Streetfashion Milan Menswear SS2013 Day 2

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Jil Sander-shoes, your latest Prada-shirt or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style.

Bottega Veneta Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Tomas Maier took Seventies California as his source of inspiration. The result: loose, pullover tunic tops in buttery brown, gray, and pale olive. Some had  lace-up details at the neck or hippie fringes at the bottom. It all had a relaxed and luxurious feeling. The crumpled suits and lightweight coats looked great, especially in those dusty colors like red, cement, teal and taupe.
More structured and slim–fitting suits looked as if they were stained with spilt coffee or tea at first glance, but it was actually a faded flowerprint. Those flowerprints came also back as an all over pattern.

Ferragamo Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Designer Massimiliano Giornetti was inspired by L.A.’s Pop Art scene in the seventies and the work of artist David Hockney. Result: lots of clashing bright colors like orange, spearmint, lemon-yellow, red and pastel blues and greens. The style had a crisp, sporty vibe.
The colors were splashed with  Seventies-style belted car coats, lightweight cotton blazers with contrast piping, carrot pants, double-sided cotton trenches, and leather sneakers. It was an all optimistic collection, but the colorblocking was sometimes a bit too overwhelming.

Versace Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Well, that was quite a flashback at Versace yesterday! The collection and models Donatella sent out reminded us of those good old Versace days with beautiful stallions, gladiator-boxer types with blonde Adonis hair and muscles. The show kicked off with a parade of shorts and briefs from the house’s new swimwear and underwear collection. O la la!
The Versace man is not afraid of a bit excess, he wears macho medallion jewelry and isn’t shy of flashy fabrics. He is part Rocky, part Elvis and part Mr. T. The collection included shiny double-breasted suits with metallic shirts and ties; floral denim; sweet pastels  from Miami; broderie anglaise effects on jackets and shirts, and sleeveless jackets with superhero shoulders. This was masculinity and camp to the max.

Burberry Prorsum Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Christopher Bailey sent out a rich, chic and sophisticated collection yesterday, with focus at shiny fabriucs and sartorial finish. The show opened with metallic silk in   purple, blue, green, fuchsia, and orange. Bailey worked his metallics into shirts, trenches and onto the collars of cabans and car coats. Another important part of the collection were  bubble-shaped, multi-toned bomber jackets. On the models’ feet dark socks and flashy metallic sandals.
The color palette was inspired by one of Bailey’s favorite artists — David Hockney — while the geometric prints found their origins at the Bloomsbury Group. To temper the vivid colored metallics, Baily came up with slim-fitting and sober suits, in deep navy seersucker or cotton.   Bailey often layered the shiny with the matte, or put a dark, slim-fitting jacket over a long, loose printed top.

Costume National Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan ss2013

Utilitarian style dominated  at Costume National. Sticking to the brand’s signature urban and punk vibe, Ennio Capasa played with volumes and layers resulting into a young and sophisticated collection.
The sharp look of a sleeveless leather safari jacket was softened by fluid baggy pants. There were also  deconstructed tailored suits with loose shoulders.

Jil Sander Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan ss2013

The most anticipated show this menswear-season: the come-back show of designer Jil Sander for her own label. Looking at the collection it seemed Sander said goodbye to the experimental designs of Raf Simons and went back to purism. The collection was crisp, graphic and youthful. Jil Sander opened her show with a sleeveless navy coat over a white, short-sleeved nerd shirt and shorts, setting her main agenda: playing on proportion, and a mix of formal and sporty.
Sander gave her pristine silhouettes a generous mix of classic and vivid colors, from long-line tan suits spliced with white panels, to boxy garage jackets in an Yves Klein blue. There were prints, too: polka dots and Mondrian-esque stripes.

Summertrend Men 2012: The Bomberjacket

Who would’ve thought that the traditional varsity bomber jacket would be a huge trend? For summer 2012 designers reinvented this particular and not always undisputed jacket, once designed for World War I pilots and later worn by the mavericks and cool scooter boys, and  gave it a whole new identity.  They turned it into something modern and high fashion and into one of the most important items when it comes to your summer look.

The bomber jacket comes in all shapes, sizes, colors and prints. We’ve seen them very loose and casual, to more pumped up and cool. From bold colored to kitsch prints and from high school cool to Italian slick, and sometimes they even looked chic in a way. It’s even possible to make this oh-so-cool and mannish jacket sexy and elegant, which makes it wearable for women too (Carine Roitfeld wore it).

And we haven’t  only spotted this sturdy jacket many times on the catwalk, they’re also turning up in the streets. Of course Kanye West has one, mr cool himself. Because eventually these jackets have something magical, they make you look and feel cool from the first moment you put it on, even when it’s bright pink or covered with a bold print. And who doesn’t want to be cool?

Eva Dusch

Summertrend Men 2012: The Blues

Oh boy oh boy, we’re having the blues this summer. Well, not literally of course. But for this season blue, the stereotypical boy’s color, is the absolute it-color for men when it comes to their summer wardrobe. Acne, Bottega Veneta, D&G, Viktor&Rolf, Versace, Hermès, Yves Saint Laurent, they all showed us blue on the catwalk. And the good thing is: you have a lot to choose from.

In Milan and Paris we’ve seen the whole spectrum of blue coming by, from very soft and light to ultra dark en mysterious: azure, indigo, ultra marine. Highly popular is the monochromatic look, with a key-role for the suit. The navy suit has became a real wardrobe essential. But designers seem to want to reinvent the classic suit and are experimenting with all the different possibilities and playing with new elements and details, which results in mixing all shades of blue, prints (checks!) and fabrics.

Not really into this monochromatic look? Too much blue for you? No problem, because also two-toned looks are doing well, like blues with a touch of orange, white or with a nice print, like we’ve seen at Dries van Noten and Paul Smith. Because not only is blue a very powerful and beautiful color, but multifunctional too. You can mix it with almost any color, from brights to naturals.

It has never been more fun having the blues, don’t you think?

Eva Dusch

Summertrend Men 2012: Urban Safari

This is one of those trends that we have been seeing for a few seasons now – for both men and women – but knows some small changes every time. And also for this summer many designers seemed to be inspired by the nations of Africa. They are taking us on a trip through the Savanna, North Africa or the wilderness, but they won’t let us go down there without some fine pieces of clothing. After all, you always go in style. And this style defines itself as safari mixed with a touch of urban and western luxury.

The color palette consists of shades like khaki, olive green, white, deep orange and sand colors. And while going into the wilderness you need some comfy and airy clothes, like linen blouses, slouchy cargo’s, multi-pocket shorts, rolled-up pants, long dip-dyed scarves (or those beautiful one with the blue-red plaids at Louis Vuitton), ropy sweaters, raffia bags or hats and some leather sandals. The luxurious touch comes more in terms of animal prints and leather.

And if you’re daring enough and not afraid to show your feminine side as a man, you can even wrap some cloths around your waist. Look who’s the king of the jungle now…

Eva Dusch

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