Emporio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The collection Emporio Armani sent out this morning had an industrial theme, with lots of long coats, black and greys and a mix of fabrics and textures.

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The Bottega Veneta collection was a relaxed mix of formal and informal wear, with cozy knits, wrinkled and washed fabrics, layers and color. Besides black and grey, Tomas Maier spoiled his customers with red, mustard-yellow, green and blue. Just what a man needs during the day.

Burberry Prorsum Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Why does a Burberry-show always make me cry? Most of the time it’s because of the sensitive soundtrack, the melancholy that drips from songs like Bang Bang sung by Cliff Richard or You don’t have to say I love you by Dusty Springfield. I know, It sounds silly but when I hear those songs and I see a good collection I cannot stop myself from swallowing those tears.  And this was a great collection totally focused at coats. Christopher Bialey went away from the militairy stuff he did send out a few seasons now and went for a more colorful and normal, daily theme like the British weather.

“We British, we are obsessed by the weather, and I wanted to explore that, and to celebrate the coat,” Burberry’s chief creative  said after the show. This outerwear, inspired by Burberry ads from the early Sixties, ranged from the sculptural to the streamlined. Tweeds, herringbones, laquered leather, camel and fur were used for car coats, partly in dark brown and black, but the sun breaked through with the reds, yellow, orange, blue and tangerine. The bold blanket checks looked daring and fresh as did the more sculptural coats from stiffened wools. After such a refreshing collection, the audience didn’t bother the showering rain at the end of the show.

Streetfashion Milan Menswear FW2011 Day 1

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Jil Sander-shoes, your latest Dolce & Gabbana-suit or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Menswear Fashion Week.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Raf Simons keeps on pushing the color-theme at Jil Sander. After two strong, minimalistic springcollections for him and her where he surprised the in all black dressed fashioncrowd with vivid colors and white T-shirts, his winter 2011 collection seems more in balance. He started with a dark suit, which actually was a mix of purple and black, combined with a shirt and sweater. But soon the colors changed into yellow, white, pink, orange and electric blue for total outfits and subtler mixes.

Simons replaced the mens shirt by T-shirts in shiny, bubbly fabrics and presented them in layers which added more volume and a fresh, modern touch to the minimal style.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

After a few strong menswear-seasons with the focus at Italian sartorial craftmanschip, Dolce & Gabbana moved on. They looked at Britain and 80’s style-icon Bryan Ferry, who’s slick style of shiny suits inspired a whole generation of young men back then. I guess Bryan Ferry was happy he grew out of that 80’s style of short, slightly squared jackets, wide lapels and tapered pants while watching the show in a slim suit and accompanied by two of his sons (who looked very smart too). It’s a big step from the handsome and streamlined Italian style we’re used to see at Dolce & Gabbana.

But maybe it’s just a matter of time. The look must seem bright new to a younger generation fed up with skinny pants and jackets. The new silhouette is more square and non fitted, jackets are much shorter and pants got low crotches. For the streetwise styling the designduo looked at British ska’s, with their hats, black and white, suspenders, short pants and shoes. The formal suit was mixed, a jacket with jeans, the pants with striped sweater, velvet with denim, faux fur with wool, pinstripes with pied de poule. There was even a hint of color next to the black and grey, red and bordeaux played a major role. The collection deserved the name Eccentric Tailoring –  only for those who dare.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Costume National’s designer Ennio Capasa tried to mix traditional tailoring and fabric/construction research with a rebellious core. The result was less surprising as it sounds, because this is what he does every season. Experimenting with clean cuts, jackets without seams assembled by laser technique and a synthesis between formal and sportswear. Of course in signature black, with hints of res, royal blue, dark green and salmon for sweaters in soft mohair.

What I liked the most were the coats and jackets made of wool with leather sleeves, or made of fabric with knitted sleeves. But in the end it was a reset of ideas. Daring was a knitted tuxedo. And this season Capasa finally got rid of all the wite shirts and ties. In the name of a creative rebellion.

Ermenegildo Zegna Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

In a watery cold Milan the menswear fashionweek(end) took off with two classics: Corneliani and Ermenegildo Zegna. The design-team at Zegna seemed captured by China and mixed oriental themes with a more classic tailoring. Business suits had a sporty attitude thanks to the use of tweed-effects and utility touches. The silhouette was defined by straight shouldered three-button suits and jackets, as well as streamlined high-cuff trousers. The touch of China was visible in high collared Mao-jackets, bamboo-green, reds and shiny silk fabrics with a vintage patina. There was a slightly military touch to it thanks to army-belts, little leather pockets, combat-type boots and big shearling coats.

Item of the season will be the iPad-cases, as a sleeve or a shoulderbag. Almost every label is presenting one or more models in their collection.

It was a Live D fashion show, created in collaboration with director James Lima – who was a visual consultant on the film Avatar. Backstage models were filmed in the ‘Green Room’ using cutting edge filmtechnology. Front of house the images were projected on a giant screen in real time against a filmed backround, coinciding with the models arriving on the runway. The show unfolded both live and on screen  – as if the models were walking off the screen into the real dimension.

Only Haider Acker-wo-mann

Haider Ackermann successfully launched his menswear line last season, but has already decided to quit it. For now there will be no more men’s clothing from the Belgium label.

A spokesperson from BVBA 32, the company that operates and produces Haider Ackermann’s collections said: ‘The decision to present a one-season collection was a creative decision. Haider wanted to underline the image he made for his women’s line with the man at her side. The men’s collection will be added again at the time Haider wants to and it will not be linked to a season. Creativity cannot be forced into a time frame. It is the emotion of the moment being translated to a collection, which is presented and sold to retailers who believe in creativity as such.’

Could it be that Haider Ackermann needs his time to prepare for his new job at Chanel? Last week in Numero magazine Karl Lagerfeld named Ackermann as his potential successor at Chanel. Yet we doubt Karl is leaving Chanel any time soon.  

(Vogue)

Christopher Kane for men

Christopher Kane will soon launch his first menswear line at Dover Street Market. The designer already sold a capsule collection of T-shirts there and will now expand this line, thanks to its success.
Kane created sweaters, cardigans, black leather suit jackets, T-shirts and sporty leather shorts.
The collection arrives in Dover Street Market early December.

(Vogue)

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