different types of men appearing on the runway.

At first Galliano’s moustached detective men wore several layers of large trenchcoats. The coats had leather and fur accents and a checked pattern.

Than the classic, dandy boys came by, wearing tight suits, ties, corsets(!) and bowler hats.

Next we saw several warrior types in multi-colored satin outfits showing a great deal of their bronzed bodies. Again we saw bruises and blood on these models.

At the end Chinese-looking men strolled the runway in (floral printed) silk, transparent and embellished garments.

The finale was the perfect ending of a spectaculair show. Flames were thrown high in the air as John Galliano himself appeared.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Yves Saint Laurent

For his fall/winter collection Yves Saint Laurent decided to make a movie. The brand hired Bruce Weber to produce a short film called Ain’t Nothin’ Like The Real Thing. The film, which contained footage of the male YSL models posing and dancing, quickly made it’s way around the web, shortly after it’s release.

Unfortunately in the film Stefano Pilati’s new designs for YSL couldn’t be seen. Therefor he held a show.  He designed perfect trenchcoats with buttons at the back and checked blazers. In several looks he used a scarf as a belt on top of a coat. And some long tunic shirts were visible from under the jackets.

Yet Pilati’s jumpsuits and drop-crotch pants (popular in women’s fashion at the moment) were most impressive. The jumpsuits had a wide rounded neckline and all had a matching belt in the same fabric. The models wore them with T-shirts and jackets.

Gray and black were the main shades in this collection. And although Pilati used some female items, he managed to turn them into real menswear for next winter.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Comme des Garcons

The first models that came on the runway at the Comme des Garcons fashion show wore corduroy outfits and hoodies with fur, which covered a big part of their faces.

Then a few printed suits, mixed with shirts and matching waistcoats came by.  At the back of some jackets the shoulders and waists were accentuated by black contours.

The Comme des Garcons trend for fall seemed to be layering. Many outfits had two pairs of trousers, worn on top of each other. One of them was long, the other shorter and much wider.

Long cardigans were worn under some jackets as well. Even a fur coat was visible from under a small jacket.

Apart from a pair of bright pink socks and shoes the collection’s colors were very modest (and masculine).

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Givenchy

What would Jesus wear nowadays? If he shopped at Givenchy, he’d wear sandals, black stockings, a kilt, shorts and a gold crown of thorns necklace. The models at Givenchy looked like modern monks in their black and white clothes, black sandals (sometimes with, ugh, black shiny stockings), high collars and long coats. No laughs, no fun – this was serious man! But without all the fuzz, the basic collection is about a suit, a puffy jacket, a kilt, a white shirt and a long coat. Enough to mix endlessly.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Rick Owens

Rick Owens continued to search the depths of the dark side with a fall-winter 2010 menswear collection of gender-bending, space age-y designs ready for the apocalypse. Androgynous models with enviable cheekbones skulked down the catwalk in bulky, tie-waisted trenches in lacquered microfiber or wrinkly microfiber with stiff, standup necklines and drop-crotched harem pants. Some wore ribbed turtlenecks with knee-length flaps in the front and back, while others sported leather tank tops that left their backs bare.

Overall, the collection, with its asymmetrical hemlines and great floppy flaps of fabric, strayed away from his usual somber palette, regarding some looks in light gray or shiny off-white.

Menswearshows fw2010 Paris: Kanyeeeee!

Look who we spotted at the menswearshows, it’s Kanye West with his girlfriend Amber Rose wearing a …..dress?? The musician, fan fs style and fashion,  was visiting the shows of Louis Vuitton and Yves St. Laurent.

Life’s a gamble, meet Adam Kimmel

Adam Kimmel is an New York based designer, who put up a distracting presentation yesterday. Kimmels collection was an ode to the style and tastes of the painter George Condo. The blazers, vests and capes with roulette prints had a plush, jaded, man-about-town feel. The presentation, in a gallery with gaming tables and low lights  – the gamblers (models wearing molded heads with twisted and ghastly expressions and clown-like ears and hair) were as real as anything else. The heads, based on Condo’s paintings,  did dominate the scene, but most of the clothes will look just fine without them.

Paris Catwalk Fashion fw2010: Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe reinterpreted the Jazz Age and made it to a fine collection. He gave the tailoring a twist— double-breasted suits illuminated with red stitching — and then meld formal and casual, which has become the season’s major trend. Watanabe made that mix more than putting a nylon parka over a suit or teaming a tailored jacket with jeans. He showed inserts of leather in suits and made the sportswear as powerful as the more formal pieces. The designer also put in another strong story: the revival of the camel coat.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Dries van Noten

Dries van Noten knows his way with menswear, with just that little touch of eccentricity and panache.

The Belgium designer focused at graphic details, think black (or red) and white stripes, piping, mixing checks and stripes and he took inspiration from the English jockeys. From dressed down sweat-styled trousers and bold electric blue separates to contrasting inserts, Van Noten’s man proved to be confident and stylish.

Streetfashion Paris fw2010

What are you wearing during the Menswear Fashionweek? Your Burberry-boots, your latest D&G-vest or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashion-weeks we refresh our streetwear-category regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris.

Pictures by Muriel Schouten

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