Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Young, old, dark, white, red haired, grey, bold, long haired, shaves bearded; the models at Yohji Yamamoto were as diverse as can be. The clothes however were scaled down a bit from what we’ve seen before.

The models looked neat in their duo colored looks. Details like a poncho wrapped around their shoulders, colorful ties popping out from under a suit jacket and diverse hats giving them an extra elegant touch.

Coats played a central role in Yohji’s fall collection appearing in many forms, from militaristic, to tuxedo-ish, and from an asymmetric black version to a woolen red example with fur on the elbows(!?). Eater you love it or hat it, but at least Yohji provided more than enough options.

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Viktor&Rolf’s Monsieur is a modern gentleman. As ever, he’s a hybrid of classic intellectual and ravishing style icon.  Viktor&Rolf’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection was inspired by this gentleman at home – taking cues from luxurious interior design treatments and translating them to apparel. The enhanced shoulder structure of silhouettes gives subtle reference to Viktor&Rolf’s female Atomic Bomb Collection – in a masculine rendition.

Outerwear and suiting continue to be iconic staples in the Monsieur wardrobe. Suiting evolves for this gentleman with refined silk tuxedo jackets paired with nappa leather trousers – an unexpected edge to classical eveningwear.  Outerwear is rich offering a range set to olives, burgundy, burnt mauve and deep emerald greens. Pieces are composed of unconstructed overcoats in suri and alpaca wool, cotton nylon parkas sleek in fit, cashmere wool military trenches in olive and black framed with shaved beaver and jacket variations with unique shaved and printed shearling treatments. Knitwear is versatile and functional as lighter outerwear – a coral reversible zipper-front sweater in shearling and crepe wool is a highlight.

 

DSquared Catwalk Fashion School Milan FW2012

High School was the setting at the DSquared show and the model acted like little schoolboys, smoking on the runway and throwing paper planes at teacher. A retro classroom was set at the end of the runway. The models tried to behave like rebels, but the collection was far from that. Just DSquared-clothes: distressed, low-rise denim, fitted biker jackets and college-style shirts. But a great theme to play with. And there were actually some great outfits and garments, like the mohair & angora Fair Isle sweaters, a nice tweed car coat and some fitted suits.

Pringle of Scotland Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Backstage designer Alistair Carr told the press he didn’t want to be afraid of the brand’s heritage. This lead to chunky tartan sweaters and lots of knit elements. The knitwear was worn with perfect pleated pants, jersey leggings and even a few pairs of leather motor pants popped up.

At Pringle too, the turtleneck made an appearance. Yet Carr let his models wear them underneath a thick knitted sweater instead of a shirt, like the other menswear brands did.

It was quite a pure and simple collection; some good basics were presented in the mix with the more outspoken pieces. The color palette might have been more coherent (it formed a combination of warm autumn shades (orange, red, camel) and cool winter tones (grey, blue, pink)), yet there were more than enough solid items for every man’s fall/winter wardrobe.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Despite the angry looks on their faces Missoni’s models looked nice and cosy as they entered the runway. Their tight fitted knitted jumpers and cardigans made you wanna introduce them to your grandma.

Checked pants, striped sweaters, argyle vests and jumpers with the fashion labels’ popular zigzag motif all passed by in a beautiful color palette of autumn shades.

We do feel Angela Missoni could have added a little more spice to the collection. Yet luckily some sportive parkas, body warmers and nylon jackets gave it a little more edge.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Again, powerdressing was the theme of a collection. And what a collection. Miuccia Prada said goodbye to all the cheerful bold colors and prints of last season and embraced the powerful men. To the press she described the collection as a riff on powerful men, and how fashion can telegraph authority, might or supremacy. Clothing is a tool of power and a way to express male vanity, she said. Yes, we knew that already.

Dressed in severe coats reminding of Eastern Bloc military dress, the models and actors Willem Dafoe, Tim Roth, Adrien Brody and Gary Oldman walked a massive, carpeted space. The first outfit set a military tone: a smart dark coat over a white turtleneck, slim pants and gleaming dress shoes. Belted coats in lightweight wool played a major part and they were often decorated with badges over the heart. Colors were of course a bit off beat, mustard, purple, grey and black – and the fabrics looked vintage.

Check out the video of the show below.

John Varvatos Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Varvatos’ show was an ode to the city of New York. In a film, played as a background to the show, all NYC landmarks popped up, from the Chrysler Building tot the Statue of Liberty. The runway looked like a regular NYC street and felt raw and real at the same time (just like the clothes).

The models looked streetwise in clothes which had just the right amount of fashionable detailing. Washed of tones in leather were followed by woolen grey and black and scruffy streetstyles changed into a few slick evening looks.

We’re not sure yet about the enormous shearling collars, but those leather sleeves will be a definite hit.

Salvatore Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

You don’t have to tell designer Massimiliano Giornetti anything about power dressing, he knows what he is doing at Ferragamo. The fall-collection was powerful in all it’s classic, elegant tailoring:  suits and coats were strong and sharp, the ingredients soft and often velvet-like. Tweeds, bold herringbone  and speckled wools for outerwear, with colored velvet and moiré silks for evening jackets. Footwear stood out, especially the two toned dress shoes.
The colors were a mix of rusts and berry tones often mixing together different shades on looks through to the accessories.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

The tiger stripes, leopard spots and croc details (Cavalli’s signature animal details) were still all there. Yet Daniele Cavalli presented them in a more subtle way than Roberto would probably have done.

The boys walking the show looked tough in their leather jackets, statement coats and capes. They rocked suit jackets with croc patterns, whole looks in feather print, tiger printed blouses and chevron patterned coats. One of them even got away with wearing a poncho at the very end of the show.

Besides the common grey and black, we see so much of every fall/winter collection, Daniele added a some looks in yellow, pink and blue/violet. A nice cheerful touch to a collection, which was already a clear stand out.

Burberry Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

For his fall 2012 Burberry menswear-collection Christopher Baily tried to mix the British City with the British Country-style. That led into a dapper gentleman in a tailored suit, an umbrella with a hand painted handle and a warm, sometimes bulky outdoor coat.  The overall result was polite and charming, traditional and familiar. But sometimes also a bit dull and predictable.

Form-fitting tailored suits played the major role in this collection, some of which came in plum, olive or teal velvet — and others made from herringbone or tweed wool. For a more formal feel, Bailey put velvet collars onto tweed trenches and topcoats. The outdoor-feeling was given by all those typical outdoorsy sports-gear like fishing vests, quilted or not, shooting jackets in leather or suede, chunky sweaters and cardigans.Luckily the polka dot ties and shirts, appliqué fox heads on knits and leather gloves with punkish gold studs gave that typical Burberry edge to the clothes. It’s all in the details eventually.

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